Well, I must say I was not expecting as much feedback on this process as I received. Thanks to all!
A couple things of note that may help clarify questions/confusion about my methodology. I had three separate negatives loaded into three separate, identical enlargers, Omega LPL 4500II VCCE model. The photos were part of a time-lapse series I took of snow accumulating on the ground. The camera remained in the same place throughout the sequence (to the best of my ability with a tripod; I did have to take the camera in between exposures because the cold was affecting the mechanics of the Hasselblad 500C/M).
My intention was to show the snow accumulating in three sections of the print. I first took a plain sheet of Masa Rice paper, an inexpensive paper I've used for cyanotype printing before, cut to size, and loaded it into the first easels. With the enlarger heads located at the same height and focused well, I sketched "landmarks" of the scene onto the paper, namely the outline of the shepherd's hook and fence in the background. I then moved that paper between the other two identical easels and adjusted the position of the easels to make sure they were aligned with one another. Once everything is aligned, I make sure not to bump anything accidentally, and move one sheet of darkroom paper between each of the easels/enlargers, exposing only a region of each negative to the paper.
Please let me know if I'm not communicating the process well, but that's the gist of it.
I felt that moving paper between enlargers rather than moving negatives between an enlarger would lead to more precise registrations, as suggested by MattKing.
It is easier to register a piece of paper than it is to register a negative - the paper is larger.
Multiple enlargers make sense, particularly if you are working with negatives of different formats when you are combining them into a single print.
Multiple enlargers are good as well if you are pre or post flashing.
Disclaimer: most of the equipment I used in this process belongs to my University.
Uelsmann's approach was much more surrealistic, attempting to create dream-like scenes that are very distant from reality. I was attempting something more "realistic," if you will, using the white borders between sections to establish the separations between time, while maintaining the same location.
I welcome any and all feedback. Hopefully this helped to clarify my method so far.