new guy with 35mm

[Xmas]

hi

please try this site
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/aboutus/page.asp?n=31


Noel

 

[elekm]

You should shoot with both lenses with some 200 or 400 speed film. Then decide if they meet your expectations. Often, you will read someone's opinion about a lens, saying it's great, average or crap. But I've always felt that it's best to test yourself, because how you use a lens might accentuate its strengths.

For example, there continues to be much discussion about which Olympus Zuiko f/1.4/50mm lens is best. And it all to do with the serial number. There has been a continuing discussion for years about which Carl Zeiss Planar for the the Rolleiflex TLR is best. Or the Xenotar vs. Planar.

I think there is a similar discussion about the Nikkor f/2.5/105mm lens, and the Leica 21mm lens for the M-mount, and backfocusing or frontfocusing of certain other lenses. The list is endless.

I would just shoot the lens without any preconceived notions and draw your own conclusion. What I mean is don't go out with the lens thinking, "Why am I doing this? This lens is crap."

Shoot it, and see if you like the results.

 

[Hatchetman]

I would get the 50mm offered above and stick with that for a while. Quality will be great even at wide apertures. Send film to a top-notch lab like NCPS and get quality scans done. Why? So you can see what you did right/wrong and so you know what the image quality is supposed to be. You will never learn what you are doing with low quality scans. It will look bad and you will be disappointed all around.

You can develop your own easily and rather cheaply. Just find the Ilford pamphlet on-line and use their materials. BUT then what? You probably don't have a good scanner or the technical ability to use it properly. So you need to set up a darkroom to make your own prints! Learning to do all this stuff is just too much at one time in my opinion.

 

[Alastor]

i'm kinda upset, i had two rolls of film not work for me, i couldn't tell if they never gripped the rewinder or what i'm not sure if it took any pictures on two rolls

 

[Charles Wass]

I refered to the bayonet type as in a post above the new versions were adviced. The new version is a true bayonet concerning handling, the older Version is a breech lock.

To refer to "true bayonet" mount and then change your claim to "concerning handling" is worse than misleading, especially to those, who must be many, who do not understand the difference between the two totally different types of mount, the breech lock rarely being seen these days from any manufacturer. The late FD type is a breech lock just as much as all the earlier R, FL and original FD types. Basing naming of a mount on handling is unhelpful. It could lead to newcomers believing the two versions of the lens are incompatible.

Informed users such as those on forums like FD Forum and the FD forum on Photonet generally avoid such confusion by using the clear expressions "chrome ring, original FD, old FD or simply FD" versus "late FD, new FD, second FD or simply nFD/FDn".

If there is such a thing as a "true bayonet mount" it must be the military coupling from which the mount takes its name.

 

[Hatchetman]

i'm kinda upset, i had two rolls of film not work for me, i couldn't tell if they never gripped the rewinder or what i'm not sure if it took any pictures on two rolls

Very frustrating I'm sure. What exactly happened? You sent them to a lab and they came back blank?

 

[AgX]

To refer to "true bayonet" mount and then change your claim to "concerning handling" is worse than misleading, especially to those, who must be many, who do not understand the difference between the two totally different types of mount, the breech lock rarely being seen these days from any manufacturer. The late FD type is a breech lock just as much as all the earlier R, FL and original FD types. Basing naming of a mount on handling is unhelpful. It could lead to newcomers believing the two versions of the lens are incompatible.

Informed users such as those on forums like FD Forum and the FD forum on Photonet generally avoid such confusion by using the clear expressions "chrome ring, original FD, old FD or simply FD" versus "late FD, new FD, second FD or simply nFD/FDn".

If there is such a thing as a "true bayonet mount" it must be the military coupling from which the mount takes its name.

This is a thread directed at a newcomer. And as such he most likely does not know about the inner mechanics of a lens nor is likely interested in it. And a newcomer cannot make anything from "Chrome ring " versus "nFD/FDn" Thus read my reply in the context of handling. And in this I am perfectly right.

 

[Alastor]

alright so i got my first two rolls back from walmart, and i have to say i have a huge problem with my silver camera(or the lens?) every photo is underexposed cause i had no idea what i was doing but on each side of the picture its yellow, i will upload a picture of it once i get them transfered but on another side, my black camera with foam problems and a 35-70 zoom lens works perfect! i got some decent first pictures to share and see how i did

 

[Alastor]

going out this weekend to take some nice shots with my new 50mm lens of an old dam and park (thanks again to (there was a url link here which no longer exists) for the free lens!)


Also guys silver camera pictures turned out horrible underexposed and light leaks, so i'm going to stick with the black AE-1 for the time being, if ANY one can help ID what is wrong with the silver camera please dont hesitate to send me a message i have 24 pictures to show you to give you an idea of what it is doing, hell it may be my fault but id rather get some opinions on it first, and if any of my pictures above have flaws feel free to pick them out, i really love the cat photo as i think it looks awesome so dont destroy my love for it haha

 

[elekm]

When a side of the photo is yellow, that usually is an indication of a light leak. Check the negative.

If you purchase any camera that was made between the 1960s and 1980s, you almost certainly will need to replace your light seals.

Open the camera and run your finger along the back. If you get a black line or it feels sticky, replace those light seals.

 

[Alastor]

here is an embarrassing photo i took, ashamed it came out so bad but it gives an idea of how bad the silver camera is, i believe the black AE-1 is fine for the time being though so not all hope is lost

 

[Alan Gales]

Well i didnt find a thread topic for introductions but id figured id include it in my first question, i just started photography and figured what the heck i'll try 35mm and try to get decent at it, i bought a canon AE-1 for 20$ with a vivitar 35-105mm lens and found out that lens is not very good, so i bought another AE-1 for 30$ with a 35-70mm 1:4 lens, so total i did not spend very much money to get started and the first AE-1 is completely restored it looks brand new,

Well my question is what lenses should i get? accessories that are good to have and other odds and ins for starters? i have yet to get any film developed trying to find the best place to get it done at (another problem i am having) and trying to find a place to restore/repair the black AE-1 in the below picture, it needs foam replaced,

any help would be awesome and thank you!

Welcome to APUG.

Back in the day I worked for Venture while in high school and college. Venture was a discount store like Target. I sold tons of brand new AE1's and later AE1 Program cameras. They were very well made and the returns for defective cameras was very small compared to how many sold.

Vivitar made a Series 1 lens which was the benchmark when it was introduced. It was quite a bit better than the camera manufacturer's zooms of the day. The regular Vivitar's were not so great. I owned one for my first 35mm camera, a Canon AV1. My 50mm was way sharper.

If you don't own a tripod buy one. It's a photographer's best friend. A couple other best friends are a lens hood and cable release. For filters buy a polarizing screen and a couple neutral density filters. Start with a 50mm lens and shoot lots of film through it. Bring a tablet and keep notes. That's how I started. Enjoy yourself. Film is a lot of fun and you just can't get the same "look" with digital.

 

[Alastor]

i do indeed have to buy a good tripod this weekend, and i want to buy a good flash, even though i have one i think its about met its match (age) and i'm just going to go crazy and take a bunch of pictures and see how they turn out, i think that's going to be the best way to figure it out!

 

[AgX]

Back in the day I worked for Venture while in high school and college. Venture was a discount store like Target. I sold tons of brand new AE1's and later AE1 Program cameras. They were very well made and the returns for defective cameras was very small compared to how many sold.

Alastor,
ALL black foam rubber seals of any brand of camera that old are defective. That means they either have deteriorated and got stuck at the oposing side, or at least have lost their flexibilitiy and will stay compressed when touched.
So even in the latter case chances are very high that leakage will occur during use.

In the time before exchanging those seals you might seal the backdoor at all four edges with black tape after loading the film. That is unhandy but should be solve your problem.

 

[Alastor]

i am planning to send the black camera off for a complete restore and refurbish if any one would know a place i can get this done or any one who will do it, and a price range, as i like the black one much better, also no one has commented on the pictures i took if any one would give them a look over and see where i need to improve or if there any good please let me know!

 

[Charles Wass]

This is a thread directed at a newcomer. And as such he most likely does not know about the inner mechanics of a lens nor is likely interested in it. And a newcomer cannot make anything from "Chrome ring " versus "nFD/FDn" Thus read my reply in the context of handling. And in this I am perfectly right.

I have just returned to this thread after an absence. It should be perfectly clear that my post was not directed at a newcomer, but at you and the misleading nonsence that you posted and persist in.

 

[AgX]

Thruth shall decide.

 

[Alan Gales]

going out this weekend to take some nice shots with my new 50mm lens of an old dam and park (thanks again to (there was a url link here which no longer exists) for the free lens!)


Also guys silver camera pictures turned out horrible underexposed and light leaks, so i'm going to stick with the black AE-1 for the time being, if ANY one can help ID what is wrong with the silver camera please dont hesitate to send me a message i have 24 pictures to show you to give you an idea of what it is doing, hell it may be my fault but id rather get some opinions on it first, and if any of my pictures above have flaws feel free to pick them out, i really love the cat photo as i think it looks awesome so dont destroy my love for it haha

Well if you have light leaks most likely you just need the seals replaced.

As for the underexposure, take a meter reading with the silver camera and then take a reading of the exact same scene with the black camera. Your light meter in the silver camera could be bad.

 

[snapguy]

A 50mm lens is a good place to start. Use it a while and you will be saying to yourself "I wish it was a little wider" in this situation or "I wish it would get the subject up closer." Then you can go to a zoom or a wide angle or telephoto prime lens. It is all the learning process.