new guy with 35mm

Alastor · Dec 13, 2013

Well i didnt find a thread topic for introductions but id figured id include it in my first question, i just started photography and figured what the heck i'll try 35mm and try to get decent at it, i bought a canon AE-1 for 20$ with a vivitar 35-105mm lens and found out that lens is not very good, so i bought another AE-1 for 30$ with a 35-70mm 1:4 lens, so total i did not spend very much money to get started and the first AE-1 is completely restored it looks brand new,

Well my question is what lenses should i get? accessories that are good to have and other odds and ins for starters? i have yet to get any film developed trying to find the best place to get it done at (another problem i am having) and trying to find a place to restore/repair the black AE-1 in the below picture, it needs foam replaced,

any help would be awesome and thank you!

thegman · Dec 13, 2013

Maybe get a prime lens or two, generally, smaller, lighter and faster than zooms, with better resolution to boot. Not to say there are not good zooms, there certainly are, but good primes are much easier to come by.

Depending on what sort of photography you do will dictate focal length, but I think a 28mm (or wider) and and 50mm covers most occasions.

For developing, if I was in the USA, I'd probably give www.precision-camera.com a go, never used them but it seems their scanning is good. I'd probably be tempted to try out NCPS too. I'm not in the USA, and have never used these labs, but they seem to have a pretty good reputation.

Which accessories are good to have will depend on your type of photography, but for me, a tripod is a must have, get a decent one and it'll last forever.

Tom1956 · Dec 13, 2013

A 50mm normal lens. I see you live in NC. Go to Wallyworld and get some Fuji 200 color for cheap, and take it to CVS when you're done. It'll be kinda grainy, but still good shots. For B&W, all CVS carries is TX for 10 dollars a roll. Heck with that noise. 10 dollars, my foot. Use one of these advertisers on here for B&W developing, if you can't do it yourself. Somebody around here can develop a decent roll of film, I'd hope.

zanxion72 · Dec 13, 2013

Get a 28mm FDn for street/landscape photography and a 50mm FDn for portraiture. The first one is easy to focus for street candids and landscapes and bright enough with the 2.8 going for about 30 euros. The second one, cheap too at 1.8, delivers great photos especially after 4.5, and is great for portraits and photos where the wide angle distortion of the 28mm is unwanted.
The foam is easy to do it by yourself. Get some sheet of open cell foam (1mm thick) cut it with some scissors and stick it accordingly. Also, check for the mirror cushion absorption foam near the focusing screen. If it looks deteriorated and/or sticky, replace it with a band of closed cell foam (2-3mm thick).

They both look awesome, lots of envy for the black one!

Alastor · Dec 13, 2013

Not sure why it keeps deleting my posts hopefully this one sticks, some of the stuff that came with the cameras i bought are pretty cool the first one that is in mint shape, came with OEM manuals in perfect shape for both the camera and the lens, a tiffen polarizer filter, 2nd camera came with a flash, and a roll of moovue 400 b&w film and a hoya skybright 1B filter, also will this 35-70 lens do me alright till i get used to the camera and learn it? id hate to put more money into another lens right now the specs are 35-70 F=1:4

Peltigera · Dec 13, 2013

If you have a working camera (or two) and a usable lens, I wouldn't worry about any more kit until you have got several rolls of film under your belt. You will know what lenses to get when the lenses you have will not allow you to take the pictures you want to.

Personally, I use a 50mm prime and a 90mm prime for about 90% of my photography. Other people would have no use at all for those two lenses. It really does depend on your style and genre.

AgX · Dec 13, 2013

Some FD lenses only changed in the barrel when the new true bayonet was introduced. So for these lenses the choice between new and old is mainly in the comfort of changing lenses. (true bayonet versus breech-lock).

Jim Taylor · Dec 13, 2013

zanxion72 said:
Get a 28mm FDn for street/landscape photography and a 50mm FDn for portraiture. The first one is easy to focus for street candids and landscapes and bright enough with the 2.8 going for about 30 euros. The second one, cheap too at 1.8, delivers great photos especially after 4.5, and is great for portraits and photos where the wide angle distortion of the 28mm is unwanted.
The foam is easy to do it by yourself. Get some sheet of open cell foam (1mm thick) cut it with some scissors and stick it accordingly. Also, check for the mirror cushion absorption foam near the focusing screen. If it looks deteriorated and/or sticky, replace it with a band of closed cell foam (2-3mm thick).

They both look awesome, lots of envy for the black one!

I totally agree with zanxion - My AE-1 is one of my favourite 35mm SLR's. Both the 28mm 2.8 and the 50mm 1.8 are cracking lenses. I would certainly recommend you grab a couple of primes (28mm and 50mm) as others have recommended and just play with 'em - you won't be disappointed!

It is easy to replace the seals and cushions on this camera. If you dig further and need the repair manual, it's available FOC from a number of online sources (I think Butkus has it listed).

I have sentimental attachment to mine, but in reality the bodies are so cheap you can easily replace them if it's FUBAR.

Jeff Kubach · Dec 13, 2013

Canon FD system is very good. Check out KEH for used lens and I think they might put foam in your camera for you.

Jeff

Xmas · Dec 13, 2013

try this site
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=24
you should be able to get lots of kit for free or second hand if you join a photo club from people going digital

Sirius Glass · Dec 13, 2013

Welcome to APUG

Charles Wass · Dec 13, 2013

So for these lenses the choice between new and old is mainly in the comfort of changing lenses. (true bayonet versus breech-lock).

All Canon FL and FD lenses are breech lock. How do you suppose they could make the change between the old style with chrome ring and the later type while maintaining complete compatibility? The only difference is in how the breech lock is operated.

Canon's first bayonet mount for SLRs was the EF for the EOS cameras.

2gman · Dec 13, 2013

If I were you I would not be in a big rush to buy a new lense. Let me explain, I think you would be best served by using what you have, finding out exactly what type of photography you find most interesting and the base any additional lense purchases on the type of photos you most wish to take. To a degree the type of photography will in may cases dictate what lense you may want to acquire in the future.

fotch · Dec 13, 2013

Welcome to APUG.

David Brown · Dec 13, 2013

Alastor said:
Well i didnt find a thread topic for introductions ...

That would be this one: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Welcome to APUG.

AgX · Dec 13, 2013

Charles Wass said:
All Canon FL and FD lenses are breech lock. How do you suppose they could make the change between the old style with chrome ring and the later type while maintaining complete compatibility? The only difference is in how the breech lock is operated.

I refered to the bayonet type as in a post above the new versions were adviced. The new version is a true bayonet concerning handling, the older Version is a breech lock.

pbromaghin · Dec 13, 2013

I would recommend that when you do start accumulating lenses for your Canon, you stick to Canon lenses. It's not that all 3rd party lenses are no good(I have a Vivitar 80-200 that is fabulous), but that you KNOW the manufacturer's lenses are good. Besides, old manual lenses are so cheap these days that there really isn't much to be saved by straying.

Christopher Walrath · Dec 13, 2013

My recommendation, Alastor, I'd say that you have ALL that you need to get started. Unless you need to get a tripod.

You have a great camera. You have a good kit-range zoom from moderately wide to moderate telephoto. The 1:4 means the maximum aperture of the lens will be f/4 (1/4 the focal length). A prime (non-zoom) lens would give you a larger aperture for low light and tight close focus control. But you are set. Polarizer. Flash.

I say start making some good negatives and invest in film, processing and printing. When you find a situation that your gear can't handle, that is when you acquire the necessary gear to handle it in the future.

Don't worry about gear right now. Be more concerned with mastering what you have and then get more as needed.

You want to put more money into it? Spend a couple hundred dollars, find a cheap enlarger and get the stuff to process your own film and make prints. And any old small space that can be made light tight, even a closet, will make for a darkroom. If you're jumping, dive in head first. You won't regret it.

mweintraub · Dec 13, 2013

www.precision-camera.com does a pretty good job with processing. I've walked in to their location and they are VERY helpful. So, I'm sure the same over the phone and via mailorder. I did not try their scanning, though.

I've used NCPS for their processing and scanning and can say it's top notch too.

As for lenses, don't get sucked into the GAS spirle of empty bank account. I would recommend to take that 35-70mm f4 and have fun.

One little different recommendation I would have is after testing out the camera and learning with cheap film, get a some fresh rolls of the new Kodak Portra 400 and shoot it. Get it processed at good lab and get _good_ scans.

Xmas · Dec 13, 2013

you are in a camera fetish world...

for foam you need mouse mat craft knife several straight edges scissors and double sided pressure sensitive tape

for film processing changing bag, thermometer, development tank, measuring cylinder cloths line pins.

for prints a scanner photo quality inkjet and PC

for wet prints heavy drapes night trays and enlarger

join local photo club get tanks trays and enlarger for free

AstroZon · Dec 13, 2013

One thing I would really recommend is a tripod or monopod. The single stick monopod is great for fast shooting. A tripod is even better, but slower to set up and use, plus bulky if you're mobile. Tripods cannot be beat for macro, low light, or night shooting. If you do use a tripod, also get a cable release so you don't have to touch the camera after you've set it up.

I use both. I have a couple of medium weight Velbon tripods and a Slik 2110 ball head on a Velbon UP-4000 monopod that I've used for years now. It helps to keep the long lenses steady.

micwag2 · Dec 13, 2013

Contact Jon Goodman for your light seals. I've used his kits several times and i can say the quality is top notch with excellent instructions. He is a member on this site.

2bits · Dec 14, 2013

I have a nice clean Canon 50mm 1-1.8 FD I'll send you for cost of shipping If you would like. I figure about $6 should cover it. There are no scratches, haze or fungus, and lens body looks fairly new. +1 on John Goodman's seals. PM me if interested.

Alastor · Dec 14, 2013

thanks for all the replys i had forgot i made a post haha, i'm going to use the silver body for awhile and restore the black one over time, also replyed to you 2bits, im really nervous on doing the developing myself i'm clueless on that subject more so then what settings to use on my camera haha

Jim Taylor · Dec 16, 2013

Don't be nervous! You're among friends on here. Browse through the forums and get some advice on how to develop your first roll. All of the main manufacturers offer simple how-to instruction sheets, available as a .pdf from their website.

Above all, take your time and enjoy - you'll be hooked!

new guy with 35mm

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