New Direct Positive paper from Ilford Harman

Leon

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I've never seen the paper unprocessed so didn't know it was pink, but I can say that after 30 seconds fixing, my paper was pure white. I havent seen any pink on it at all, perhaps you need to strengthen your fix?
 

RalphLambrecht

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Nice to know it is achievable, then

What was your exposure time?

This seems to be crucial.

I set the incident meter to EI 3 and exposed for the recommended reading. EI 3 works for me for indoors without filter. Outdoors, I used EI 3 as well but used a yellow filter.

Do not dilute the developer too much if you're after Dmax. I used Agfa Neutol WA at 1+15 for 2 minutes. A selenium toner will increase Dmax to about 2.0.
 

mesh

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I've been wondering if it were possible modify a box brownie to use this paper? I am a beginner (have only developed - haven't tried any printing yet!) so not sure where to start. If it is possible - any suggestions on where I could find some info to get me started? Many thanks.
 

RalphLambrecht

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They will be small but beautiful. Are you thinking to leave the lens or replace ir with a pinhole as I did?
 

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mesh

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That's awesome Ralph! I was thinking of leaving the lens on for starters - what do you think? Any hints on how I mount the paper? Your new book sounds amazing BTW...
 

Marco B

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That's awesome Ralph! I was thinking of leaving the lens on for starters - what do you think? Any hints on how I mount the paper? Your new book sounds amazing BTW...

Considering the paper is already a very slow EI 3 or so according to the posts here, starting out with a camera with lens might not be such a bad idea...
 

steven_e007

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mesh:

I got a bit fed up with cutting up and loading plate holder just for test shots, so I tried making a direct positive roll film. This was very easy and worked perfectly.

I cut a pre-flashed 11 X 14" sheet into 2 1/4" strips. Obviously these are a bit thick (I used the RC paper) but about half the length of a roll film. I rolled them up in some discarded spools & backing papers. Tape the leader where the arrows start, save wasting the first two inches and you'll get at least five 2 1/4" square frames. No sure I'd want to stick it in a hassleblad back (even if I had one :rolleyes but in a folding roll film camera (or a box camera) with a red window it works fine. I rolled up and processed half a dozen. It means you can do the pre-flash and development of a strip (or whole sheet) of test shots in one go and keep things consistent.
 

mesh

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Thanks very much Steve. Will give it a go and report back... ;-)
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Heard back from Harman on shipping this to the US--35 UKP shipping for a 9 UKP box of 25 sheets of 4x5" paper. Ouch!

I'll ask if maybe we might do better with a larger group order.
 

fiducio

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I ordered this stuff from Harman Direct as well, in the US it wasn't too bad and it got here fast.

I used it like sheet film, and the results are stunning. Hot contrast yet very controllable. Unlike the Efke stuff. I am in love with it!

Even for skin tones, the hard part is making someone stay perfectly still for 1 second or more.
 

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kauffman v36

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wow, thats an amazing example. i might have to grab some. ilford should use that photo for advertisement of the paper and its capabilities. care to share your method.
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Nice result. Are those strawberries? It must be really orthochromatic, which I guess makes sense, since you can use a red safelight, no?
 

fiducio

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Thanks, those are strawberries, yes. The entire series is up on flickr (here).

It is very orthochromatic, which is why i decided to use strawberries. It was shot in my Crown Graphic, Sironar-S 135mm wide open. Develop in Dektol. Fin.

And two more I took to see the extreme ortho properties of this paper:
 

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Joe VanCleave

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These are great images, Brad; thank you for posting them.

Can you give us any tips about exposure and development of this paper? I found with the Efke paper that it required (for me) severe amounts of preflash exposure, for which I had to ultimately fix a standard exposure time, and vary the light and/or the aperture to adjust exposure. Most of my first pack has been used up just in calibration tests.

~Joe
 

fiducio

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There was no preflashing involved, I found that shooting in overcast situations completely mellowed out the contrast situation. I did use that contrast to my advantage though. The higher your dilution of developer will also change the contrast of the paper as well, so I used 1:3 Dektol. I'm going to try other developers too, but this worked like a charm. And at an EI 3, it can get even trickier. The days I shot these it decided it was going to be windy, so some shots were wasted because of that.

I too used up an entire pack of the Efke and Harman stuff for calibration, it's hard to get the hang of, but I believe I have it pretty well dialed in for my use.
 

timeUnit

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I'm actually curious to find out how this paper would lith...

This is very interesting to me as well. I think it's no biggie to go the bleach>redevelop in lith route, that will work for most papers (and looks great sometimes), but I'm very, very interested in how the paper works in direct lith. Does anyone out there have a possibility to try this? I'm a bit wary about ordering the stuff and then it doesn't work in lith...

I have contacted Harman regarding the lithability, but not received an answer yet, a few weeks later.
 

RalphLambrecht

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I you find your way to this year's Photokina in Cologne, Germany, I'll demonstrate the paper to you. I've been asked to help with the demonstration, and the plan is to hands-on expose and develop the paper at the fair. Several large-format cameras are available to take lens and pinhole images. I will also cover the subject of pre-exposure to control contrast.
 
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A direct positive film would be nice

It would be nice to have a positive film to copy negs for alternative processes. Right now I use an inkjet film which is pretty good.
 
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