Luis,
you are absolutely right! Also another consideration is money. At some point I would run out of it!!
claudio
Just remember that almost anything can be over-designed into obsolescence. I remember once an engineer in our firm designed a potable water booster station with so many backups to the backups, that it just didn't work. I ripped out all that garbage in a redesign it with a simple, single backup. If you need to expand your piping in the future, that's what hack saws are for. You're looking to build a roughly 9x11.5 darkroom. There is a very limited amount of "stuff" you can cram into that space. I also would not be without my California Customs drying cabinet seen in my post #28, both for film and paper, but you can run wire lines over your sink if that's what you want to do.
If you need to expand your piping in the future, that's what hack saws are for.
My tank was getting so bad (18 years old, on a 10 year warranty) that my hot line filter was clogged with rust particulates and needed to be changed every month or less, while the cold line filter was barely discolored.
I finally bit the bullet and installed a brand new non-metal fiberglass-and-resin lifetime heater tank. One with real heating elements, before the DOE outlawed that technology in favor of heat pump designs. My tank is inside the darkroom, so a heat pump would have turned the space in a de-facto human refrigerator.
What color do you call your darkroom? That's the nicest shade of gray I've seen.View attachment 151911 Claudio, here's the sink side of my darkroom. You'll notice a long white shelf. About 20 inches above the sink. That is actually and air duct hooked up to an exhaust fan. On the bottom of that duct are vents that are positioned over the dev, stop/fixer and toner trays. Due to it's close proximity to ALL the chemical trays it's does;t allow fumes to build up in the room and you draw the fumes out right off the trays.
I'll send some jpegs of the line over the sink, if you go that route you have to make sure you screw the end brackets into a stud or have them span two studs, because when you tighten up the cable to make it level there's significant tension on it.
Also if you can go to a 96" sink instead of a 84" you might be better off.
Ken are these available in a 10 Gal or so size? Brands?
What color do you call your darkroom? That's the nicest shade of gray I've seen.
It's a risk/reward calculation.
In this particular case, the risk (of installing unions, then never needing them) is very small in terms of the added effort and expense during the construction phase. But the potential reward (of having unions installed when an inline piece of equipment needs removal for servicing, then reinstallation after servicing) may be very large if the task can then be accomplished much more quickly and easily, and without also destroying the system with hack saws...
My darkroom is full of those little risk/reward design calculations. As a result, when change has to happen (as it always will at some point) the process itself of doing the changing has always been relatively painless for me.
Ken
As a design engineer for some 40 years, I'd bet the first time it was changed the plumber cut it out and then installed the unions. Every time I ask a plumber to install a union, they tell me they'd rather just cut it out. Since I have no interest in doing plumbing work, I frankly don't care. It will be their problem in the future and I won't be the one tackling it.unions and ball valves so the controller can be serviced without interupting water sercice to the home.... or at least shut offs to the darkroom.....as a home owner for 40 years i can tell you unions are a beautiful thing. my water heater has been changed 4 times... its so nice to pull it out and reinstall this way instead of cutting pipes. i can get my water heater in n out in just an hour.
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