Neopan 400

[Guillaume Zuili]

I got a pile of that film in 120 by Fuji for an assignment and never used it.
Always want to try, always stay with my regular, Efke25, Verichrome, Tri-X.
I guess I'm afraid to have too much options.
But I keep looking at this tread !

 

[zenrhino]

I've had surprisingly good results with Neopan, especially in DDX. But I use a very slow, gentle agitation (force of habit from using Rodinal) so maybe that helps with my highlights. Either way, neopan 400 through my Rolleicord is just gives me scary good prints on arista.edu ultra semi-matte and a contrast #2 filter. It's my go-to film in 120.

 

[mikez]

I have only used Neopan a handful of times, but it seems to be prone to blown out highlights and a bit high contrast in general (which may not be a bad thing depending on your personal preference). I have gotten nice results with it, but I prefer Tri-X or HP-5.

 

[firecracker]

Firecracker,
I just bought some Super Prodol Developer in Japan. What developing time and temperature do you use with Presto 400? Thanks!

I use a 2-reel tank for 35mm film developing, and dilute the SPD to 1:1. And I develop at 20 Celsius for 7 min 30 sec, or at 23 Celsius for 6 minutes. I think I'm pushing a bit compared to the recommended chart by Fuji. What I heard is that SPD is actually for normal and pushing process, and it's kind of soft to begin with. So you might have to play with it a bit for your own taste.

And I use the same developer three, four times (up to 6-8 rolls if I use it within a week or two), and for the third or forth time, I usually add extra 30 seconds to the developing time.

When I shoot, I usually set both Neopan and TriX at ASA 400, but I do manage to play with the exposure with the light meter in my camera. And they both give me about equal results.

 

[john_s]

I have only used Neopan a handful of times, but it seems to be prone to blown out highlights and a bit high contrast in general (which may not be a bad thing depending on your personal preference). I have gotten nice results with it, but I prefer Tri-X or HP-5.

You can't really compare films unless you develop them all to close to equal contrast. In the case of Neopan400, for whatever developer you tested it with, that means using a shorter dev time than you might use for other films.

 

[John Bragg]

Hi all.

Like many others here, I had a shaky start with Neopan 400. It is now one of my all time favorites, when rated at Ei200 and developed in Rodinal 1:50 for 12 minutes. Agitation seems to be critical and 15 secs initial followed by 2 invertions at 4 minutes and 2 more at 8 minutes seems to work incredibly well for me. Examples included on the links below.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=82372

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=82373

Regards, John.

 

[jackc]

The problem for me is that I don't see this film selling in bulk rolls.

 

[Jordan]

The problem for me is that I don't see this film selling in bulk rolls.

Fuji discontinued their bulk rolls of B&W film about a year ago.

 

[Christiaan Phleger]

Sigh, those USA packaged bulk rolls were actually longer than 100ft, you could get a perfect 20 rolls with a 4-6 inch section left over. The Japan packaged bulk rolls were shorter, giving the usual 18 rolls plus one 20-25 exp. roll. Saving the few I have left in the deep freeze, but I'll be bummed when those are gone, I used them for more than a decade.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I did experiment with Neopan 400 a while back and must say I really really like it. I used Pyrocat-MC for developer, shot the film at EI200, and developed for about 40 minutes with minimal agitation (first minute the whole minute, half way for ten seconds). Great shadow detail, the extreme compensating effect of minimal agitation = no blown highlights. The prints reminded me of those from Tri-X, but with less grain and a bit smoother tonal gradations.
Now I have a boat load of Tri-X in the fridge, I bought a year's worth. So I have to shoot that first. But then I will seriously consider swapping to Neopan. I find Tri-X marginally better, but it's much more expensive. It's a toss-up. I can't really tell much difference between the prints unless I compare them side by side, and that is boring and doesn't do me any good in achieving my goals.

With the problems you say you have, shoot the film at EI200 and hold back your development. How much you can only tell by experimenting. Neopan 400 is an awesome product and you should be able to get equally awesome results with it.

- Thomas

 

[John Bragg]

Hi, Thomas.

I concur with your findings. Awesome at Ei 200. I am so impressed with it at this speed.

Regards, John.