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Need some advice on multiple wireless flash setup for Nikon FE2

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NowhereMan

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Joined
Oct 23, 2025
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Location
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I am about to purchase some gear to experiment with simple wireless flash setups for studio portrait photography. Since I shoot both digital and film I try to buy some gear that I can use in both scenarios. Right now I only own a Nikon SB-26 flash unit. For use with my Sony a7iii I decided to buy the Godox TT685 and the Godox TT350 plus the X2T-S trigger.

Now I am debating how I could use the same flash units with the FE2 in a fully manual flash setup. One option would be to buy the Godox X2T-N trigger. This would allow me to trigger the TT685 and TT350. The SB-26 I could use in optical slave mode (or buy a Godox X1R receiver). This should work but the X2T could be overkill because it has many functions that aren't needed in such a simple setup.

The other option would be something like the Yongnuo RF-602 or RF-603 – simple flash triggers that only transmit a fire signal. I think I would prefer the 603 because it tolerates higher ignition voltage, but on the other hand it doesn't have a mounting thread which makes it more awkward to mount on a stand. In Europe there is also a device called Multi Trig by German manufacturer Kaiser. It works very similarly to the Yongnuo RF-603 but has higher tolerance for ignition voltage and a mounting thread.

These are all cheap options so the price isn't the deciding factor. What would be your choice?
 
Not familiar with the equipment you mention, but can’t you just use the trigger you have and set the others to slave mode?
 
Yeah, the simplest way for both cameras is to have a flash on the camera and have all the other flashes either set to slave mode (if they have it) or get slave units to attach to the flash shoes. You'll need to have flashes where you can adjust the power output, and a flash meter to get the balance right.
 
Since you already have godox flashes, I suggest getting a godox trigger for your FE2. I have all godox flashes and use them with a variety of manual and TTL cameras. It all works fine. I recently got a Flashpoint R2 Single Pin Transceiver (2-Pack) for 50.00 from Adorama for use on my manual cameras. It works on any camera, since it is single-pin and therefore does not support TTL. It is pretty simple to operate, allowing you to trigger any number of godox flashes in manual mode (not TTL), up to 5 groups. For the godox flashes, you should be able to adjust the power (setting the flashes to manual) from the trigger. For your Nikon SB-26, you will have to adjust the power on the flash itself. Since it comes with 2 transceivers, you can put one on your camera and one on your SB-26, and it should be able to to trigger all the flashes. If you decide to go this route, I suggest you call Adorama, explain your setup to them, ask them if it will work with the setup you have.
 
Since you already have godox flashes, I suggest getting a godox trigger for your FE2. I have all godox flashes and use them with a variety of manual and TTL cameras. It all works fine. I recently got a Flashpoint R2 Single Pin Transceiver (2-Pack) for 50.00 from Adorama for use on my manual cameras. It works on any camera, since it is single-pin and therefore does not support TTL. It is pretty simple to operate, allowing you to trigger any number of godox flashes in manual mode (not TTL), up to 5 groups. For the godox flashes, you should be able to adjust the power (setting the flashes to manual) from the trigger. For your Nikon SB-26, you will have to adjust the power on the flash itself. Since it comes with 2 transceivers, you can put one on your camera and one on your SB-26, and it should be able to to trigger all the flashes. If you decide to go this route, I suggest you call Adorama, explain your setup to them, ask them if it will work with the setup you have.

additional suggestion: I use a simlar setup fpr studio table-top photography with slavetriggers. a good way to hold the triggers up and in place is an inexpensive LogiLink Mini-tripod. It stands firmly on three adjustable legs and supports anything with a 1/4" thread up to 1 kg.
 
Not familiar with the equipment you mention, but can’t you just use the trigger you have and set the others to slave mode?
I thought the Sony-specific Godox trigger (X2T-S) wouldn't work on an old Nikon SLR. But maybe it would? True, it only has to transmit the "fire" command, no TTL data. But I'm not sure the hotshoe would fit.

Yeah, the simplest way for both cameras is to have a flash on the camera and have all the other flashes either set to slave mode (if they have it) or get slave units to attach to the flash shoes. You'll need to have flashes where you can adjust the power output, and a flash meter to get the balance right.
I want to build a setup with 2-3 off-camera flashes. So I need at least a trigger for the main flash unit.
 
I want to build a setup with 2-3 off-camera flashes. So I need at least a trigger for the main flash unit.

I mentioned that you'll need a flash "on the camera" in order to fires the other flashes, but the trigger flash doesn't actually need to be on the flash shoe of the camera. You can use a flash off-camera that is attached with a PC cord. In either case, the flash can be powerful or weak -- and weak would be preferred if it's not needed as a light source for the subject.
 
I'm pretty sure a hot shoe is a hot shoe. The pin configurations may be different, but the basic firing pins and physical fit should be the same.

Since NowhereMan mentioned digital cameras, a hot shoe is not just a hot shoe is not just a hot shoe. The standard hot shoe has been reconfigured by some companies so that some newer flashes are no longer compatible. with older cameras. Minolta moved away from the standard ISO hot shoe (which was modified by various companies to meet their needs) with its MAXXUM cameras to an "INTELLIGENT ISO" shoe -- called the iISO. The shoe is VERY different, and ISO flashes will only fit with an adapter. Getting the NEW MAXXUM flashes to work on older cameras? Good luck. The new flashes don't have PC connections and the flashes won't fit on ISO flash shoes.

Sony's latest digital cameras use a completely different MULTI-FACETED flash shoe -- which is even more different. The shoe is more like a circuit board.

I'm sure there are other examples.
 
Since NowhereMan mentioned digital cameras, a hot shoe is not just a hot shoe is not just a hot shoe. The standard hot shoe has been reconfigured by some companies so that some newer flashes are no longer compatible. with older cameras. Minolta moved away from the standard ISO hot shoe (which was modified by various companies to meet their needs) with its MAXXUM cameras to an "INTELLIGENT ISO" shoe -- called the iISO. The shoe is VERY different, and ISO flashes will only fit with an adapter. Getting the NEW MAXXUM flashes to work on older cameras? Good luck. The new flashes don't have PC connections and the flashes won't fit on ISO flash shoes.

Sony's latest digital cameras use a completely different MULTI-FACETED flash shoe -- which is even more different. The shoe is more like a circuit board.

I'm sure there are other examples.
I've just tried mounting a modern Sony flash with a multi-interface hot shoe on my FE2. Doesn't work. I can't slide it in place. So I guess the X2T-S won't fit either.
 
I mentioned that you'll need a flash "on the camera" in order to fires the other flashes, but the trigger flash doesn't actually need to be on the flash shoe of the camera. You can use a flash off-camera that is attached with a PC cord. In either case, the flash can be powerful or weak -- and weak would be preferred if it's not needed as a light source for the subject.
Some triggers can be connected to the camera with a PC cord, eliminating the need for a dedicated trigger flash. Of course, one needs to figure out how to deal with that dangling trigger if shooting hand-held.
 
I've just tried mounting a modern Sony flash with a multi-interface hot shoe on my FE2. Doesn't work. I can't slide it in place. So I guess the X2T-S won't fit either.

Like I said, some newer flashes have completely different feet and will not fit on old ISO shoes. There are adapters for some flashes to some older shoes, but if they work, some of the features may not -- for example, they will likely not have TTL flash because the older camera lacks that feature, so if the newer flash only has TTL flash mode, it won't work at all.
 
Some triggers can be connected to the camera with a PC cord, eliminating the need for a dedicated trigger flash. Of course, one needs to figure out how to deal with that dangling trigger if shooting hand-held.

A PC connection from the camera to the trigger flash is an option, but many newer flashes do not have a PC connection. One work-around for this is to use an adapter on the camera's ISO hot shot that connects to the new foot of the newer flash. But for the price of the flash shoe adapter, you can probably buy a small, simple, weak, ISO flash that fits on the camera's ISO shoe, and use that as a trigger for the other flashes.
 
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