Need New Polarizer filter - Choices are Mind Boggling

[DF]

I was able to nab a new Made-In-Germany Calumet MC polarizer - for just$8 - from, of all places, Walmart on their website (via Ebay) for my Minolta SRT. Cheap maybe for it's the odd 55mm size to fit the ancient but great 58mm Rokkor.
Now I need a 49mm, can't believe the price ranges. 'Like to stay around $25 if possible but of course want the best image I could get for shooting Ektachrome/Velvia. Linera - circular - multi-coated - etc... Recommendations any?

 

[Kodachromeguy]

If you look at eBay, you'll find a thousand (or 10 thousand) 49mm polarizers. For a Minolta SRT, any type will do, linear or circular. In my experience, if you use a hood, the coating is not a big issue. Some suggestions from best to poorer:

1. Heliopan or B+W, coated or multi-coated
2. Manufacturer brand polarizer (which may have been made by Hoya). Probably single coated but may be multi.
3. Prime Japanese production from Hoya, Toshiba, and other brands.
4. Tiffen
5. Off or store brands, but many of these, if made in Japan, may be just fine. Vivitar and Calumet filters seem fine.

 

[Philippe-Georges]

On eBuy, I found several used filters, polarisers too, Zenza Bronca branded but clearly made by HOYA and in perfect optical shape and all at a good price, even as the size wasn't customary (82mm).

49mm was Pentax's standard size (like 52mm was for Nikon), look for this brand, used, as they are probably made by HOYA too.

 

[Ian Grant]

I use a Cokin polarising filter, P size holder. It's glass coated and made for them by Hoya, The advantage is it fits my LF lenses.

Ian

 

[Rick A]

I was able to nab a new Made-In-Germany Calumet MC polarizer - for just$8 - from, of all places, Walmart on their website (via Ebay) for my Minolta SRT. Cheap maybe for it's the odd 55mm size to fit the ancient but great 58mm Rokkor.
Now I need a 49mm, can't believe the price ranges. 'Like to stay around $25 if possible but of course want the best image I could get for shooting Ektachrome/Velvia. Linera - circular - multi-coated - etc... Recommendations any?

Get a 49-55mm step up ring.

 

[neilt3]

Most of my polarisers are Minolta ones .
I think I've got a Nikon one and a few B+W ones as well .
I've also the ones from Cokin for my slot in filter systems, A , P and Z-Pro .

All give good results .

For manual focus cameras it doesn't matter if you use linear or circular.
Autofocus cameras needed the circular type .

Just avoid those cheep ones on eBay you've never heard off .

 

[Disappointed_Horse]

For my vintage cameras and lenses, my favorite place to buy filters is https://www.filterfind.net/. I generally prefer to buy vintage filters from the same manufacturer who made the lens. I also have quite a few Hoya filters and a few Tiffen filters and they are all perfectly satisfactory. Filterfind.net has pretty good prices and everything I've bought from there has been as represented or better.

Get multi-coated filters if you can. Single coated are probably not that big of a deal, but make sure you use a lens hood with them. (I almost always use a hood regardless.)

 

[Angarian]

I was able to nab a new Made-In-Germany Calumet MC polarizer - for just$8 - from, of all places, Walmart on their website (via Ebay) for my Minolta SRT. Cheap maybe for it's the odd 55mm size to fit the ancient but great 58mm Rokkor.
Now I need a 49mm, can't believe the price ranges. 'Like to stay around $25 if possible but of course want the best image I could get for shooting Ektachrome/Velvia. Linera - circular - multi-coated - etc... Recommendations any?

From a quality point of view the best you can get are the B+W circular polarizer filters type "Käsemann" (KSM), with the MRC nano coating. By far best, most neutral color rendition. And no visible sharpness loss.

Polarisationsfilter

Zirkularpolfilter Das Standard-Zirkularpolfilter eignet sich gleichermaßen für Analog- und Digitalkameras. Lineare Polarisierung kann bei Strahlenteilung im Kamerainneren (durch Spiegel oder Prismen) die Belichtungs- oder AF-Messung verfälschen. Zirkulare Polarisierung verhindert das, bei sonst...

bw-filtershop.de

There have been several tests in photo magazines in the past confirming that. I am using this filter type for years, and I am extremely satiesfied.

 

[MattKing]

For manual focus cameras it doesn't matter if you use linear or circular.
Autofocus cameras needed the circular type .

There are some manual focus cameras that circular polarizers are better for.
The necessity for circular polarizers arises if the camera uses a beam splitter in either the metering or the focusing system.

 

[neilt3]

There are some manual focus cameras that circular polarizers are better for.
The necessity for circular polarizers arises if the camera uses a beam splitter in either the metering or the focusing system.

Always thought it was just for the AF .

 

[MattKing]

I can remember when the cameras requiring the circular polarizers started to become more common in the 1970s. At that time they were much less common than the linear versions, and more expensive.
The Minolta experts will likely chime in if I'm wrong, but I don't think the Minolta SRT series cameras (which I sold for a while) required them.
The Canon AE-1 might have required them - but my memory on that is unclear.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Be aware that many polarizers do lend a slightly greenish tint. Only the best are truly neutral. If you're worried about either weather-related condensation between elements, or tropical humidity, the Kasemann type will be the most reliable, albeit the most expensive.

 

[GRHazelton]

For my vintage cameras and lenses, my favorite place to buy filters is https://www.filterfind.net/. I generally prefer to buy vintage filters from the same manufacturer who made the lens. I also have quite a few Hoya filters and a few Tiffen filters and they are all perfectly satisfactory. Filterfind.net has pretty good prices and everything I've bought from there has been as represented or better.

Get multi-coated filters if you can. Single coated are probably not that big of a deal, but make sure you use a lens hood with them. (I almost always use a hood regardless.)

Another vote for filterfind.net. Tim really knows his stock; he has been able to outfit me with filter kits - hood, filters, fitted case - for a number of different cameras. His prices are fair and the quality of his used or New Old Stock is properly represented.

 

[DF]

For my vintage cameras and lenses, my favorite place to buy filters is https://www.filterfind.net/. I generally prefer to buy vintage filters from the same manufacturer who made the lens. I also have quite a few Hoya filters and a few Tiffen filters and they are all perfectly satisfactory. Filterfind.net has pretty good prices and everything I've bought from there has been as represented or better.

Get multi-coated filters if you can. Single coated are probably not that big of a deal, but make sure you use a lens hood with them. (I almost always use a hood regardless.)

I'll give them a look

 

[DF]

The one I'm replacing was a Tiffen. It had to be twenty-five years old - probably why the glass itself literally fell off/out of its ring as I screwed it in, freak accident or maybe a way of saying time-to-get-a-new-one? BTW, is there a certain duration for how long a polarizer effectively "polarizes"?
'Tried to crazy glue it back into the ring but ended up crazy gluing my fingers, and getting it on the glass.

 

[DF]

Calumet filters seem fine.

'Would sure like to find another Calumet "Made In Germany" polarizer - and from Walmart again, but that's asking for too much.

 

[eli griggs]

I

If you look at eBay, you'll find a thousand (or 10 thousand) 49mm polarizers. For a Minolta SRT, any type will do, linear or circular. In my experience, if you use a hood, the coating is not a big issue. Some suggestions from best to poorer:

1. Heliopan or B+W, coated or multi-coated
2. Manufacturer brand polarizer (which may have been made by Hoya). Probably single coated but may be multi.
3. Prime Japanese production from Hoya, Toshiba, and other brands.
4. Tiffen
5. Off or store brands, but many of these, if made in Japan, may be just fine. Vivitar and Calumet filters seem fine.

I like your #1. choices and these are what I look for on eBay and K.E.H., etc.

So far, I've not been disappointed, and next to new is not a rare occurrence.

IMO

 

[neilt3]

The one I'm replacing was a Tiffen. It had to be twenty-five years old - probably why the glass itself literally fell off/out of its ring as I screwed it in, freak accident or maybe a way of saying time-to-get-a-new-one? BTW, is there a certain duration for how long a polarizer effectively "polarizes"?

Some of my Minolta ones are from either the late 60's to early 70's before they changed style from chomed finish and thin , to a larger outer rotating part and black finish .
They all seem to work fine .
Some of them I bought new in the early 90's look and function exactly the same now as then .
So very durable .

Avoid dropping them in the sea though .
That doesn't do them any good .
Even rinsing the salt water off with beer didn't help .....

 

[loccdor]

Hoya multicoated HMC filters got the best test results regarding flare and ghosting. B+W MRC came in second but are much more expensive. I avoid Tiffen. If you use an uncoated filter, shade your lens well.

UV filters test - Description of the results and summary

It is time to present the results of our tests. In the chart below we present the filters’ ranking according to the points they achieved in all the categories. Overall ranking Filter Result Result [%] Price[PLN] 1 Hoya 72 mm HMC UV-0 36 90 79 ...

www.lenstip.com

 

[benveniste]

I was able to nab a new Made-In-Germany Calumet MC polarizer - for just$8 - from, of all places, Walmart on their website (via Ebay) for my Minolta SRT. Cheap maybe for it's the odd 55mm size to fit the ancient but great 58mm Rokkor.
Now I need a 49mm, can't believe the price ranges. 'Like to stay around $25 if possible but of course want the best image I could get for shooting Ektachrome/Velvia. Linera - circular - multi-coated - etc... Recommendations any?

Most current manufacturers don't bother making linear polarizers any more, since the addition of a quarter wave plate is inexpensive, has an insignificant impact on performance, and reduces returns and complains from people with cameras that prefer them.

The good news is that if you choose a multicoated circular polarizer I can't think of any truly bad choices. Here are some of the differences you can expect.

• Thickness -- Thick polarizers are harder to find these days, but they are easier to use in the field. The downside is that they can cause vignetting with some lenses.
• Outer coating -- Some polarizers, such as the Hoya HMC have a reputation of being hard to clean. Lenses with a harder or "nano" coating can make the job easier.
• Front filter threads -- Some thin polarizers don't have front filter threads. Not only does that prevent you from attaching additional filters, but it can prevent you from using a lens cap or screw-in hood.
• "HD" film -- Traditional polarizing film absorbs about 1.3 stops of light even without any polarization effect. Newer HD films absorb significantly less, but can make the color balance appear to be warmer.
• Brass vs. Aluminum Alloy Rings -- The claim is that brass rings are more durable and bind less than ones made of aluminum alloy, and in my experience the claim about binding appears to be true.

Here are my good/better/best choices based on 49mm price points.

• K&F Nano-Clear -- $14 at kenthfaith.com -- I have one of these in 86mm. Besides the claimed "nano" coating, there are no additional bells & whistles. It's a thin filter with front filter rings.
• Marumi Super DHG -- $54 at amazon -- We've already blown past your $25 price point, but IMO this filter is better constructed than the K&F.
• B+W High-Transmission MRC-Nano Master -- $91 at B&H or Amazon. -- This filter checks all of the boxes. It's a thin filter and has front filter threads. The ring is made of brass, and the coatings are state-of-the-practice. It's also a Kaesemann filter, which seals the edges to prevent environmental damage. But as you can see, you pay a premium price for it.

 

[DF]

Most current manufacturers don't bother making linear polarizers any more, since the addition of a quarter wave plate is inexpensive, has an insignificant impact on performance, and reduces returns and complains from people with cameras that prefer them.

The good news is that if you choose a multicoated circular polarizer I can't think of any truly bad choices. Here are some of the differences you can expect.

• Thickness -- Thick polarizers are harder to find these days, but they are easier to use in the field. The downside is that they can cause vignetting with some lenses.
• Outer coating -- Some polarizers, such as the Hoya HMC have a reputation of being hard to clean. Lenses with a harder or "nano" coating can make the job easier.
• Front filter threads -- Some thin polarizers don't have front filter threads. Not only does that prevent you from attaching additional filters, but it can prevent you from using a lens cap or screw-in hood.
• "HD" film -- Traditional polarizing film absorbs about 1.3 stops of light even without any polarization effect. Newer HD films absorb significantly less, but can make the color balance appear to be warmer.
• Brass vs. Aluminum Alloy Rings -- The claim is that brass rings are more durable and bind less than ones made of aluminum alloy, and in my experience the claim about binding appears to be true.

Here are my good/better/best choices based on 49mm price points.

• K&F Nano-Clear -- $14 at kenthfaith.com -- I have one of these in 86mm. Besides the claimed "nano" coating, there are no additional bells & whistles. It's a thin filter with front filter rings.
• Marumi Super DHG -- $54 at amazon -- We've already blown past your $25 price point, but IMO this filter is better constructed than the K&F.
• B+W High-Transmission MRC-Nano Master -- $91 at B&H or Amazon. -- This filter checks all of the boxes. It's a thin filter and has front filter threads. The ring is made of brass, and the coatings are state-of-the-practice. It's also a Kaesemann filter, which seals the edges to prevent environmental damage. But as you can see, you pay a premium price for it.

Many of the recommendations, the various brands that is, don't indicate whether or not their filters are coated - "multi-coated" - "single-coated' - etc.
Hoya - Kenko - Tiffen - ???

 

[DF]

If I may ask again: is there a length of time a polarizing filter works effectively - does it fade or diminish with time,
and if so, does it have something to do with the coatings wearing away or the actual glass itself?

 

[MattKing]

Mostly they die because of damage.
And of course, the tend to be a magnet for finger prints, because one is always reaching to turn them while looking through the viewfinder.
To a great extent, the advantage of having a higher priced version from somewhere like B & W comes from its better mechanical construction.

 

[BrianShaw]

If I may ask again: is there a length of time a polarizing filter works effectively - does it fade or diminish with time,
and if so, does it have something to do with the coatings wearing away or the actual glass itself?

Delamination is a common failure mode. Fortunately, that is easy to see.

 

[xkaes]

Get a 49-55mm step up ring.

We tend to complicate things as much as we can.

Linear polarizers work fine on all of Minolta's manual-focusing SLR cameras. All you need is a $2 step-up ring.

If, at a later date, you decide to get a different camera, you can worry about it at that point.