Need help understanding lens mounts for Omega D2 enlarger

[AmysDarkroom]

Hi all!

Starting to put together my own darkroom at home and managed to find an Omega D2 enlarger with a Super Chromega Dichroic head.

It is a project, needs a lot of TLC and did not come with a lot of the basic accessories such as lens holders and negative carriers. I've never used an Omega enlarger before, I've used De Vere for the past 6 years exclusively in school so this is all new to me. I'm getting very confused about what lens disc I need etc. I know that I need a 2 3/4 inch lens cone for a 135mm lens, but after that, I'm completely lost. I don't want to spend a load of money and end up with metal useless to me. I've found this specific lens I'm interested in: Schneider Componon S 135mm f5.6. Does anyone have ideas or wisdom?

Thank you,
Amy

 

[MattKing]

Welcome to Photrio, from another part of the Commonwealth .
KHB is your friend: http://www.khbphotografix.com/omega/Enlargers/D2.htm
As I understand it, there are two different Schneider Componon S 135mm f5.6 lenses - one with a 42mm thread and the other with a 50mm thread. The thread diameter of yours will determine which lens disk you need.
Good luck and have fun.

 

[AmysDarkroom]

Thank you for having me!
Ah ha! That explains why I found 2 listings with different sizes, I was worried the number was just incorrect on one of them, thank you. So say I buy the 42mm thread disc and the lens cone, is there anything else I need or am I set to go?

 

[MattKing]

That should cover it for mounting the lens.
A Devere may be more refined, but an Omega D2 in good condition will serve you very well!
When it comes to parts and accessories, you may find that there is more availability in North America.

 

[AmysDarkroom]

Yes I've already found that which is making it all a bit more expensive. I don't mind though, I'm in it for the long term so don't mind investing now
Thank you for your help

 

[MattKing]

Yes I've already found that which is making it all a bit more expensive. I don't mind though, I'm in it for the long term so don't mind investing now
Thank you for your help

Don't hesitate to share your experience here, or ask for whatever advice you may need.
I just recently moved and the darkroom is in storage, but otherwise my Omega D6 would be meeting my needs.

 

[eli griggs]

Any Omega Lens mounts, for any of those enlargers D or E series should be grabbed with both hands when they pass your way, (if expense is no the bother) as you likely may 'upgrade' your enlarger for another Omega, or have a need to swap with someone else for the Omega Item you do need.

For example, say you can no find the colour head and power supply you are currently looking for, but some one pops up and says "Say, I have an E5 with the E series colour head, I can let you have," and so you acquire an E, with your D series film holders in hand.

Well, Omega made a Masonite adapter that will allow you to use those D film holder, no sweat, and if you need to make your own, you simply reach out to someone, no unlike myself, that has such a carrier, and see if they will do a tracing with notes, of the woodish carrier and pop it over to you with an email of by-way-of post.

Even if you do no have a saw or aptitude to make your own, I'm sure there are loads of folks near you who do and will do it for a couple of bucks, the remains of the Masonite or a hardwood board or two.

Even the possibility of being gifted the carrier holder exist and is common enough of an occurrence.

The Omegas D & E series are great, and once you're in the 'Family' you'll find it unnatural to consider other brands as replacements for your main enlarger.

Now, something others here have disproved of,but you might find fun to do, is this, when it comes to negative or slide holders/carriers, some heavy mat board scraps, which a framing shop may just let you have, can easily be used to made into holders.

One Professional Photographer I worked for, used such holders for his Bessler 45 motorized enlarger and I used the same for several years, in his darkroom with nary a hitch, though I did make one or two myself that I felt gave a little extra to his photography and mine.

Just deeply blacken the window edges with Sharpie, use black mat and use some gaffers tape to make a hinge that is correctly aligned with the two windows.

This way, you can make carriers for 16mm on up to 4x5, as needed, and have both regulated and full frame with black border holders at the expense of the fetching of mat board, and your 'quite' time to make.

I hope this helps and if you hear of any old fashioned film studios or College/H.S.darkroom, shutting down, be the first to ask if they used or have Omega parts or even an enlarger they are selling or giving away.

Be Happy, Be Safe and Godspeed,
Eli

 

[John Koehrer]

When you get the lens make sure it has a retaining ring.

 

[MattKing]

When you get the lens make sure it has a retaining ring.

Also referred to by some as a "jam nut".
There is one exception - there are a few lens boards and lens disks that are threaded, so you only need to attach the lenses directly.

 

[Paul Howell]

The older Omega models can be complicated, lot of parts, but once you get yours sorted with the lens, disks and cones you need you will have very usable enlarger. I've used Omega enlargers for over 50 years, have a Omega D3 that I bought wll used 40 years ago. The lens disk is pretty basic you can it drilled if need be or have one made for not much money, I've know folks who made them out of thin plywood.

 

[cowanw]

I have a 2 3/4 cone for 135 lens, (requires lens disc, which are not discs in any sense I know but rather elongated plates with two screw holes to fit the cones or plates) a 4 3/4 inch cone for 150 lens, (requires lens disc) and 4 flat plates (421-100) for 50-105mm lenses (requires lens disc) and 0ne flat plate with a 32mm hole ( came with a Wollensak 101mm f4.5) For mailing costs from Canada.

 

[cowanw]

My Schneider Componon 135mm f5.6 lenses has a 32.5 mm size. I have a 135 Wollensak f 4.5 with disc which I could send, also discs 421-013,421-145 and some larger sizes.

 

[Jim Blodgett]

Hi Amy - I use two Omega D5 XLs with Super Dichloric heads in my little darkroom. I also have an older D2 I keep for parts. As others have said lots of the parts are interchangeable between the D2 and the D5. In fact, I use D2 negative carriers because they were more readily available when I was just getting set up. So as you shop for used stuff, keep that in mind.

You talked about a 135mm lens. That will work for up to 4x5 negatives, but for 35mm I like to use a 50mm lens, 80 or 105mm for 120 film. Omega makes, and I recommend you look into, a 3 lens turret that allows for quick and simple lens changes depending on what size negative and how large you are printing. To start out, you could just mount one lens in your turret, then add the other two as you happen upon them used.

One other thing about that Super Dichloric head. If you are going to print 4x5 you will need a 4x5 mixing chamber. There is a little sliding door on the front of the head. Slide it up and there you'll see your mixing chamber. The more common 2+1/4 x 2+3/4" mixing chamber looks similar, but the opaque lens that is parallel to the enlarging lens on the 4x5 mixing chamber is larger, giving more even light distribution to the edges of the larger negative.

Here in the U.S. omega enlargers and parts are widely available on the used market. I haven't had any trouble rounding up whatever spare stuff I need. Hopefully that will be your experience.

 

[eli griggs]

The older Omega models can be complicated, lot of parts, but once you get yours sorted with the lens, disks and cones you need you will have very usable enlarger. I've used Omega enlargers for over 50 years, have a Omega D3 that I bought wll used 40 years ago. The lens disk is pretty basic you can it drilled if need be or have one made for not much money, I've know folks who made them out of thin plywood.

That is a good idea, I might try if I find I am in need of a cone I do no already have.

Do you have any links to what others have done.

IMO.

 

[Paul Howell]

You make a disk, it's flat, just need a cut out, but cone, need a machine shop, dont know of anyone you has a cone, although rather than a cone you can make a box. but look at Ebay there are a lot of Omega parts, harder to find overseas.

 

[eli griggs]

You make a disk, it's flat, just need a cut out, but cone, need a machine shop, dont know of anyone you has a cone, although rather than a cone you can make a box. but look at Ebay there are a lot of Omega parts, harder to find overseas.

Or,
you find someone local that can spin form metal on a lathe. give him a dimension for the narrow end of the cone, to make a wooden piece onto the outside of which he secures the circular, brass or aluminum metal plate to, perhaps with an interior piece as well, maybe with the angle of the cone started a couple or thee inches or so, to follow in his/her initial shaping and let the operator get to it.

The piece of metal should be cut oversized, large enough so the outer flat plate, now cone, can be sawn on two sides, parallel, so they give a good fit to the lens board holder.

The cone can be parted off to the needed lens size, plus retaining nut or other fastener, and chemically blackened, if brass or painted black.

Or,
use a wood band, jig or scroll saw to cut a series of angled plywood forms with about three inch borders, keeping the newly holed blanks together.

Glue the cone form, the circular pieces together, keeping sure they do no shift, an air gun shooting long brads or staples comes in handy here, and let dry while clamped.

When dried,scrape any dried glue off, rub it down with Formby's wood soap or a thick oil, thinly, and starting with the largest, holed blank, fit this over the form which may require a layer or two of heavy painter's roll border paper, and fit, glue/staple these peaces together carefully, doing the same for the other pieces until dried, scraped and finished, by removing any stuck paper from the form.

Now, you can either beat down the metal disk for the cone, with a mallet, being sure to secure the disk to the to the top of the cone form, once it's center is marked, or, use a hydraulic press to SLOWLY press the outside form down onto the inner cone form.

The metal must be annealed, before ANY Shaping, because it work hardens and especially with brass on the two forms, several times during the pressing, to avoid cracking the metal, and one more time when all machining is finished.

Take care of the two forms and you can use them again, if needed.

Yes, it will be cheaper in the long run to buy used here in the U.S., however, for the 'do it your selfers' , and other crafts people whom need a project or two, this is a good way to spend a few days in "isolation".

IMO, Good Luck!

 

[removed account4]

hi
you might also check out harry Taylor's website -- http://classic-enlargers.com
he passed away a few years ago but he was the omega man, his daughter who posts here once in a blue moon
keeps his website going... he has lost of info on your enlarger, I have a d3v ( mil contract ). and have enjoyed it for decades
you'll get a lifetime and then some out of yours !

John

 

[eli griggs]

hi
you might also check out harry Taylor's website -- http://classic-enlargers.com
he passed away a few years ago but he was the omega man, his daughter who posts here once in a blue moon
keeps his website going... he has lost of info on your enlarger, I have a d3v ( mil contract ). and have enjoyed it for decades
you'll get a lifetime and then some out of yours !

John

I enjoyed his site many times, and I will miss his input, as he seemed generous in his input to queries I had made.

I just checked and she has cones listed for sale on that site.

I hope she is able to keep the site and business end of it going, and continues to seek out new inventory, in the years ahead.

Godspeed to all.

 

[John Koehrer]

link to KHB Omega lens mount stuff. They're in Canada and I don't know about tarriff etc.

 

[Paul Howell]

I bought parts for my Sanders LP D760, no tariff on my purchase.

 

[MattKing]

Due to the replacement for NAFTA, if you are importing most goods into the USA, Canada or Mexico, technically there should be no duties (tariffs provide for duty free importation) on anything that originated as new from Canada, the US or Mexico. There may be duties for things that originated elsewhere -- for example from Japan.
It isn't the country you buy from that determines the issue, it is the country that the item originated from.
Local sales taxes may be applicable.
Practically speaking, used darkroom equipment for personal use of small or moderate value is often not bothered with by the customs authorities.