Need help picking a Nikon SLR

fstop · Jan 19, 2017

RichardJack said:
Hi,
I agree with those who said the FA or F3. The F3 will allow you to use the 6x high magnification finder that will give you a beautiful view of your composition. Was that the 28 f4 PC on Ebay a few weeks back? I was watching it but went for the 24mm 3.5 PC-E.
best of luck,
Rick

+1 mirror lock up sways my choice toward the F-3.

John Koehrer · Jan 19, 2017

You're getting a lot of suggestions for non-pro cameras. FE/FM/FA/FG/Fwhatever.

The ONLY ones that have 100% viewfinder are the PRO models. F/F2/F3/F4/F5/F6.
There a couple of post that mention that and I guess the print is too small to catch.

rthollenbeck · Jan 19, 2017

I don't think he said he need a 100% view finder..... Most cameras across the board don't offer that, I never found that to be a problem. I can't even say I've ever noticed to be honest.

He did say he would like to have the mirror lock up, I think that only comes on the Pro F cameras.

jimjm · Jan 19, 2017

Due to to fact that the OP is using a perspective-control lens, shooting on a tripod and also doing interiors shots, I would want to have a viewfinder that shows 100% of the image area. I use 4x5 cameras for architectural shots, and I learned long ago to inspect the corners and edges of the image before tripping the shutter.

Craig · Jan 19, 2017

I would choose the F4 over the F3 (I have both) because of the matrix metering. It works really well in the F4. Last time I checked, an F4 was cheaper too. Both accept standard cable releases, which is nice.The F3 doesn't have a hotshoe (unless you get an F3P, which doesn't have a cable release!) so no place to mount a level unless you get the hotshoe adapter.

If you get an F4 (as opposed to an F4s) with the smaller battery pack (4 AA's) the weight isn't too bad. Wight with the MB20 is listed at 1090g, F3HP is 760g. Is 300g a deal breaker for you?

frank · Jan 19, 2017

300g, that's more than 10 oz.

quixotic · Jan 19, 2017

narsuitus said:
I have used my 28mm f/4 PC lens on the Nikon F, F2, F3, F4, N70, and EM. My personal favorite with the 28mm PC is the F4. However, my camera of choice for interior architectural is my 4x5 inch large format monorail viewfinder.

I may have to go for the f4. I actually picked up an f3 today at my favorite shop (McBain's in Red Deer, Alberta, Canada), since they had a nice one on the shelf that looked lonely. But I find that the ergonomics are terrible when I attached the heavy PC lens. And I belatedly noticed the lack of a hotshoe.

Thanks Narsuitus for the recommendation. I also have a different favorite for architecture (a Plaubel Proshift), but on an upcoming trip to Norway, it and a light meter and the viewfinder are a bit on the bulky side (If I wasn't going to have my wife tagging along, I'd probably take it, but I need something a bit quicker and lighter, and I'll also have a Sony a7s and a Fuji w3 in the same shoulder bag).

rthollenbeck · Jan 19, 2017

Why don't you just get the hotshoe adapter for the F3. It attaches on top of the rewind crank area.

rthollenbeck · Jan 19, 2017

This

Or this

quixotic · Jan 19, 2017

rthollenbeck said:
Why don't you just get the hotshoe adapter for the F3. It attaches on top of the rewind crank area.

Hmm, maybe you're right. Looks like there's a ton of as-1's and as-4's out there.

Edit: whoops, maybe it's just the as-4 and the as-17 (though the latter is relatively rare and expensive)

flavio81 · Jan 19, 2017

I liked the F2 way more than the F3. The F4 i have never tried.

I own two perspective control Nikkors and i've used them in F2,F3,FE, Nikkormats with no problems. Just meter before shifting, and watch for vignetting at wide apertures.

frank · Jan 19, 2017

The aperture preferred auto exposure of the F3 and F4 would help speed the process along as the wife waits patiently.

Ricardo Miranda · Jan 20, 2017

frank said:
as the wife waits patiently

Or husband ;-)

John_Nikon_F · Jan 20, 2017

The AS-4, AS-7, and AS-17 are the shoes for the F3. Another option, if you must have the bubble level above the eyepiece, would be to pick up a DE-5 finder. That's the one for the F3P. It sometimes surfaces by itself. Get one, replace the DE-2 or DE-3 with it, then slide your bubble level into the shoe. Only warning - if you ever decide to use a flash, don't attach it to the finder. Couple reasons why. Firstly, the meter display shuts off when a Nikon dedicated flash is attached to the DE-5's shoe and the center contact is dead, so it won't fire the flash. Secondly, even if it did work, you wouldn't have TTL flash capability. On an F3P, F3 Limited, or the F3H, the hot shoe is essentially a permanently attached AS-4.

Anyway, the F3 is a pretty decent camera. It does seem a little less balanced than other Nikon cameras that are the same weight and size (Nikkormat FTn as an example), but I like mine, even if I don't really care for the meter readout in manual mode.

-J

frank · Jan 20, 2017

Ricardo Miranda said:
Or husband ;-)

Sure! I should have said "significant other." Sorry.

quixotic · Jan 20, 2017

Any thoughts on whether a Type E or a Type R focusing screen would be best? (they're the only two which seem to have the vertical/horizontal lines that are useful for architecture).

rthollenbeck · Jan 20, 2017

There are some Beattie Intenscreens that may interest you, since some have gridwork. I've never used one in a Nikon but they are very nice in the Hassys.

narsuitus · Jan 20, 2017

For my Nikon F2, I have both. I prefer the Type R view screen with the 28mm f/4 PC because I find it easier to accurately focus with its split image focusing aid. When I was much younger, the ground matte focusing aid on the Type E screen worked better for me.

narsuitus · Jan 20, 2017

For my Nikon F4, I have a Beattie view screen that has split image, microprism, ground matte, and grid lines.

benveniste · Jan 20, 2017

First things first. If the serial number on your 28mm f/4 PC is below 179400, you can only use it safely on pre-AI bodies or bodies where you can flip up the metering tab. It is possible to grind away some of the mount so that it can be mounted safely -- John White "converted" my 35mm f/2.8 PC in this manner.

As for choice of camera, as a long time Nikon FA owner I don't think it's a great fit for a 28mm f/4 PC for a couple of reasons. First, all of the "advanced" features aren't very useful with a 28mm f/4 PC. Second, the flexible circuit board is a known weak point of the FA, and there is no practical source of spares. So buying one is even more of a gamble than the typical 30+ year old camera. If you're not planning on using the combination with flash photography, an F3 is a nice choice. But if you are, I'd suggest an FE2. The FE2 gives you a 1/250th sync speed, a greater choice of TTL compatible flashes, but only provides 92% viewfinder cover. The F3 works with older 28mm f/4 PC's and provides 100% viewfinder coverage but the sync speed is only 1/80th of a second.

The F100 is also a fine choice and can be had for under $200. But again, it's a bit of overkill, and for reasons known only to Nikon, they didn't build in a viewfinder cover. Instead you need a separate and easily lost DK-8. I think I'm on my 4th one.

frank · Jan 21, 2017

benveniste said:
First things first. If the serial number on your 28mm f/4 PC is below 179400, you can only use it safely on pre-AI bodies or bodies where you can flip up the metering tab. It is possible to grind away some of the mount so that it can be mounted safely -- John White "converted" my 35mm f/2.8 PC in this manner.

Don't fret this, OP. The pro cameras you're thinking about F4 and F3 do accept pre-Ai lenses. The AI tab flips out of the way.

"I'd suggest an FE2."
"The F100 is also a fine choice"
Does the FE2 or F100 have a flippable AI tab?

Craig · Jan 21, 2017

quixotic said:
Any thoughts on whether a Type E or a Type R focusing screen would be best? (they're the only two which seem to have the vertical/horizontal lines that are useful for architecture).

I have the E screen in my F4, and it works well. I thought the R screen was for the F3, not F4? I could be wrong, but I though the E screen was the only grid screen for the F4.

Craig · Jan 21, 2017

frank said:
." Does the FE2 or F100 have a flippable AI tab?

Somewhat amazingly, the current digital Df can accept pre AI lenses and has the flippable tab!

quixotic · Jan 21, 2017

benveniste said:
First things first. If the serial number on your 28mm f/4 PC is below 179400, you can only use it safely on pre-AI bodies or bodies where you can flip up the metering tab. It is possible to grind away some of the mount so that it can be mounted safely -- John White "converted" my 35mm f/2.8 PC in this manner.

As for choice of camera, as a long time Nikon FA owner I don't think it's a great fit for a 28mm f/4 PC for a couple of reasons. First, all of the "advanced" features aren't very useful with a 28mm f/4 PC. Second, the flexible circuit board is a known weak point of the FA, and there is no practical source of spares. So buying one is even more of a gamble than the typical 30+ year old camera. If you're not planning on using the combination with flash photography, an F3 is a nice choice. But if you are, I'd suggest an FE2. The FE2 gives you a 1/250th sync speed, a greater choice of TTL compatible flashes, but only provides 92% viewfinder cover. The F3 works with older 28mm f/4 PC's and provides 100% viewfinder coverage but the sync speed is only 1/80th of a second.

The F100 is also a fine choice and can be had for under $200. But again, it's a bit of overkill, and for reasons known only to Nikon, they didn't build in a viewfinder cover. Instead you need a separate and easily lost DK-8. I think I'm on my 4th one.

Thanks benveniste. My lens is 178___. However, the F3 I picked up has the metering tab that flips up out of the way.

I have yet to put a roll through the F3 and process it, however, I suspect that the difference in weight will keep me away from the F4...for now.

faberryman · Jan 21, 2017

My vote would be for an FM3a. It can be used in manual or aperture priority automatic. It's claim to fame is that if batteries fail, it can still be operated in full manual mode, albeit without meter.

Need help picking a Nikon SLR

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