Need help. Extrange lines in my negative.

[galupi20]

I am using Hasselblad 500 CM , HC-110 12 minutes, Kodak Rapid Fixer. Paterson Super System 4.

Thanks a lot.

 

[AgX]

Stripes of lesser densitiy, parallel to each other but not to the film edges.

My first thought is scratching at processing, moreover at squeeging.

 

[foc]

What type of negative scanner are you using?
I would agree with Agx that it looks more like a scanner problem.

 

[AgX]

Well, I did not even think of scanning.

 

[ic-racer]

I don't see a scan, looks like a photograph of the negative. Need more information on the process technique. Like how do you get the developer in the tank, and how do you agitate. How much developer? How many rolls in the tank? What kind of tank, etc.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Light on the negative eliminates some possibilities -- not parallel with the film edge kicks out others. Multiple parallel lines.

A fingertip against the emulsion side of the film while loading, but a trace of fixer on that fingertip? That would likely only be a problem if you were processing multiple tanks of film the same day...

Film squeegee or sponge scratching, or a ring with finger squeegee method, is another possibility.

 

[glbeas]

Agree, looks like a dirty squeegee.

 

[Kino]

Lines that straight and parallel are most likely an indication of a transport issue somewhere in the imaging chain.
If you used a tank to process and didn't use any sort of winding mechanism, you can probably rule that out.
120 film, correct? That would probably leave only the manufacturer, bad squeegee (if you used one) OR the camera transport mechanism.
I would tend to think it's something in the camera film path, rubbing against the film or a very damaged squeegee.
Grab a loupe and look carefully at the streaks. If there is a scratch and it's camera transport related, you can often see a start/stop place in the scratch.
If it is not a scratch, that tends to point to pressure fogging. I don't know how a squeegee would pressure fog film unless you squeegeed it prior to processing it.

OH, and the scanner part; that could do it if the streaks are not on the negative. The streaks are tilted about the same amount as the negative to the frame line.

 

[pentaxuser]

galupi20, what I see are two lines in the top half of a blank negative which are close to each other and parallel. Do these line shown up on a loupe? Any reason why the negative is blank and are the lines confined to this negative? If not confined to the one negative then on how many other exposed negatives which contain pictures are the lines and finally do the lines run through the whole film? Is this your first developed film and is this home or commercial development. If this is not your first film with this camera, is this the first fim on which these lines have appeared?

Answers to these questions may help

pentaxuser

 

[galupi20]

Just one negative developed. 500cc ( Dilution H 1:63 ) 12 minutes. Agitation : 4 slightly inverse in first 3 sec. and 1 every 30 seconds.Photo Flo 30 sec. at the end. I was using an old Paterson Film squeegee. May be this the problem.
Thanks a lot for all your answers.

 

[galupi20]

I was making my EI Film Test with Lastolite EzyBalance Grey Card. Focus at infinity.

 

[pentaxuser]

galupi it sounds as if you think the problem is solved and it was the squeegee and that's fine and you are free to decide if any of my other questions need answering but if it was the squeegee then all I will say is that I presume you have looked at the other negatives and see no lines in any of them so squeegee may be the cause or this is the only negative that has the lines such that whatever was on the squeegee after this negative then left the squeegee?

I keep on referring to other negatives because it is my understanding that the camera uses 120 roll film so I am puzzled how you have managed to develop only one negative and why you did this ?

Thanks

pentaxuser

 

[galupi20]

I will develop a new negative with same routine but without using Paterson Film squeegee and see what happen.

 

[pentaxuser]

I will develop a new negative with same routine but without using Paterson Film squeegee and see what happen.

When you say a new negative do you mean a new roll of negative film and if that is what you mean then the negative you have shown us with the lines must surely be one negative from a complete roll of negatives you developed at the same time because the Hasselblad 500CM takes 12 negatives on a 120 roll

pentaxuser

 

[Donald Qualls]

If it is not a scratch, that tends to point to pressure fogging.

Pressure fogging, like any other sort of fogging, would be dark on the negative. These marks are light on the negative, as if the emulsion had been made thinner. Pressure on the wet emulsion, short of actually tearing the gelatin, could do this.

 

[Kino]

Pressure fogging, like any other sort of fogging, would be dark on the negative. These marks are light on the negative, as if the emulsion had been made thinner. Pressure on the wet emulsion, short of actually tearing the gelatin, could do this.

Yeah, I was thinking of a positive...should have been thinking negative. So much for staying positive...

 

[galupi20]

Problem solved. Thanks to all of you. I will never use this Paterson Film Squeegee again

 

[removedacct1]

Problem solved. Thanks to all of you. I will never use this Paterson Film Squeegee again

One should never use a squeegee tool of any kind on film. It’s an invitation to disaster.

 

[Donald Qualls]

One should never use a squeegee tool of any kind on film. It’s an invitation to disaster.

That's a controversial statement. I avoid it by using a final wetting rinse mixed in RODI/distilled water, but some prefer to give their film a head start to dry faster (=> collect less dust in drying). If wetting agent rinse must be mixed with (hard) tap water, a squeegee can help reduce or eliminate drying marks from the minerals in the water (by eliminating most of the water before it can evaporate). A clean, soft rubber squeegee won't harm most films. A sponge tong seems designed to capture particles, and it's impossible to be sure it's clean. Fingers, sad to say, are probably closer to the sponge tong than a good, soft, clean squeegee.

 

[BradS]

One should never use a squeegee tool of any kind on film. It’s an invitation to disaster.

I was taught to use the squeegee that I was born with. I am pleased to report that it has not, in over forty years of use, failed me.

 

[removedacct1]

That's a controversial statement.

Only if you make it into one.

 

[foc]

As I have often said before, I have used a squeegee for 35 years in commercial processing of B&W films and I never scratched a film.
When using a squeegee, first it must be immersed in warm water with a drop of wetting agent. The blades must be clean and supple.
The squeegee should just gently"kiss" the film and in one smooth movement.

When you gouge, use dirty blades, and generally try and scrape off the emulsion, then you get the problems.

 

[Kino]

Here we go again...