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Need another body: Nikon FM2 or Nikon FM3A?

Ecstatic Roundabout

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Ecstatic Roundabout

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MIT. 25:35

MIT. 25:35

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Over the years I've gradually collected an FM (the older type with the knurled ring around the shutter release that you turn when you have the winder attached), an FM3a and a black FM2n. I have to say that I tend to gravitate towards the FM2n, not for any real reason other then everything on it feels right. I prefer match-needle metering of the FM3a just so you can see how far over and under exposed you are, but it doesn't make that much difference. I tend to use HP5 in the FM2n, provia in the FM3a, and keep the FM for more exotic films that get less use, like infra-red. I think the FM is remarkable in that the one I have must be 25-30 years old now, and was used in an industrial setting that meant it had one to two films through it per day for over 10 years, and was only serviced once, and still works perfectly. I admire that knid of engineering.
 
I first acquired an FM2n, then an FE, then an FE2, and recently a battered, but not broken, FM. I would love to have an FM3a but it seems to have a cult following which has pushed the prices way too high. They each have their own functions and attributes. IMHO the most versatile and best value is the FE2 - 90% of the functions of an FM3a for 1/3 the price, admittedly they are older but built like a tank. I prefer the match-needle system and availability of aperture priority auto in the FE2 and FE, but I tend to use the FM2n in low-light situations where the LEDs are easier to see. Hence the FM2n is usually loaded with Neopan 1600. The FE, and the FM when I get around to replacing its foam light seals, have the flip-up meter coupling lever and therefore they get used if I want to use a pre-Ai lens.
 
I have both an FM2 and an FM3A. The obvious difference is that the FM3A has automatic exposure, while still retaining the ability to shoot without batteries, which is a fairly unique property.

Less obvious differences:

The FM3A's exposure meter, with the match needle, is much better than the LEDs in the FM2. The match needle is the best method I've used, at least in my opinion.

However, the FM3A's meter is difficult to see in very low light. The FM2's LEDs are plainly visible. This gives the FM2 an advantage for low-light shooting.

The FM3A's viewfinder is slightly better/brighter.

The automatic exposure on the FM3A is handicapped by the fact that the exposure compensation control is impossible to use with the camera at your eye.

The handling is very similar and both cameras are extremely well-built, as you would expect.

If I had to choose one I'd choose the FM3A. But the FM3A's prices are higher, so there's that.
 
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