Like everybody else have mentioned already, it is to alter shutter speed or aperture. I use three varieties:
3-stop ND filter
9-stop ND filter
2-stop ND grad filter
It really is as simple as that. Once I used the 9-stop ND filter, hoping to show something underneath the water in a lake. It was windy and wavy, so the 9-stop filter, along with a polarizer and an orange filter (to cut through the blue/green water). If I remember correctly the exposure ended up being about 20 seconds. It worked, and I now have a photograph of a shipwreck that I otherwise wouldn't have.
It's a bit of a technical exercise, and you simply apply your tools to achieve what you want.
I use ND filters often. It of course depends upon the light. For me it's always the transition zone between light and dark in a scene. If shooting in a direction away from the sun I use standard Grad or ND's in 2 or 3 stop and in both soft and hard edges. If shooting towards the sun I use Reverse Grad or ND's and sometimes even stack those as required.
As I typically shoot only transparency film the exposure latitude is very narrow and the grads all help work through the shortcomings of the film.
The attached image was shot with a Reverse ND.
I use ND filters often. It of course depends upon the light. For me it's always the transition zone between light and dark in a scene. If shooting in a direction away from the sun I use standard Grad or ND's in 2 or 3 stop and in both soft and hard edges. If shooting towards the sun I use Reverse Grad or ND's and sometimes even stack those as required.
As I typically shoot only transparency film the exposure latitude is very narrow and the grads all help work through the shortcomings of the film.
The attached image was shot with a Reverse ND.
Beautiful image. Excuse my ignorance but what is a "Reverse ND"?
(I just learned about that reverse version today, and am still not sure about its use other than landscapes with the sun just above the horizon.)
Ralph's made the general usage of grads very clear in a one line sentence IMO. Well stated.It reduces light intensity where camera setting can't go any further.
I want a negative density filter which gives me more light when I put it on the lens.
I am working on that. Right now I have a prototype that increases the light by 8 times, but it has a filter factor of three stops.
I am also working on contrast filters for B&W. Filters lighten their own color and darken the opposite color. So I am working on white filters that lighten the whites (highlights) and darken the blacks (shadows), thus increasing contrast. Black filters lighten blacks and darken whites, thus decreasing contrast. But I am having trouble keeping the filter factors down with these also.
Mr Rusty I notice you are in the UK, you've got a built in ND filter where you live
I can do it when I screw a +3 dioptre close-up lens on the front of my standard 8x10 lens; a Fujinon-W 300mm f5.6. The combination becomes (approximately) a 150mm f2.8 lens that covers 4x5. That's two stops gained and a lot of image quality lost.I want a negative density filter which gives me more light when I put it on the lens.
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