Navigating Minolta Autocord choices

[Steven Lee]

I am looking for a 2nd TLR to add to my Rolleiflex. A 2nd Rolleiflex would be ideal but too expensive. I am happy with the 75mm fixed lens, I value small size above almost everything else in cameras, so the Mamiya C-series is out. Which brings me to Minolta Autocord. I suspect I am going to love that focus lever, that's why Yashicas and Rolleicords are out.

But the question is: which one? There are so many to choose from, and researching them is incredibly time consuming so I figured I'd ask here. Specifically I am interested in:

1. Quality of a focusing screen. Which ones are easier to focus with?
2. Diopter setting on a standard WLF magnifier? I need -1, the default on many cameras but not all.
3. I would prefer a meterless body.
4. Serviceability. Harry Fleenor won't touch some Rolleis, are there similar variants of Autocord to avoid?
5. Reliability. Any duds?

Thank you.

 

[Dan Daniel]

1) The stock Autocord screen is pretty much the same through out the models. Some of the earliest cameras do not have the Fresnel part- look for a central circle and if there isn't one it doesn't have the fresnel.
2) The magnifier is at one position. I do not know the diopter number for the standard magnifier lens. I've personally never seen a Minolta magnifier with a diopter marking. But as luck would have it, Rollei magnifiers fit the Autocord so you can use those if you need to change it.
3) It is easy to find meterless versions.
4) Later models with 'Citizen' shutters are prone to having the shutter explode.
5) Sure, with any 70 plus year old cameras most will have some level of problems. The core of the Autocord is the same all along. The shutters changed over time, not much else.

One thing that I have noticed in the last few years is more and more samples with bad lenses. Usually one of the interior surfaces, frosted or hazed up. Not common, but I think that cameras are coming to market that wouldn't have been sold before. So first thing to check in an ad or if you receive one and have return privileges. Especially from Japan. THere are still honest Japanese Ebay sellers, but there are also people churning basement finds. I think that the easy pickings are gone.

Seikosha-MX, no meter. 10-bladed aperture. Strong simple shutter cocking mechanism. Sorry but I don't understand many of the names used for different models- LM, MX, RII??? Got me.

But really, overall condition is the most important. Any of them can be a great camera.

 

[guangong]

Dan hit most of the key points regarding Autocord. I would add that the one universal weakness of all models is the lever focusing system. Focusing handle fits comfortably in the hand and a joy to use, but make sure there is no resistance, otherwise can break. I had one in early 1960s and lens is excellent.

 

[Steven Lee]

Thank you! Good to know that Rollei magnifiers fit, as I have the -1 spare already.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Yes, they do have a few shortcomings, but the taking lenses optical quality isn't one of them. Find one with a good, smooth focusing lever and working shutter, and you have a very fine camera. I would not go for one with either a selenium or CDS meter. Most of the meters don't work or don't work accurately. I actually like the focusing system on the Autocord better than any of my Rolleiflex cameras. Just me, of course.

 

[250swb]

Stiff focus levers are a common problem (the knob can break off), but you'll recognise stiff if you come across it as the lever isn't smooth and is unpleasant to use. And the screens aren't great but fortunately this is solved by fitting one made by Rick Oleson, I measured a full stop difference between old and new. Between my Rolleiflex and Autocord there is no perceivable difference in image quality, and both cameras are equally nice to use.

 

[xkaes]

This page might be of some use:

http://www.subclub.org/minman/mintlr.htm

 

[jgoody]

As mentioned the focus lever is very brittle -- don't try to force it or straighten it, it will break. As long as it's smoothly operating (well lubed) there should be no issues with it. There is an aftermarket replacement that can be fitted, should it break. One other note - I believe changing the ground glass involves shimming to achieve correct focus (as in most TLRs). However, all in all, it's a great camera. Not having a Rolleiflex I can't compare, but I believe it's pretty much as good as the Tessar Rolleis. The Rollei Bay 1 filters, Rolleinar Bay 1 close up lens sets (great accessory!) etc all work as the bayonet is the same.

 

[ant!]

I have the LMX version (according to http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Minolta_Autocord ). The Selenium meter even still works, I guess due to the cover. I use mostly a handheld (Minolta!) light meter instead, but I guess in ok light the build-in meter would still be fine. I like the EV system, but you can use the classic aperture & time as well (my handheld meter can show both...)
I had mine serviced a few years ago by Karl Bryan, he didn't need to touch the shutter, said the Seikosha ones usually are still good. Unfortunately, after he had worked on and lubricated the focus lever, the lever still broke off, I guess hit something in my camera bag... I still can focus with the leftover stump, but might need to ship it one day again to fix this...
I really like it! I have a fitting Rollei filter kit (black and white contrast filters, lens hood & Rolleinar 1 & 2), the Minolta Autopol polfilter attachment, but also a cheap filter adapter to 49mm filter size...

 

[250swb]

As mentioned the focus lever is very brittle -- don't try to force it or straighten it, it will break. As long as it's smoothly operating (well lubed) there should be no issues with it. There is an aftermarket replacement that can be fitted, should it break. One other note - I believe changing the ground glass involves shimming to achieve correct focus (as in most TLRs). However, all in all, it's a great camera. Not having a Rolleiflex I can't compare, but I believe it's pretty much as good as the Tessar Rolleis. The Rollei Bay 1 filters, Rolleinar Bay 1 close up lens sets (great accessory!) etc all work as the bayonet is the same.

A new screen 'may' need shimming, it isn't a given and Rick says how to do it if necessary. An easy job. On my Autocord the new screen just went in and worked.

 

[guangong]

I replaced my 1960s Minolta with a Rollei 2.8 F in early 1970s because a deal was just too good to pass up. While Rollei is a much more robust piece of equipment to than Minolta, it is also more expensive. But doubt if difference in cost translates into difference in pictures.
Focusing with Minolta feels more natural, ... unfortunate that engineering was not completely successful.

 

[Steven Lee]

I am hopeful. The thinking goes: if a focusing lever lasted 40+ years the risk of it breaking off shouldn't be too high unless the focusing mechanism is not lubricated.

 

[Dan Daniel]

I am hopeful. The thinking goes: if a focusing lever lasted 40+ years the risk of it breaking off shouldn't be too high unless the focusing mechanism is not lubricated.

Be careful about how you leave the lever. It should be left at one end or the other of its travel. Preferably the infinity end becasue that also puts the lens helical and lens board most retracted and protected. If the focus knob is in the middle, the back can swing and break it off. You'll see many Autocord knobs that are bent inwards a bit; I bet it was a back hit in many cases.

Well, any TLR is best carried and stored with the lens at infinity. Rolleis, Yashicas, on and on.

 

[Steven Lee]

@Dan Daniel I used to own a folder which required the lens to be in infinity position before folding. Somehow this habit has spread to all my cameras, so I'm well-prepared! BTW this has usability benefit with Rolleiflexes too: they get noticeably nose-heavy in hand if you don't do that.

 

[gone]

I think all the Autocord models use the same Rokkor lens, so you don't have to be concerned about that. That's a great lens. When measured against an 80 Hassy Planar I had at the time, the Autocord left out a little detail compared to the blad, but the 'cord was sharper, so it evened out.

I never got on w/ the Autocords that had a meter, or any TLR that had one. It generally added too much to the size of the camera, and it was quicker to use a handheld meter. Changing the focus screen is pretty much a DIY job on any TLR, 4 screws and you're there. But I was able to focus fine w/ the Autocord's stock screen. If you need to change one, I found scoring a larger screen w/ a box knife and snapping the excess off to be very simple.

A lot of this comes down to replacing your mirror though, another easy DIY job. You can be sure the mirror below fits. Many years ago I sent him a lot of my old TLR mirrors, and he cuts them from the originals.

Minolta Autocord Glass Replacement Mirror TLR | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Minolta Autocord Glass Replacement Mirror TLR at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[JDR]

I‘ve been using an Autocord CDS III for the past year and after a being serviced, it works perfectly. Even the meter is accurate.

 

[dxqcanada]

Minolta TLRs

Dan is correct about the focus knob ... try not to get one with the knob that is bent upwards, as the pot metal could easily break on movement. This cannot be repaired. The entire focus lever has to be replaced.

Minolta Autocord Focus Lever by

If you found this you already know what it is! I printed it using the Shapeways Steel print (Approx $20 Canadian per piece). The photos were from my first print, this uploaded print has been redesigned for better fitment and accounted for some shrinkage during the print (0.08%). I have not tried...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[Kodachromeguy]

@Dan Daniel I used to own a folder which required the lens to be in infinity position before folding. Somehow this habit has spread to all my cameras, so I'm well-prepared! BTW this has usability benefit with Rolleiflexes too: they get noticeably nose-heavy in hand if you don't do that.

Recall, folding Kodak Retina cameras also need to be at infinity to fold. And I recall the Rolleiflex case would not close if the lens was not most of the way back.