My UL 20 x 59 inch camera build in progress

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Dr Croubie

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Yeah, the only downside that I can see so far is that it's going to be hard to use front movements while looking at the GG.
Front downward tilt is what I use 8 times out of ten, the other is front rise, maybe front fall if I'm on a cliff looking down. Rarely use the rest (and I've got a monorail, I can do anything).
So is it going to be a 2-person focussing job, one calling out to the other? Or just rear tilt and put up with a bit of skew?
Actually, I didn't see, can anything move at all?
 
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Dogumentor

Dogumentor

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I appreciate all your comments, keep'em coming.

Transport box is the actual box you see with the bellow inside, all parts except the two folding stands will fit in that box. The lens is separately packed in its own box.

As for focus, have a look at the picture below, on the right is the focus wheel, attached to a long threaded rod, in the center is a captured nut which is attached to what I call the focus train. This focus train is made of heavy duty drawer guides used in furniture. It turns smooth, slow and a bit stiff but has absolutely no backlash (Spiel). In fact that simple mechanism is so good, I do not need to lock it when focus is achieved, it stands rock solid by itself.

There will be some you tube video in the future, setting up the camera by one man and showing the simple features.

Front downward tilt of lens board is not necessary, according to to photographer. We discussed that in detail but because the lens has such an ultra wide angle, only up and down of the lens board is needed. This is a landscape shooting monster.

The two folding stands are also not height adjustable, but I have some leg extensions that can be attached if needed. For time being, we just need to contend with what is allowed to do and make improvements from there. Again, because of the ultra wide angle, minor height adjustments or 'leveling out' will move the subject on the screen quite a bit. We just have to make-do.

It is possible for two people to lift the whole camera around, I guess the weight to be at 60 Kg.

attachment.php

The captured nut is attached to a U-shaped structure attached to two rails with movable drawer guides, which I call the focus train.( or carriage?)
Feel free to correct me on proper terminology where needed.

attachment.php

The U-shaped structure is slotted along each length and secured by toggle screws. The lens board is bolted to the drawer guide rail this will allow the lens to be moved quickly to any position. (loosen toggle-slide board carriage front or back-lock toggles) These toggles also have multiple positions along the rail. Fine tuning can then be made from the wheel below the viewing screen.

Cheers
 

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blindpig

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Super job! the whole thing is a work of art.Can't wait to see pictures taken with this beauty.
 
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Dogumentor

Dogumentor

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Thanks Rich,

One point I try to make with this camera project is: Don't be afraid to do things you have never done before.
I would not have build this camera if not given circumstances just happened to come my way, and the photographer wanting it would not have it either if not met up with me. In fact the proposal was put forward to others before and didn't evolve.

I have darkroom experience from my teen years, long time ago. Since then I worked mostly with wood, one time had my own factory. Being constantly financially constraint, I learned to build jigs to facilitate my works. Through this experience I learned to match common hardware into some incredible contraptions. Later I graduated to out fit a high precision spindle motor repair facility where 1 mu seemed a lot and the workshop was a clean-tech outfit. A big difference as you might see.

This camera was also not to build a bigger or biggest camera than others. Its film size resembles a standard Chinese Landscape print, and that is exactly the reason for the Ultra wide angle lens matched for it. In fact, the camera turned out to be larger in size than we thought, as we learned to build it up from the film holder.

We are making small progress with darkroom out fit and print tests, but have not yet taken an actual picture with the camera. Exposure is done by: Iris closed--front cap off--iris open--exposure--iris closed--front cap on. The front cap is screwed on and very hard to match to the lens thread. Maybe I should make a simple guillotine shutter or a rubber front cap.

There will be new snags as it evolves but we never give up, a solution is always on the horizon, and posting it all here gives us valuable information as well.

Cheers
 

FoidPoosening

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Just discovered and read this whole thread from start to finish. Realized the last post was in 2014. Whatever happened to this?
 

Bob Carnie

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Rollie and Ilford can make 20 inch x 100 ft film that you could use.. ortho25
 
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This is just epic! But like others have mentioned above, what ever happened to this build? Id love to see the finished product and the images it can create!
 

TheoULF

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Hi all,

unusual circumstances have propelled me into building a rather large format camera film size 50 cm by 150 cm, (almost 20 by 59 inches). The building has already taken 2nd stage and progressed substantially, more can be found on my web here http://cargocollective.com/martinzaugg/ultra-large-format-camera

Please feel free and give your feed back, both good and bad.

Cheers all
Martin aka Dogumentor


Hi Martin,
Congratulations ! Really a great project, your ULFcamera! I have learned a lot of your project by studying your posts and pictures. The "gearing" of the front/back standarts looks fine. I 'll use similar on my microULF (12x16").
At least I would like to know if you use othe lenses than the 1000mm ? Meniscus lenses?
Best Regards
Theo
 

esearing

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Did you ever consider just constructing a small portable room you can stand in and put the film holder area on the back wall (IE camera obscura) . Lens focus could be sliding box method. This would allow you to use multiple formats as well.
 

FFullam

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I was tracking this project a few years ago and understand that this camera took one panoramic photo - of the skyline - as a paper negative. A great image. Then the project ended. I am not sure the Dream Community, the organization that sponsored it, is still in operation.

I acquired the custom made 1000mm wide angle lens. I have lenses that are sharper but none that have a wider view. I have access to a roll of Tri-X to take a negative for it's full intended size. I completely understand Martin's wisdom of making the film holder first and then build the camera around that. I have build a ULF camera in the past with foam board and duct tape so I would probably go that route or built a tent as mentioned above in a previous comment.

The biggest challenge is to first figure out what photograph. What subject would benefit from the restrictions and constraints of the camera? I am giving this thought.
 

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138S

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still to solve: Initially we intend to produce our own film (thin paper) with light sensitive chemicals for the negative

It can also be a paper Positive, paper development can also be reversal, obtaining a direct image. If using VC paper a yellow filter would decrease excessive sensitometric contrast and extend latitude.

Another way would be making dry plates with commercial emulsion (Rollei Black Magic Variable Contrast Liquid Photo Emulsion) or with reckipes founs in The Light Fram. Dry plates can also be reversal processed.

Reversal processing is challenging because the direct image is mostly definitive, but this is also nice !!!

Nice work ! Congratulations !
 

FFullam

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To my knowledge, this is the only full sized photo the camera took before the project ended. This is a reverse of a paper negative. I will try to find a suitable subject for the lens to honor the spirit of the original project.



twlns2.png
 
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Ha, I wish I'd been on this forum back when this thread was started, I happened to be in Taipei at the time, would have loved to see that behemoth.
 
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