Very nice set up. You could bring that grain down a few notches with a different developer.
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Watch for the MX winder. They're typically not too expensive, and add a little added mass and bulk, and make for me at least vertical shooting easier. Do know that the little wheel to access the four AA cells to power the winder threads into the plastic of the winder and can be easily stripped out. Bad design, Pentax! The ME winder has a far better battery tray, as does the winder for the LX. And BTW, the right angle finder for the Olympus OM cameras will fit the MX and the MEs, and may be cheaper. Since you've got the Tamron macro the right angle finder would make those ground level closeups much easier. If you decide to sell that Tamron, let me know....
Developer choices for me right now is primarily sprint, hc-110, or the stock microphen I mixed a couple weeks ago and stashed in the campus darkroom. There's also a crap load of FG-7 concentrate in the back room next to all the microphen boxes. In a nutshell that's all at my deposal as the school switched to using sprint cubes for all the class work, I'm the only one using the huge print dryer with the 26 feet belt as well since I'm the only only printing fiber based paper as well (some 1950s stock, and some warm tone Ilford semi mat fb 8x10).
Essentially I want to stick with what I have access to, that won't exhaust in less than a week after mixing.
Actually Sprint is a very good developer. e.g. I prefer it over Xtol and D76 for FP4.
I didn't care for the grain shape it produced when I tried HP5+ with it (I only have a couple of those rolls). Do you perhaps have a different inversion process when you're using it? Here we just do the standard 1:9 dilution, and has us do constant agitation the full first minute, and then just 5~10 seconds each minute after. HP5+ if I recall was about 10 minutes I think on the chart.
Though when I look up the the actual website for them, it's only 15 seconds initially, with a single inversion every minute after.
Maybe I should try it again with this roll of HP5+ I got 4 frames left to do (mostly focusing test on a tripod with my 50/1.4, 85/1.4 and 90/2.8 1:1 Macro, with a couple of the shots near 1:1).
I came late to the Pentax system after being a user of Canon and Nikon. But little by little i'm becoming a Pentax fan.
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Dilution is 1:9. I agitate for 30 sec initially then 2 inversions every 30 sec at 20 deg C. The times on the bottle or box are fine. I use 10 min for FP4+ at 20 deg C.
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Going to try the box specs this afternoon so I can see what I get. We have these huge cubes of Sprint, since for the developer, we just measure right off the tap of the cube, and discard after the one-shot use. For the rest of the sprint cubes we make large tanks of the stop, fix, fix remover, that we dump back into the top until the whole thing is exhausted. (though on the print side, we dump the trays at the end of the night rather than reuse, but we don't use fixer remover on the print side, same sprint chemistry though).
When it comes to older film cameras, I tend to have a inclination to go with one that uses purely mechanical shutters.
Usually, electronic cameras (purely electronic shutter) rely on less mechanical parts, and in my view this makes them more reliable and easier to service. I, contrary of what many people think here, feel camera electronics are highly reliable, at least once you get past the era of old, "early" camera electronics (i.e. Pentax Electro Spotmatic).
Frame 1 : 1/125 f/2.2 50mm
Meter shows green in center of frame
Prints on the wall.
Focus using split on edge of print on Wall.
Frame 2 : same but with 85mm
Frame 3 : same as 2, portrait orientation, focus split prism on edge of flower and bowl prints.
Frame 4&5 (50mm): 1/250 f/1.4 meter shows half a stop over (1/124 would be half under)
Focus on edge of ruler. First one by microprism, second by split and micro really close.
Frame 6 and 7
1/125 & 1.4
1/60 & 2.2
Meter green on both checker shots.
Split focus on #5 on right edge of circle
Microprism focus on neon sign towards left of word got #6
Frame 8 - 16 (50mm f/1.4)
Focus on second thumbtack at the metal pin, via horizontal split prism
Incident Meter Reading 1/1,000 @ f/1.4 for ISO 400, shooting +1 over.
Frame 8: 1/500th @ f/1.4
Frame 9: 1/250th @ f/2
Frame 10: 1/125 @ f/2.8
Frame 11: 1/60 @ f/4
Frame 12: 1/30 @ f/5.6
Frame 13: 1/15 @ f/8
Frame 14: 1/8 @ f/11
Frame 15: 1/4 @ f/16
Frame 16: 1/2 @ f/22
Frame 17: (90mm f/2.8 Macro 1:1)
1/500 @ f/2.8 (incident metered to the same)
Focus on center thumbtack with split right on the metal barrel/shaft.
Frame 18 : 1/500 f/2.8 (closer crop, focus approx 0.305 meter)
Frame 19: 1/1,000 f/2.8
Frame 20: 1/250 f/2.8
Focus on closest strip of paper towards lens. Focus approx 0.33m
Frame 21: 1/250 f/2.8 (incident meter reads 10EV + 2/3, so barely 1/3 under, reflective shows 1/2 under light)
Focus on grid directly behind all paper strips, 0.34m
Frame 22: 1/250 f/2.8 (reflective shows green)
Focus on closest strip of paper towards lens on top of wood
TTL Meter shows green for 1/250 @ f/8
Frame 23 : 1/250 f/8
Frame 24 : 1/125 f/8 (+1 over previous, shows +1/2 over on LED)
Focus on wood grain (Incident shows 1/250 @ f/5.6 , EV13)
*almost* 1:1 life-size, reflective shows -1 (red) LED for 1/125 @ f/8
Focusing attempt was primarily between the matte and micro prism ring. Split was getting difficult to eyeball exactly.
Frame 25: 1/125 f/8
Frame 26: 1/125 f/5.6
Frame 27: 1/125 f/4
*Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 from this point*
Frame 28:
Incident meter shows 9-2/3~ 10EV (1/500, f/1.4)
Reflective says +1 stop over (top red LED)
1/500 f/1.4
Focus via micro prism ring on the chrome trim in the middle of the Pentax-50/1.4 lens.
Frame 29: 1/500 f/4 (Same as above, but with green Reflective LED, which brings it to exposed for the background)
Frame 30: Selfie attempt with timer
1/125 @ f/2.8, pre-focused on ledge of window still, then re-composed.
Frame 31: Drawings on hallway, Focus on left edge of the 4th drawing on the bottom row. Roughly split and micro prism seem to match on the vertical.
1/125 @ f/2.8
Reflective meter was put at +1/2 overexposed at the area of the drawings, when recomposing with the shadow area in the center of the frame, meter showed green LED.
Frame 33: 1/250 f/1.4 (meter green at center)
Frame 34: 1/125 2.2 (meter green on brown top portion)
Frame 35:
Focus on second hanging light closest to lens
1/125 2.2
Set meter to show red (-1) on a black painted podium/stand.
Looking forward to see your results and findings with the SA-3 focusing screen.
And the one electronically timed shutter manual focus body I did have briefly was an AE-1 that suffered the squeaky death which didn't seem to be self-serviceable.
Only issue I can see just from the small previews of the second test roll, is I think there's a possibility that f/22 isn't being fully stopped down (like it's no narrower than f/16) on frame 16.
Those scans up top are really good for a cheap flatbed. Got any secrets?
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