I purchased rolleiflex 2.8E in unknown working condition and when it arrived it was in good cosmetic condition but it had been dropped or bump very hard on the aperture ring side. After hours and hours of working on it fixing the focus, shutter and faceplate I shot a test roll which is drying as I write this. Looking at the negatives by eye only they look well exposed and spacing looks good. This is the most I have stripped down a Rolleiflex and learned a lot along the way. One thing that stood out was that on the bracket that rides along the focusing cam there is some sort of material that rides the cam. Mine was gone so I made one from a nylon part that's used in copiers. I didn't know how big it should be so I thought I would guess. After the focus, shutter, faceplate straightened and disabling the EV systems so it's now a D and not an E and checking infinity focus using my digital camera I am impatiently waiting for the film to dry. I figure I was paid about 10 cents an hour but loved every minute of it and if it works that's even better.
My journey to fix Rolleiflex 2.8E
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- Thread starter campy51
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Mine was the other side and the piece I made is about that size.
How did you get the nylon piece to stay in- heat, or clamping by bending the bottom up? I've used heat in the past but am not certain if it is the best way.
And do you have any opinion on materials for this function? I have some UHMW polyethylene around and that's my fall back for bearing surfaces. But maybe nylon would be better?
And do you have any opinion on materials for this function? I have some UHMW polyethylene around and that's my fall back for bearing surfaces. But maybe nylon would be better?
I just place the piece in there, I am hoping just the pressure will hold it. I think it's just there so no metal on metal rubbing against each other, but I am new to this so I really don't know. I did have to file the top of it so the top curved cam would ride over it. I don't know how long this will last but I don't plan on selling the camera as a well working camera. It would be a good parts camera because of the Xenotar lens with not too much cleaning scratches. At least I don't think it will have any effect on the photos.
Impressive if it works. Perhaps you could do repairs for others 
(for a fee of course)
(for a fee of course)
Stick with it, you'll only get better with each session!
I scanned some more and on my screen they are not that impressive at all, but if I print them 4x6 they look great. How do I get them to look as good onscreen?
Look at the negatives directly through a magnifier glass to see what the real quality is of the image. Now this starts heading into scanning techniques which are probably closer to that which shall not be named on the analog side of things here, but often some sharpening is needed for scans straight away. Unsharp mask .9 radius/150% factor/1 threshold. Most print programs throw some sharpening on the files.
Looks darn nice and looks very sharp and great tonality. Enjoy shooting with it.
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