My first shot at Thiocarbamide toning

[Mainecoonmaniac]

I like the look, but I'm going for a more subtle warmth. I think I might have to dilute the bleach more. But I like it because the process has no sulphery stench.

 

[john_s]

I posted something (below) but I've remembered a web site that's more up to date that might help you adjust the tone of your prints. It has an advantage over the older post in that the chemicals are adjusted in strength, rather than using different ones:

http://www.wynnwhitephoto.com/toning.html

Let us know how it goes.


Older information:
I copied this from Ryuji Suzuki's website, and I think the info came from Richard Knoppow. Anyway, it might give you some ideas for some controls over colour.

Defender Varigam toner

It is a group of toner formulas published in the early 1940's by the Defender Company3, makers of sheet film and paper for use with Varigam, the first variable contrast paper on the American market (the very first VC paper was made by Ilford). This was a neutral tone paper so these formulas should work on a variety of current papers.

There are three variations of bleach and three redevelopers.

Bleach B-1
Water 500.0 ml
Potassium ferricyanide 22.0 gm
Potassium bromide 25.0 gm
Water to make 1.0 liter

Bleach B-2
Water 500.0 ml
Potassium ferricyanide 22.0 gm
Potassium Iodide 10.0 gm
Water to make 1.0 liter

Bleach B-3
Water 500.0 ml
Potassium ferricyanide 22.0 g
Sodium chloride 35.0 g
Nitric acid 15.0 ml
Water to make 1.0 liter

(Treat the nitric acid with caution.)

Bleach in one of the above bleaches for twice the time it takes to convert the black image. The prints should then be washed in three changes of water or until any yellow stain from the bleach is removed.

The prints are then re-developed in one of the following re-developing baths. Redevelop until toning is complete.

Toner T-1
Water 500.0 ml
Thiourea 3.0 g
Sodium hydroxide 6.0.g
Water to make 1.0 liter

(Treat the Hydroxide with caution, it evolves considerable heat when dissolving and can cause severe chemical burns on contact with the skin.)

Toner T-2
Water 500.0 ml
Thiourea 3.0 gm
Sodium carbonate 45.0 gm
Water to make 1.0 liter

Toner T-3
Water 500.0 ml
Thiourea 44.0 gm
Potassium carbonate 48.0 gm
Water to make 1.0 liter

Various combinatins of bleach and toner will give different tones as shown by the following table:

Bleach in Tone in Resulting Tone
B-3 T-1 Deep brown, slight purplish tint
B-1 T-1 Deep brown
B-2 T-3 warmth of golden tinge
B-2 T-2 a little colder than above

Increasing warmth with a golden tinge till a bright sunlit type of Sepia is produced with the B-3 - T-3 combination. T-2 can be used instead of T-3 but it gives a little colder color and is given as an alternative when Potassium carbonate is not available.

All formulas to be used full strength.

Richard Knoppow's note: The above table is copied from the original and refers to the Varigam paper of nearly sixty years ago. The tones produced with modern papers may be quite different. Thiourea (thiocarbamide) makes an odorless redeveloper but is now considered to be a carcinogen so should be handled with care.

 

[doughowk]

I was having problems understanding Rudman's guidelines, but White's article helped. For bleach step I doubled the water thereby allowing greater control when pulling. For re-development step, I've been using the 10ml solution A to 50ml solution B for its purplish-brown appearance.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Thanks John for the info

I posted something (below) but I've remembered a web site that's more up to date that might help you adjust the tone of your prints. It has an advantage over the older post in that the chemicals are adjusted in strength, rather than using different ones:

http://www.wynnwhitephoto.com/toning.html

Let us know how it goes.

I really appreciate the information. I finally looked at the dried prints and they look pretty good. I didn't know that thiocarbamide is a carcinogen. I'm going be very careful in handling it.

Best,
Don