Mumbo Jumbo developers?

[Paul Howell]

Here in the U.S Photographer's Formulary sells a version D23 with a replenisher. It is a kit, not sure if Freestyle carries it or not.

Film Developer 23

Developer 23 Film Photography Chemicals

stores.photoformulary.com

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

I have always found PMK distinctive for a lot of work, I use it all the time and sometimes revert back to ID11

Hi Bob,

What differences do you observe when printing a PMK processed negative compared with an ID11 developed negative?
I'm assuming that you use ID11 diluted rather than stock.

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

You can't really buy that one, can you? Which is to say, I'm sure someone, somewhere probably offers 'kits' of two bags, but it doesn't seem a commonly carried item at most photographic outlets.

Well, it is available on B&H

Photographers' Formulary Film Developer 23 (to Make 4L)

 

[Augustus Caesar]

Is there really much to be gained from Pyro , FX 55, and other mix yourself etc developers over stock developers such as ID11, Microdol X , Accufine ,etc?

The best developers are usually, but not always, proprietary. Many published formulas are capable of results that leave nothing to be desired. Some companies have disclosed formulas for developers that they no longer manufacture. FX-15 is one I can think of.

 

[Melvin J Bramley]

Don't forget PRICE -- that's the kicker for me. Maybe 10% of the cost of the name brands. Sure, there are upfront costs, and different approaches/gear, but well worth it -- unless this is just "something to do this summer".
Plus, you get to know exactly how much of what is in the mix -- and the quality of the chemicals is up to you.
And you save even more $$$$ when you realize you only needed to mix 20 ounces for the job -- instead of an entire gallon.

That makes sense.

 

[koraks]

Well, it is available on B&H

Thanks; @Paul Howell also pointed out that Formulary apparently makes it. We don't get that here in Europe so I had never seen it.

 

[pentaxuser]

You can't really buy that one, can you? Which is to say, I'm sure someone, somewhere probably offers 'kits' of two bags, but it doesn't seem a commonly carried item at most photographic outlets.

Well I, like you, didn't think you could buy it either but someone I see has produced evidence to the contrary, at least in the U.S. which is where the OP is from

However I had thought that the OP was referring to price versus inconvenience and outcome In that matter the one "home-brew" that stands out for me is D23

pentaxuser

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

Thanks; @Paul Howell also pointed out that Formulary apparently makes it. We don't get that here in Europe so I had never seen it.

Yeah sorry, didnt saw you where on Europe so you comment make sense.

 

[Carnie Bob]

Hi Bob,

What differences do you observe when printing a PMK processed negative compared with an ID11 developed negative?
I'm assuming that you use ID11 diluted rather than stock.

I notice much better highlight and upper mid tone separation when using PMK , I believe due to the hardening effect. I use ID11 when I feel the negatives may need a push in development. I have found that PMK only works well with overexposure at time of imaging, for other scenes I revert to ID11.

 

[Pioneer]

I know I always have fresh developer. Do you?

 

[BobUK]

From the late sixties to a couple of years ago I have regularly been throwing away half bottles of stale commercial developers.
The last straw was when the lock downs started.
I greedily stockpiled film, paper, developers and fixers.
Way too much developer for my usage.
After finally pouring away the last of my stale developer I started in on home made developers.
I cannot recall wasting any cash and developer since I got hooked on d.i.y. chemistry.

Perhaps not the answer to the original question, but now I can try out different developers without having to fork out on full bottles of developer that may not be to my taste.

 

[Mark J]

I've used PMK almost exclusively since 1998. Before that I'd spent about 10 years using a variety of the normal liquid and powder developers , the penultimate was 1+2 Perceptol. It was the smoothness and detail in the highlights that impressed me. I am aiming to reprint and scan two negs from 1998 soon, to help illustrate what I mean, this sort of question comes up so regularly.

 

[chuckroast]

Is there really much to be gained from Pyro , FX 55, and other mix yourself etc developers over stock developers such as ID11, Microdol X , Accufine ,etc?

You can get very good results with standard, manufactured developers. IMHO people should master one of these before trying any roll-your-owns.

But mixing your own developers opens up an entire new world for tweaking things - for better or worse. It is also much, much, much cheaper than buying premade, at least in nations where chemistry is readily available at good prices.

I started out with Microdol-X and D-76. Well ... I actually started out with Dektol in a Tri-Chem pack, but that's an entirely different story.

I eventually moved to HC-110 because that's what all the Kool Zone Photographers were doing.

Then, I discovered PMK Pyro. To this day, it remains my favorite for photographs with clouds because of the distinct edge effects it provides.

Then, I discovered DK-50 which I played with for a while to understand what our grandfathers were using.

Then I discovered roll-your-own D-23 and Pyrocat-HD and this, in turn, fired off a multi-year exploration of still/standing/low agitation, high dilution development.

I'd say that D-23 and Pyrocat-HD are the most versatile of all developers I've tried. They can be used in so many different ways and diluted so many different ways, they constitute a family of choices. I've never tried Rodinal, but I'm told it's much the same story there as well.

tl;dr Learn one developer and one film REALLY well, they change one or the other to try different things.

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

I notice much better highlight and upper mid tone separation when using PMK , I believe due to the hardening effect. I use ID11 when I feel the negatives may need a push in development. I have found that PMK only works well with overexposure at time of imaging, for other scenes I revert to ID11.

Thanks Bob,

I always down rate film speeds a bit anyway, as I find it gives me better tonality. I usually use D76 diluted 1+1.
Also, I'm not a slave to development charts.
Maybe one day I will try PMK out of curiosity just to see how it compares.

 

[Richard Jepsen]

I have mixed my own chemistry in the past, have an old Kodak balance scale. Here in the Phoenix Metro area there are few providers of raw chemistry and most only sell wholesale, paying for shipping brings the price up to the point that I would just rather buy prepared developers. The quest on OP asked maybe more do with why a specialized developer like Pyro or a FX type rather than one that be found in most retail stores or online. Is there any significant difference between Pyro and Xtol or D76 and Edwal 12? I would say yes, but a very narrow yes. Pyro, do we need Pyro when you can split print a high contrast negative?

Paul gave the definitive answer. Perhaps the exception is users who consume large quantities. For the weekend photographer finding a reasonable lasting developer will do. 1L packaging generally fits the weekend shooters needs. XTOL or a clone in appropriate hard plastic soda bottles will last near 1 year if not longer. HC-110 type developer is long lasting. Rodinal is an option if one is not looking for a general purpose developer…works best with 120 film. Also Rodinal can have SS added to smooth the grain and avoid the small speed loss. XTOL diluted 1:3 is very sharp and competes with other sharpness enhancing developers.

 

[Carnie Bob]

Thanks Bob,

I always down rate film speeds a bit anyway, as I find it gives me better tonality. I usually use D76 diluted 1+1.
Also, I'm not a slave to development charts.
Maybe one day I will try PMK out of curiosity just to see how it compares.

If you try PMK my advise is to overexpose 1 stop and split the developer time into two distinct developments, for me its 1 litre of fresh chem 7 min , then a second 7 min of dev with fresh dev. this is for rotation agitation, also I do a 15 - 20 second of hand inversion and twist before it goes on the machine for any developer I use.

 

[albireo]

This seems to be a good place to ask about FX-39 II. I've been given an unopened bottle of this and don't know anything about it.

The blurb doesn't really help

The best things in life are analog | FX-39

Paterson ACU FX-39 developer

www.adox.de

Those of you who know this product or Neofin Red - what does it do well? What does it do not so well? If you prefer it to Xtol/D76/Rodinal, what do you prefer it to, and for what?

 

[Alan Johnson]

This seems to be a good place to ask about FX-39 II. I've been given an unopened bottle of this and don't know anything about it.

The blurb doesn't really help

The best things in life are analog | FX-39

Paterson ACU FX-39 developer

www.adox.de

Those of you know know this product or Neofin Red - what does it do well? What does it do not so well? If you prefer it to Xtol/D76/Rodinal, what do you prefer it to, and for what?

This from Geoffrey Crawley, BJP March 23 96 p24, re the related FX-37:
"Other than a very modest solvent effect also opposes the qualities conferred by modern emulsion technology and more adversely affects sharpness and definition than in traditional emulsions. If grain is too fine light scatter in the image increases when a negative is enlarged ,reducing edge contrast of subject contours and especially that of fine detail. As a result, print impact is decreased....
The answer has been to use dilute developers, those containing a fairly low concentration of developing agent(s) in an active ,relatively highly alkaline solution. Many of these belong to the family sired by the classic formula of Willi Beutler. So, more sophisticated versions have been marketed, specially designed to relate to new films. This evolution is necessary because, if the approach is overdone, the tendency to compress tonal separation may be more obvious...."

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

If you try PMK my advise is to overexpose 1 stop and split the developer time into two distinct developments, for me its 1 litre of fresh chem 7 min , then a second 7 min of dev with fresh dev. this is for rotation agitation, also I do a 15 - 20 second of hand inversion and twist before it goes on the machine for any developer I use.

Thanks again Bob, I will make a note of that.

 

[Vaughn]

I am developing for two alternative processes. Both processes use UV light for the exposure. The UV-blocking stain created by the various Pyro developers is beneficial in these types of processes. The amount of staining increases as the amount of exposed/developed silver increases -- highlights will have more staining (and more UV blocking) than lower tones, giving a smooth boost in contrast from shadows to highlights. I use Pyrocat HD.

But staining developers have a habit of also staining any base fog of old films, increasing printing times. I have found that a few silver gelatin paper developers work extremely well for developing sheet film for my printing. Dektol, which was a universal (paper/film) developer at one time, and Ilford PQ Universal Developer that I use in various dilutions (1:19 to paper strength, 1:9) to match the SBR and the process.

The large range of values these processes can pull out of a negative means that in most situations I am looking for film/developer combinations that can expand the SBR in a way I can take advantage of with the printing process (carbon and platinum printing). I have some old Kodak Pro Copy Film, which if carefully handled can make beautiful high contrast negatives from low contrast situations. All my work is contact printed -- so grain generally is not an issue.

So while I do use off-the-shelf products, I sometimes use them off-lable.

Below...Girders, Golden Gate Bridge, from Top of Fort Point. 4x10 negative, 300mm lens, film developed is straight Dektol. Wind was blowing hard!

 

[snusmumriken]

From the late sixties to a couple of years ago I have regularly been throwing away half bottles of stale commercial developers.
The last straw was when the lock downs started.
I greedily stockpiled film, paper, developers and fixers.
Way too much developer for my usage.
After finally pouring away the last of my stale developer I started in on home made developers.
I cannot recall wasting any cash and developer since I got hooked on d.i.y. chemistry.

Perhaps not the answer to the original question, but now I can try out different developers without having to fork out on full bottles of developer that may not be to my taste.

Ditto, except I stopped buying commercial developers about 20 years ago when my favourite one went out of production.

 

[Vaughn]

Ditto, except I stopped buying commercial developers about 20 years ago when my favourite one went out of production.

Understand. One of the (many) reasons I learned carbon printing around 30 years ago was that my favorite silver gelatin paper radically changed then went out of production (Portriga Rapid III).