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Melvin J Bramley

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Is there really much to be gained from Pyro , FX 55, and other mix yourself etc developers over stock developers such as ID11, Microdol X , Accufine ,etc?
 

Vaughn

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Can be.
 

MattKing

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Where can you find Microdol X that isn't mix it yourself? :smile:
If you can access easily and economically high quality and consistent supplies of the constituent components - not always easy in the Canadian marketplace - than mix it yourself allows you to make just the amount you need, meaning there is no need to make more than you can use before it deteriorates.
 

xkaes

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Don't forget PRICE -- that's the kicker for me. Maybe 10% of the cost of the name brands. Sure, there are upfront costs, and different approaches/gear, but well worth it -- unless this is just "something to do this summer".
Plus, you get to know exactly how much of what is in the mix -- and the quality of the chemicals is up to you.
And you save even more $$$$ when you realize you only needed to mix 20 ounces for the job -- instead of an entire gallon.
 

Milpool

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Is there really much to be gained from Pyro , FX 55, and other mix yourself etc developers over stock developers such as ID11, Microdol X , Accufine ,etc?

In terms of “gain”, not really. In a few cases there can be meaningful differences, but many of the mix-it-yourself developers range from slapdash/half-baked to redundant/superfluous. Even so, it can be fun to try things just to experiment.

You can also home-mix a range of Kodak, Ilford etc. published film and print developers, most of which are straight forward to make and a few of which can be very simple (while being as good as or better than fancy concoctions). D-23 is an example.

Familiarize yourself with basic good mixing practices and safety. That’s about all there is to it.
 
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john_s

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I continue to be delighted by the fancy concoction, Pyrocat-HD. And now that Ilford have discontinued the larger pack of Microphen, I can mix ID-68 for 85% less than the Ilford 1Litre pack.
 

Paul Howell

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Here in the U.S Photographer's Formulary sell Pyro, FX MCM 100, Edwal 12, Dk50, and number of other developers that are no longer available from Kodak, Edwal or other photochemical manufacturing folks. Microdol X is sold by Freestyle under it's Legacy label. For some mixing D76, Ansco 17 or another developer is about cost, others just enjoy the process.
 

eli griggs

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A.A. would add some Amidol (a pinch) to Ansco 130, at times and that's just one tiny mention of the vast experience that other photographers have learned through mixing their own variations of paper and film developers.

Caffenol with Vitamin C, Parrodinal, and "teaspoon" Developers can deliver really good results, not things you'll generally find in a manufacturer's packaging, and they will allow you to tweak them to your own taste or needs; in short, your darkroom Kung Fu will become all the stronger for using them and similar.

IMO and,
Cheers.
 
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Mostly my gain is having fresh developer when I want to use it. Also, prepare odd quantities. I don't like having a full gallon of D-76 getting old, instead I prepare 300ml (if developing a 35mm roll) or 500mm (for a 120 roll), so much the same about why I bulk load 35mm (load 12 exp if it suits my mood).
 

koraks

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Is there really much to be gained from Pyro , FX 55, and other mix yourself etc developers over stock developers such as ID11, Microdol X , Accufine ,etc?

No.
It can be fun, though, and overall costs can be lower depending on how you source the raw ingredients. But objective gains are really debatable at best.
 

Andrew O'Neill

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Probably not much of a difference in image appearance but...I prefer to mix up my own developers like Pyrocat-HD for the sake of economy and freshness. Costs and arm and a leg to bring it up premixed from the US, and I have heard stories of it failing for some users. I also like the fact that a few basic chemicals will make several different developers.
 

Paul Howell

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No.
It can be fun, though, and overall costs can be lower depending on how you source the raw ingredients. But objective gains are really debatable at best.

This is true, grain, speed, and contrast are baked into a film, developers can enhance one characteristic over another, such as gain size or acuance, but not will turn Tmax 100 into TriX.
 
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Probably not much of a difference in image appearance but...I prefer to mix up my own developers like Pyrocat-HD for the sake of economy and freshness. Costs and arm and a leg to bring it up premixed from the US, and I have heard stories of it failing for some users. I also like the fact that a few basic chemicals will make several different developers.


+1 on the last statement. I use Sodium Sulfite and Phenidone on 3 of my most used developers so I keep those in stock.
 

koraks

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This is true, grain, speed, and contrast are baked into a film, developers can enhance one characteristic over another, such as gain size or acuance, but not will turn Tmax 100 into TriX.

Precisely.

At the same time, also this:
Probably not much of a difference in image appearance but...I prefer to mix up my own developers like Pyrocat-HD for the sake of economy and freshness. Costs and arm and a leg to bring it up premixed from the US, and I have heard stories of it failing for some users. I also like the fact that a few basic chemicals will make several different developers.

- and I agree with the emphasis added by @Marcelo Paniagua above as well. For me, the arguments of flexibility (few ingredients make hundreds of different developers to play with), storage (mix only what's needed so it doesn't go bad) and ultimately cost as well. But I admit that the cost factor really only comes into play if you want to experiment with lots of developers. If you settle on one and pick a reasonably economic one, you're not saving all that much by DIY-ing, unless you developer a LOT of film & paper.
 

juan

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Any developer I want to use has to be ordered and shipped from somewhere. Some big photo stores won't ship some developers. I might as well order dry chemicals and save the cost of shipping water.
 
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Any developer I want to use has to be ordered and shipped from somewhere. Some big photo stores won't ship some developers. I might as well order dry chemicals and save the cost of shipping water.
Also some chemicals may be sourced locally, depending on the developer you use. I source borax, sodium bicarbonate, ascorbic acid (vitamin c), paracetamol, sodium hydroxide,etc. locally.
 
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Also, if you understand the effect/job of each component (developer, restrainer, anti oxidant, etc.) you may tweek the developer formula to suit your needs. Steven Anchell "The Darkroom Cookbook" is an essential reading for this.

I dont usually do this, just follow the formula, but there is the option if you are so inclined.

Marcelo
 

Paul Howell

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I have mixed my own chemistry in the past, have an old Kodak balance scale. Here in the Phoenix Metro area there are few providers of raw chemistry and most only sell wholesale, paying for shipping brings the price up to the point that I would just rather buy prepared developers. The quest on OP asked maybe more do with why a specialized developer like Pyro or a FX type rather than one that be found in most retail stores or online. Is there any significant difference between Pyro and Xtol or D76 and Edwal 12? I would say yes, but a very narrow yes. Pyro, do we need Pyro when you can split print a high contrast negative?
 

john_s

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....................... But I admit that the cost factor really only comes into play if you want to experiment with lots of developers. If you settle on one and pick a reasonably economic one, you're not saving all that much by DIY-ing, unless you developer a LOT of film & paper.

That's not quite my take on it. Although I read about new developers with interest, I'm past experimenting with new formulas. I use two film developers and one print developer. I have been mixing them for decades, even though my throughput is intermittent and not great. So the initial cost of a kilogram of this and 5kg of that are well amortised. Also, a couple of extra chemicals for a HCA-type wash aid, and a couple of toners and Farmer's Reducer is all I need. My ferricyanide was purchased in around 1975. I buy Ilford fixer as making fixer is not worthwhile.
 

Alan Johnson

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You can get some idea of the difference between Xtol and Pyrocat HD from a test I did here,post 1:
For a better explanation one has to shell out for The Film Developing Cookbook.
 

jim appleyard

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Where can you find Microdol X that isn't mix it yourself? :smile:
If you can access easily and economically high quality and consistent supplies of the constituent components - not always easy in the Canadian marketplace - than mix it yourself allows you to make just the amount you need, meaning there is no need to make more than you can use before it deteriorates.

There is this version: https://www.freestylephoto.com/search?q=microdol+x
 

pentaxuser

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"But I admit that the cost factor really only comes into play if you want to experiment with lots of developers. If you settle on one and pick a reasonably economic one, you're not saving all that much by DIY-ing, unless you developer a LOT of film"

koraks, the possible exception to the above might be one of the simplest developers, namely D23?

pentaxuser
 

koraks

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koraks, the possible exception to the above might be one of the simplest developers, namely D23?

You can't really buy that one, can you? Which is to say, I'm sure someone, somewhere probably offers 'kits' of two bags, but it doesn't seem a commonly carried item at most photographic outlets.
 
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