Mounting prints for sale

[Rob Archer]

I'm planning on trying to sell a few prints through small galleries and craft shops. I'm thinking of 10x8 B&W on FB paper. I've sold a few framed prints in the past and often been asked if I can supply mounted but unframed prints.

I'm aiming at the 'more discerning' buyer, so quality is important. What is the experience of the best way of doing this?

Rob

 

[Solarize]

I'd go for a neutral tone, off white most probably and make sure you materials are archival. The link below explains how to hinge mount, a good method if you can get your prints to stay flat and if you want to do it yourself.

www.framedestination.com/picture_frame_info.html

Think carefully about the size of the mount/matt. If people are planning on getting the work framed they will probably want a standard size so they dont have to spend on custom framing of odd sizes.

Good luck

 

[Rob Archer]

www.framedestination.com/picture_frame_info.html

Thanks - excellent webside with loads of useful info!. My problem is that my FB prints aren't 100% flat and will need dry-mounting onto a backing board. How do I join the widow-mount (mat) to the back avioiding the risk of warping due to temperature/humidity variations?

Rob

 

[Solarize]

I'm no expert on the subject but I believe the reason for the window being attached along one side only is to allow for expansion, contraction etc as a result of humidity. The print is also attached by the one side only for the same reason (not if you are dry mounting of course).

Have extended periods under a heavy weight not kept your prints flat enough? Its certainly possible to do it without the press should you decide you'd rather, but the press will probably make your life easier. No doubt you'll have seen the various threads relating to the pros, cons of each method, there's a fair few of them.

 

[matt miller]

I prefer to dry mount FB prints for best results. I've never been able to get mine to stay perfectly flat otherwise. IMO a wavy print is a distraction.

I attach the window to the mount board, via the hinge method, with one long strip of linen tape across the inside at the top.

 

[Travis Nunn]

I hinge the window to the mount board using linen tape also, but I'm curious about Tyvek tape, anyone have any experience with Tyvek tape?

 

[naturephoto1]

I hinge the window to the mount board using linen tape also, but I'm curious about Tyvek tape, anyone have any experience with Tyvek tape?

Hi Travis,

I have been using the Light Impressions Tyvek tape for probably over 6 to 8 years. I used to use linen tape to hinge the photos but quite a number of years ago after a discussion with them I have been hinging both the photos as a T mount and hinging the double mats and the backing/mounting board. I stopped using the linen tape on the photos because it rewet the photos.

Also at the suggestion of Light Impressions, I use a burnishing bone to burnish and lock down the tape to the photo to the mat board and the mat boards. The tape is quite strong- very difficult to tear/must be cut, but it can lift a little from the mats until the adhesive really locks in over some time.

The Light Impressions Tyvek tape is one of the few products that I will continue to order from Light Impressions since they have changed their policies.

Rich

 

[Travis Nunn]

Thanks Rich. I'll be using it to hinge the window to the mount board and if its as strong as you say, it should work nicely. Plus, its pretty cheap.

 

[naturephoto1]

Thanks Rich. I'll be using it to hinge the window to the mount board and if its as strong as you say, it should work nicely. Plus, its pretty cheap.

Hi Travis,

You will find it a very nice material with which to work. The tape peels from the backing to be applied. Do let it sit after assembly for strongest hold, though I normally assemble everything over about 8-12 hours into frames. Everything is held together at that point. I do not remember having things separate.

But, do use either a burnishing bone or something to work the adhesive down and onto the boards. The adhesive sets up much much better that way. Also, a nice benefit is that not only is the adhesive acid free as is the Tyvek, but it is a dry tape and does not need to be moistened.

Rich

 

[roteague]

One thing I found with hinge mounting, the hard way, don't store your framed images upside down.

 

[naturephoto1]

One thing I found with hinge mounting, the hard way, don't store your framed images upside down.

Hi Robert,

As long as the photo isn't damaged, this is generally repairable, but it may require taking the image apart and reassembly. I have carried some pieces upside down by error but they have seemed to be OK. There is a greater problem carrying framed work where the image is held by archival corners and strips over long distances. I have found that those images bunch up as they are pounded down on the roadway with possible memory in the image that is permanent.

Rich

 

[roteague]

It shouldn't be a problem for short periods. I had some framed images, still wrapped in paper that I had stored upside down (unknowingly) for a few weeks, and they all kind of wrinkled/bunched up. I had them fixed, so it wasn't too big of a problem, other than the cost of having them remounted.

 

[Jim Norman]

Standard gallery mounting is a window mat over the mount board where the print floats about 1/2" top and sides and a bit more at the bottom. Similarly, the window should sit higher from the bottom than the of the window is below the top. If it's all even, the print looks like it's slipping. Use archival board, either white or bright white. The suggestion of standard dimensions is correct. For sizes up to 11x14 prints, 16x20 is the standard mount; for 16x20, the mount should be 22x28. Dry mounting is most common, particularly with window mats. Collectible prints that have been signed on the back of the print are corner mounted.