Monthly Shooting Assignment- July/August: The Color of Night

[TheFlyingCamera]

Mixed lighting or ambient only is preferred. A flash-only exposure outdoors would tend to show very little background exposure. But if you wanted to get into painting with light using your strobe handheld off-camera that would be perfectly cool too!

 

[StoneNYC]

Mixed lighting or ambient only is preferred. A flash-only exposure outdoors would tend to show very little background exposure. But if you wanted to get into painting with light using your strobe handheld off-camera that would be perfectly cool too!

Yea as I said flash followed by 1 hour exposure... And I didn't mean on camera flash, sorry I almost never use that I was thinking strobes and pocket wizards etc


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bertus]

Velvia loaded, tripod on board, exposure meter ready, this week I'll try to catch some night colors. :

 

[StoneNYC]

Some done already Some Ektar, Portra, and Provia100f (by accident... I meant to bring Velvia50 and instead grabbed the Provia400X!! ugh... so opted for the 100 since the 400X is my PRECIOUS... haha)

But none processed... that's the tough part with color film, the processing in a timely manner... I may not get to it before this is over...

 

[TheToadMen]

Almost full moon overhere. I would like to make some nightly exposures (don't know what or where yet).
I'm gonna shoot ISO 400. What would be an appropriate aperture and shutter speed?
Too long an exposure will make the moon blurry because it moves too fast, I guess?

Any tips?

 

[StoneNYC]

Almost full moon overhere. I would like to make some nightly exposures (don't know what or where yet).
I'm gonna shoot ISO 400. What would be an appropriate aperture and shutter speed?
Too long an exposure will make the moon blurry because it moves too fast, I guess?

Any tips?

For a moon shot, you'll need a shutter of about 1/200th plus or minus, as well as F/8 or f/11 (this is on a 35mm camera) and more than 300mm lens to get anything useful. Probably closer to 500mm or 600mm ... if you have a 300mm lens and a 2x extension that's probably best. If you have the 2x extension AND 400mm+ lenses... well can I come?? haha

 

[TheToadMen]

shooting at full moon

For a moon shot, you'll need a shutter of about 1/200th plus or minus, as well as F/8 or f/11 (this is on a 35mm camera) and more than 300mm lens to get anything useful. Probably closer to 500mm or 600mm ... if you have a 300mm lens and a 2x extension that's probably best. If you have the 2x extension AND 400mm+ lenses... well can I come?? haha

You're welcome! If you start swimming right now, you'll be here in time for the full moon in two days.

About shooting the moon, I think I wasn't clear. I don't want to make a close-up but shoot the scenery at night with the moon in the picture, without the moon streaking or blowing out ...
Any tips on that subject??

 

[polyglot]

The moon will streak with exposures longer than about 1s depending on your focal length. It moves its own diameter every 2 minutes, so that should tell you how much it smears in a long exposure. It's fast.

Getting the moon to a midtone (and therefore revealing the details in it requires a sunny-11 exposure, e.g. ISO100 1/100s f/11. It's a short exposure because the moon is in full sun! However that's likely to be a gross underexposure for your foreground scene at night which could be several seconds (city) to an hour (dim landscape).

Here's an Dead Link Removed with multiple exposures. All are ISO100 f/11; the detailed moons are each 1/125 and three minutes apart, the really bright moon (and background city) is 4s.

 

[StoneNYC]

The moon will streak with exposures longer than about 1s depending on your focal length. It moves its own diameter every 2 minutes, so that should tell you how much it smears in a long exposure. It's fast.

Getting the moon to a midtone (and therefore revealing the details in it requires a sunny-11 exposure, e.g. ISO100 1/100s f/11. It's a short exposure because the moon is in full sun! However that's likely to be a gross underexposure for your foreground scene at night which could be several seconds (city) to an hour (dim landscape).

Here's an Dead Link Removed with multiple exposures. All are ISO100 f/11; the detailed moons are each 1/125 and three minutes apart, the really bright moon (and background city) is 4s.

He has 400 film hence why I said 200/th second. But I would get some blur on close ups any slower than 1/30 if I recall, it's been a while, I lost my interest when I realized to get a really blow yoir eyes out shot I needed an 800mm lens


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TheToadMen]

Here's an Dead Link Removed with multiple exposures. All are ISO100 f/11; the detailed moons are each 1/125 and three minutes apart, the really bright moon (and background city) is 4s.

Thanks, that's a kind like the multi exposure I was thinking about.

 

[TheToadMen]

He has 400 film hence why I said 200/th second. But I would get some blur on close ups any slower than 1/30 if I recall, it's been a while, I lost my interest when I realized to get a really blow yoir eyes out shot I needed an 800mm lens
~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

I once used a Russian 1000 mm (mirror) lens with an 1.4 extender on my Nikon camera for shooting the moon and it worked great.

 

[polyglot]

Sorry... to answer the actual question, try a long exposure with the moon below the horizon and a fast exposure with the moon in the scene.

If you're a cheater, shoot the moon exposure with a really long focal length and then the scenery with a short focal length; the moon will look huge.

 

[polyglot]

He has 400 film hence why I said 200/th second. But I would get some blur on close ups any slower than 1/30 if I recall, it's been a while, I lost my interest when I realized to get a really blow yoir eyes out shot I needed an 800mm lens

Well obviously adjust your shutter and aperture to suit. 1/200 will require f/11 to f/16 to get good detail in the moon at ISO400...

If you got blur below 1/30, it's almost certainly a tripod-technique issue, e.g. not waiting long enough for mirror vibrations to damp. It only moves 1/3600 of its diameter in that time!

 

[TheToadMen]

Sorry... to answer the actual question, try a long exposure with the moon below the horizon and a fast exposure with the moon in the scene.

If you're a cheater, shoot the moon exposure with a really long focal length and then the scenery with a short focal length; the moon will look huge.

I also have a roll of Fuji Provia 1600 (@ 800 ISO) to finish in my Nikon F90x (= N90s in USA) so I'll experiment with these suggestions as well, thanks!
But it won't be tonight ....

CLOUDS ALL OVER !!!

 

[TheToadMen]

CLOUDS ALL OVER !!!

Tonight was a clear night and almost a full moon. So I took out my Nikon F2 just now (01.00 AM) with an old 35 mm f/2 lens. It was loaded with 400 ASA film about 3 months ago, but I don't know which type anymore. Could be colour or B&W film, but I'm guessing colour.
I made some shots of the trees for about 4 minutes, light painting the trees with a flash light from several directions.
I also made a few shots of the moon with a modern 400 mm lens and a 1.4 converter attached. I shot the moon for 1/200 s. and then a landscape for 4 s as a double exposure.
I wonder if any will come out all right.
I also made a few shots of the moon on Fuji Provia 1600 @800 with my F90x (N90s in USA) and the 400 mm x 1.4 lens, but no double exposures, since I don't think/know that the F90x is capable of double exposures.

 

[Bertus]

Curious about your results, I was Friday at "the head of South" area in Rotterdam at midnight with the Bronica. Next week I show some results here.

 

[Bertus]

Garage at night

Curious about your results, I was Friday at "the head of South" area in Rotterdam at midnight with the Bronica. Next week I show some results here.

Here is one more, 250 mm Bronica and Velvia 100. 30 sec F22

 

[StoneNYC]

Hope I can get mine developed in time...


Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Ok folks- I was really busy the last few days and completely forgot about the end of the MSA for July/August. The winner is:

Martin James, with "Twilight Street" - (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Congrats, and I hope you pick a good new topic!

 

[StoneNYC]

Cool, well, the problem for me with this contest was I only develop my color every few months, and I have a bunch of long exposure night shots I took for this, but sadly, haven't developed any yet... sigh.. oh well, I'll post them here whenever I get to it for the hell of it...

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Stone- my sympathies, but you did have two months... better luck next time.

 

[ArtO]

Ok folks- I was really busy the last few days and completely forgot about the end of the MSA for July/August. The winner is:

Martin James, with "Twilight Street" - (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Congrats, and I hope you pick a good new topic!

Good choice. I really enjoyed all of the entries and think you selected a marvelous winner.

 

[martinjames]

Oh, hey, everybody... just returned from a few days away. Thanks, TFC! That picture came at the very end of an attempt to capture a nearby motif, which didn't really work out as I had hoped. Fortunately, I had a few frames left and decided to see what might happen. I was curious to see how that particular film would interpret the street lamps, and I quite liked the result.

I'll soon start a new thread for the September/October MSA. I've got an idea...

 

[StoneNYC]

Stone- my sympathies, but you did have two months... better luck next time.

Yes I'm aware I had 2 months... and I certainly shot images for this, but that doesn't mean I was able to process them, life and finances are hard on the color shooter...

Also, I can't find the new MSA where is it?

 

[TheToadMen]

Yes I'm aware I had 2 months... and I certainly shot images for this, but that doesn't mean I was able to process them, life and finances are hard on the color shooter...

Also, I can't find the new MSA where is it?

Here's the link: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

And loose the color: B&W is a cheaper and easier world