Modern manual lens recommendations for a Nikon FE?

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I'd like to upgrade from the economy series lenses I'm currently using. Currently I have a 50mm and a 28mm. Thinking I'd like a slightly longer lens for portraits to. I want to upgrade to make use of more modern coatings and glass, because the E series lenses I've got can produce some awfully muddy images.
 

flavio81

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I'd like to upgrade from the economy series lenses I'm currently using. Currently I have a 50mm and a 28mm. Thinking I'd like a slightly longer lens for portraits to. I want to upgrade to make use of more modern coatings and glass, because the E series lenses I've got can produce some awfully muddy images.

They shouldn't produce "muddy" images. I mean, they're not the best Nikon lenses, but they are certainly fine.
Are you using a hood?

"Modern coatings" isn't a guarantee of high contrast. The ancient (1960s) Nikkor-H 28mm f3.5 is a high contrast lens with excellent resistance to flare. It is cheap nowadays, and stopped down to f8 is extremely sharp right to the corners. The center is pin-sharp at all apertures. It is also, unlike many "modern" wideangles, free from distortion.

High contrast is not directly related to modern coatings. Single-coated lenses can also be very contrasty. Multi-coating helps in some cases (particularly zooms) for flare resistance or for improving color reproduction. But there are hundreds of single-coated lenses giving excellent results.

I recommend it to you as a good alternative to the 28mm you are using right now.
 

BrianShaw

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I concur with Flavio. If you are getting muddy images then look elsewhere for the reason. For portraits, though... Nikkor 85/1.4 AI-S
 

flavio81

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And if you're poor... for portraits: Nikkor-Q 135/3.5 and Nikkor-Q 200/4 (guaranteed wonderful bokeh)

To the OP: Take advantage that the FE is able to use Pre-AI Nikkor lenses. Which is the major reason why I preferred the FE to the FE2.
 

jspillane

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Any of the MF Nikkor's still in production would suit you just fine. As would many vintage Nikkors.

I haven't shot with the E-series glass, but do expect to see less of a difference between different lenses than you expect... A lot of fancy lens buying is just chasing the extra 1-2% of image quality that you largely wouldn't see in a final print anyway. You can replace your 50mm E wth a 50mm f1.8 or f2 AI(s) for a pittance - the difference may be more in the build quality than the image quality though, I believe the 50mm E is nearly identical to the 50mm f1.8 AI(s).

I think the Voigtlander SL/II series is really excellent, although some are hard to find and they are a lot pricier than scooping up older AI(s) lenses. They tend towards the strange or exotic in terms of focal length and qualities, so maybe not the best to start out with. If I had only one lens for Nikon SLR, it would be the Voigtlander 58mm 1.4, though.

For a great general purpose 'short' telephoto, you won't do better than a Nikon 105mm 2.5.
I tend to prefer the Nikkor 24mm 2.8 to the 28mm's I've used. You should be able to find both for around $100 each and they'll be money well spent.

Coating will largely just create lower flare on lenses with many elements. A lens hood will do much more.
 

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Love my 135 3.5 from the late 60's. Didn't learn the word bokeh, (and not sure how it applies to this lens), until late in life, but even back then I liked the DOF effect compared to other lenses.

Nikon has (or so I've been told), made some bad lenses. I'm not good enough to see the flaws in the ones I've shot. I concur with the muddy image comments. If it was me, I'd find a nice outdoor scene, put the sun at my back, camera on a tripod, lens hood on, lens at F8 and bracket some exposures on slow slide film. Then if they're still muddy it's time to get a bit more serious.
 

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bdial

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Anybody shoot the old 105?
How old?:smile:
I bought my AIS 105 new circa 1982, by a lot of measures it would qualify as old. I've also shot the non-AI versions, but don't have any of the photos since the negs were retained by my employer at the time.
The 105 is/was the go to Nikkor for portraits, at least prior to the fast 85's.

As mentioned earlier, the non-AI Nikkors go for pennies now, at least in comparison to the prices they once commanded. A lot of great photographers became famous using them.

Other possibilities might include some of the small zooms like a 35-105 and similar range zooms. They don't have stellar optical reputations, but you can still make great photos with them, and the truly do sell for pennies, like 15 or 20 bucks.
 

Grif

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I'd picked up a 43-86? old zoom. The one with the crummy reputation? Loved it.

All kidding aside. If I went back to my FTN it'd be the 135 and a 35.
I sure wish they'd put a micro-prism collar and split image in my D7200 ;-)
 

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Michael Jin

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If you're looking for a portrait lens, try the Rokinon 135mm f2 (also known as Samyang, Bower, and probably a few other names I fail to remember). It's actually a pretty sweet lens that gives you the perks of modern glass at an affordable price.

Actually, I've found Rokinon lenses to be surprisingly good across the board and if it's sharpness and contrast that you're looking for, I think you'll find that Rokinon lenses will actually beat out a lot of old (and some new) Nikon lenses in those departments. They're completely manual lenses, so you're not paying for an autofocus system that you're not going to use anyway and since there's no autofocus to worry about (the primary weakness of third party gear), there's really no reason not to consider 3rd party lenses in this scenario.

Obviously, if you have the funds, you can always go shell out for Zeiss stuff, but I'm personally not rich enough for that. :tongue:
 

Mick Fagan

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The first 85mm lens Nikon manufactured that I would suggest is worth having, and most importantly, will fit onto your FE is the 85 f/1.8 which was released in the mid-sixties, this is quite sharp and I have used it alongside my 85 f/1.4; more than acceptable performance for the price they go for these days.

I have the Nikkor 85 f/1.4 which is a brilliant length for walk around full length body portraits, it also is brilliant for a bust shot as well. Razor sharp and probably the best of their short telephoto range. Uses a 72mm filter mount, should be used with the original deep lens hood for best results if there is a bit of sidelight about. This lens has moving elements (called CRC Close Range Correction) which means anything really close or really far away will be razor sharp, and I mean razor sharp. As you change focus, the elements inside the lens are re-arranged in relation to each other, makes for stupendously brilliant close razor sharp focusing. The 55mm f/2.5 Micro Nikkor, also uses this type of CRC stuff, and uses it well.

Nikon also made a slower version which came out around 1976/7 it is an f/2 unit. I tried a couple in two photo stores in Singapore about 30/32 years ago by exposing a few frames in the store with the f/2 and f/1.4 lenses one after the other. I then developed my film in the hotel room that night and used a loupe to discover that the f/2 lenses were certainly soft. I wouldn’t think this would be a great lens unless one comes up really cheap. Made the decision of which 85mm Nikkor lens I would purchase, really easy.

The Nikkor 105 f/2.5 is nothing short of brilliant, and is as affordable as anything these days. In short, it takes close up bust shots, full length body shots and is a very handy lens as a moderate telephoto for landscape work. This lens is just stunning. Comes with a built in lens hood, takes 52mm filters and is probably my most used lens overall on my Nikon bodies.

The Nikkor 105 f/1.8 is sort of super expensive and I don’t believe the price difference from the far less expensive f/2.5 version is worth it; you may be lucky though.

There is one other lens that is worth considering, the slightly longer Nikkor 135mm f/2.8. There are two of these faster 135mm Nikkor lenses. The first was the late sixties through to mid-seventies unit, which reportedly, was a bit soft. I don’t know as I have never used one. The later unit from the mid-seventies is the version that I have, it is basically a longer version of the Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 lens. It has a built in lens hood and also uses the economical 52mm filter ring size.

I have used the Nikon E series 135mm lens, which is also f/2.8. Really soft was my lasting impression. Nice lens, but there were many aftermarket lens that were probably better.

Many moons ago I bought brand new a Vivitar Series 1 135 f/2.3 Nikon mount lens, that was also an excellent lens, but the helices were so incredibly fine, one was forever turning and turning to focus. From memory, it was extremely cheap and punched way above other aftermarket lenses. I stopped using it when I picked up the 105 f/2.5 Nikkor and sold it some time later.

Another lens that could be around that seemed to always punch above its peers, was the Tamron 90mm manual focus, which, if my memory serves me correctly, was also a macro lens. It uses the Adaptall mount system, so you would need that as well, but in the late seventies and right through the eighties, that 90mm Tamron was in many kit bags and probably still is.

Some thoughts, Mick.
 

Mick Fagan

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Another thought, if you look at my pictures page, you should be able to see a couple of instances of where the 85 and 105 lenses were used one after the other on the same models and in the same location minutes apart.

Mick.
 

locutus

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If you want modern native Nikon F manual focus lenses and you have the money to spend, the Zeiss ZF.2 lenses are amazing in every regard and one can get nice deals on them second hand.

For portrait lenses the Zeiss 50/2, 85/1.4 and 100/2 are some of the best i have ever used.
 

mynewcolour

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The Samyang 85 1.4 is considered by many to be even better than the Zeiss 85 1.4 (which is saying something). It fits the bill as 'modern' glass. I think it contains an aspherical element.

I've not used the Samyang... but in your situation I'd consider it.

I liked the 85 1.8 AF-D. I still have a 60 2.8 Micro AF-D which is actually great for portraits.
 

John_Nikon_F

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To the OP, something's wrong with either the film or the processing. The only difference between a 50/1.8 E and a 50/1.8 AF-D is the fact that the AF-D has multicoating. It still is going to render quite well. Either that, or your FE's meter is off and causing bad exposure readings.

This was taken a couple weekends ago while using a 1971 vintage Nikon F equipped with a 1965 vintage Photomic T finder on top (yes, meter works) and a 1969 vintage 50/2 Nikkor-H. Single coated. Film was Ektar 100, rated at ISO 64 (with the T being calibrated for mercury, I set it at ASA 40 to provide the correct reading). Subject was our backyard pond.



For a portrait lens, the 85/1.8 K-type pre-AI Nikkor with an AI ring is a good choice. Admittedly, not a human portrait, but a shot of a broken maple tree trunk. Nikon F2AS, 85/1.8 K, same film as used above.



Another single-coated lens, a 1970 vintage 20/3.5 Nikkor-UD. Subject was a Volvo/Saab car meet last month. Same body and film as the second pic.



Top and middle shot were taken on an overcast day, whereas the last shot did have a little sun mixed in, but you can see that the single coated glass can provide the same eye-popping contrast that modern lenses do.

-J
 

cooltouch

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In my experience I'd have to say that there are very few Nikon primes that aren't good. And that includes the Series E lenses.

A Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 AIs. Nikon F2, Ektar 100, The 24mm is notorious for being soft in the corners, otherwise it is a fine lens.
caboose1a.jpg


Nikkor AIs 50mm f/1.4, Nikon F2, Fuji Superia 400. Grain added for effect.
hfc6_platinum.jpg


Nikkor AI 135mm f/3.5, Nikon FM, Kodachrome 64. This 135 ended up being a great portrait lens. Tack sharp.
baishin1.jpg


How's your budget? The Nikkor AIs 180mm f/2.8 ED is an incredible lens. Note Garfield.
a6garfield.jpg
 

ac12

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As other said, you need to be specific about "... produce some awfully muddy images."
  • What film (color slide or negative, black & white negative, or ?)?
  • Who is doing the processing?
  • Is the film properly exposed? Underexposed film is muddy/low contrast.
FYI, I used the early version of the 43-86 zoom. The one that has a bad reputation.
To me, that lens worked just fine, if the film was exposed properly. And I shot a lot of slides, so it HAD to be exposed properly.
Underexpose B&W and I got muddy/low contrast negatives, that push processing did not help much.
 

darinwc

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If you have the series E 28mm lens, I would suggest an upgrade. I understand that lens is not very good. Any of the other Nikon 28mm lenses would be super. But the 28mm f2.8 Nikkor ais had the best reputation.

However the 50mm series E is excellent. You should have no problems with it. I have a nikkor 50mm f1.8 "long nose". Same glass, just a longer barrel which helps reduce flare and is easier to focus. Maybe you just need a hood.

On the long side, an 85mm or 105mm Nikkor would suffice. I have an old 105mm f2.5 and am very happy with it. The early sonar designs have a distinctive look. The late ai and AIS versions are great also.
 
OP
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senderoaburrido
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Thanks for all of the input, guys.

It might be a bad copy, however most of the shots I'm complaining about were recently taken on the 28mm E series. If that lens has a terrible reputation, it might explain the poor quality of the images. I looked back at some old scans, and it looks like the 50mm does indeed produce sharper images. I think I might look at the 135mm AIS, though. Same with the 28mm.

Those Zeiss lenses cost enough to put sweat on my brow. I don't know if I'd feel safe bringing them anywhere.
 
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senderoaburrido
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The first 85mm lens Nikon manufactured that I would suggest is worth having, and most importantly, will fit onto your FE is the 85 f/1.8 which was released in the mid-sixties, this is quite sharp and I have used it alongside my 85 f/1.4; more than acceptable performance for the price they go for these days.

I have the Nikkor 85 f/1.4 which is a brilliant length for walk around full length body portraits, it also is brilliant for a bust shot as well. Razor sharp and probably the best of their short telephoto range. Uses a 72mm filter mount, should be used with the original deep lens hood for best results if there is a bit of sidelight about. This lens has moving elements (called CRC Close Range Correction) which means anything really close or really far away will be razor sharp, and I mean razor sharp. As you change focus, the elements inside the lens are re-arranged in relation to each other, makes for stupendously brilliant close razor sharp focusing. The 55mm f/2.5 Micro Nikkor, also uses this type of CRC stuff, and uses it well.

Nikon also made a slower version which came out around 1976/7 it is an f/2 unit. I tried a couple in two photo stores in Singapore about 30/32 years ago by exposing a few frames in the store with the f/2 and f/1.4 lenses one after the other. I then developed my film in the hotel room that night and used a loupe to discover that the f/2 lenses were certainly soft. I wouldn’t think this would be a great lens unless one comes up really cheap. Made the decision of which 85mm Nikkor lens I would purchase, really easy.

The Nikkor 105 f/2.5 is nothing short of brilliant, and is as affordable as anything these days. In short, it takes close up bust shots, full length body shots and is a very handy lens as a moderate telephoto for landscape work. This lens is just stunning. Comes with a built in lens hood, takes 52mm filters and is probably my most used lens overall on my Nikon bodies.

The Nikkor 105 f/1.8 is sort of super expensive and I don’t believe the price difference from the far less expensive f/2.5 version is worth it; you may be lucky though.

There is one other lens that is worth considering, the slightly longer Nikkor 135mm f/2.8. There are two of these faster 135mm Nikkor lenses. The first was the late sixties through to mid-seventies unit, which reportedly, was a bit soft. I don’t know as I have never used one. The later unit from the mid-seventies is the version that I have, it is basically a longer version of the Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 lens. It has a built in lens hood and also uses the economical 52mm filter ring size.

I have used the Nikon E series 135mm lens, which is also f/2.8. Really soft was my lasting impression. Nice lens, but there were many aftermarket lens that were probably better.

Many moons ago I bought brand new a Vivitar Series 1 135 f/2.3 Nikon mount lens, that was also an excellent lens, but the helices were so incredibly fine, one was forever turning and turning to focus. From memory, it was extremely cheap and punched way above other aftermarket lenses. I stopped using it when I picked up the 105 f/2.5 Nikkor and sold it some time later.

Another lens that could be around that seemed to always punch above its peers, was the Tamron 90mm manual focus, which, if my memory serves me correctly, was also a macro lens. It uses the Adaptall mount system, so you would need that as well, but in the late seventies and right through the eighties, that 90mm Tamron was in many kit bags and probably still is.

Some thoughts, Mick.


For the lenses you mention with more than one iteration, how can I tell if I'm looking at it in an auction? Serial no.?
 
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