modern flash for off camera

[Soeren]

Twinsies.

View attachment 162370

Yep. Why the adapter? For distance/working space?
I like the fact that with this system I have full control, TTL and HSS etc with the dedicated system AND I can control power settings from camera with any other system. The PC port is nice when shooting older cameras or LF

 

[mweintraub]

That looks like a really nice flash, and I like that it has the PC port. If I ever have to replace my Quantums, this will be on my shortlist.

The Godox AD360 (Adorama Streaklight 360 or Cheetah something) are "hotshoe" bare bulb flashes that use the smae (or similar) battery packs as the Quantums. They are small and powerful. Unfortunately I'm selling one to get the larger Xplor monolight with the built in battery pack.

Yep. Why the adapter? For distance/working space?
I like the fact that with this system I have full control, TTL and HSS etc with the dedicated system AND I can control power settings from camera with any other system. The PC port is nice when shooting older cameras or LF

Nikon TTL pins on hot feet cause problems mounting on non TTL hot shoes so this little adapter has little ramps that help push the pins up. The adapter is otherwise a dummy center pin pass through.

 

[Soeren]

I have a couple of those AD360II on my wishlist. Im not sure if I'll ever go for the big AD600.

 

[MattKing]

Personally, I really like using the "auto" functions on my flashes. I wouldn't buy a flash with all those great features unless it also had a built in sensor.

Of course, YMMV.

 

[mweintraub]

I have a couple of those AD360II on my wishlist. Im not sure if I'll ever go for the big AD600.

I'm probably going to sell my AD360/Streaklight 360 (nonTTL) and purchase the AD600/Xplor. Let me know if you might be interested. [BTW, I'll be resubscribing as I'm selling other items too.]

 

[Soeren]

I'm probably going to sell my AD360/Streaklight 360 (nonTTL) and purchase the AD600/Xplor. Let me know if you might be interested. [BTW, I'll be resubscribing as I'm selling other items too.]

Not at the moment. I just bought the x1trigger and a couple of TT685 and need some stands etc.

 

[Soeren]

Personally, I really like using the "auto" functions on my flashes. I wouldn't buy a flash with all those great features unless it also had a built in sensor.

Of course, YMMV.

But can you make use of that functionallity when using light modifiers like a softbox or umbrella.

 

[Alan Johnson]

But can you make use of that functionallity when using light modifiers like a softbox or umbrella.

That is a hypothetical question IMO as items that use a softbox or umbrella, like studio strobes, are invariably set manually.
I think there can be a problem with ttl flash + ambient light if the subject is very light or very dark as some ttl systems assume it to be mid-grey and will underexpose or overexpose the background.

 

[Alan Johnson]

Attached an illustration of the effect of subject lightness (white, grey, black card) on background lightness with E-TTL Canon 580 EX on Canon Rebel Ti (=EOS 300V)

 

[Kirks518]

Attached an illustration of the effect of subject lightness (white, grey, black card) on background lightness with E-TTL Canon 580 EX on Canon Rebel Ti (=EOS 300V)View attachment 162440

And that's why I shoot manual flash 99.999999% of the time.

Great examples.

 

[AgX]

Other than having a current production flash already in house I do not see the point in buying a new flash for a decades old camera, when the flashes from the 70s to 90s can be had cheap.


The only benefit I can see would be radio-transferred TTL-metering if possible.

I hope I do not come over as provocative. I just wondered. What did I miss?

 

[Soeren]

The ability to change flash power output from camera position. No need to disassemple softboxes, take the flash down from it's position up high or walk back and forth.

 

[Alan Johnson]

The ability to change flash power output from camera position. No need to disassemple softboxes, take the flash down from it's position up high or walk back and forth.

To get the subject lightness correct , it is preferred to measure the INCIDENT light from the subject position with a flashmeter (usually one light at a time).
Flash controller to which you apparently refer does not do this, it depends on the average REFLECTED light picked up by the camera, dependent on subject and background brightness.

 

[Soeren]

To get the subject lightness correct , it is preferred to measure the INCIDENT light from the subject position with a flashmeter (usually one light at a time).
Flash controller to which you apparently refer does not do this, it depends on the average REFLECTED light picked up by the camera, dependent on subject and background brightness.

No. Using the Godox system on a non dedicated camera you set the flash output manually from 1/1 to 1/128 on the trigger. You can control up to 5 groups (pic show in 3 group mode), the number of units/group Im not sure about. You do all your measurements using your flashmeter but you set the needed power without having to move anything, not yourself, not a flash positioned up high or far away and not having to strugle with softboxes etc.

It may offcource be of little significance to you but dialling in more than a couple of units quickly become a nightmare. The Godox line up includes almost anything from the normal speedlights over the AD180 and 360 up to battery powered AD600 studio type and conventional studio flashes all controlled by the X1 trigger. The system offcource is for modern digital cameras but it offer much more versatillity and convenience than my old SB26 and trigger with any of my older cameras be it nikon, mamiya, yashica, chamonix or zeiss ikonta.

 

[Alan Johnson]

Thanks for the explanation, we differ on the utility of such a gadget as I often set up 4 units manually and never realised I had a problem.

 

[mweintraub]

Thanks for the explanation, we differ on the utility of such a gadget as I often set up 4 units manually and never realised I had a problem.

The Godox X1 style trigger allows you to set the power of the device from where ever you're standing. It mainly just eliminates you from having to walk around to the backs of the flashes/strobes.

 

[Soeren]

Which can be of little or no significance if shooting classic studio type portraits. But just because I choose to shoot film it doesn't mean Im fine with restricting myself to just using classic type lighting where the flash units are easily reached.

 

[MattKing]

I have a friend who uses these sorts of remote control functions when doing portrait and still life work. He is primarily using them with digital equipment. The ability to quickly adjust lighting ratios and check the results "on the fly", without having to leave his near camera and subject location, is something he finds quite useful.

That being said, that functionality is a convenience rather than a necessity.

 

[mweintraub]

I have a friend who uses these sorts of remote control functions when doing portrait and still life work. He is primarily using them with digital equipment. The ability to quickly adjust lighting ratios and check the results "on the fly", without having to leave his near camera and subject location, is something he finds quite useful.

That being said, that functionality is a convenience rather than a necessity.

Exactly. I used to scuff at having the convenience of being to switch the power from the camera area and tell people I move strobe to strobe for exercise... but now I like it being lazy. Less sweaty that way.

 

[Kirks518]

I probably missed it, but can the Godox commander above control any brand of flash from the base, or is it only for the brand that particular commander is made for (Canon, Nikon, etc).

 

[mweintraub]

I probably missed it, but can the Godox commander above control any brand of flash from the base, or is it only for the brand that particular commander is made for (Canon, Nikon, etc).

I'm not 100% sure, but from what I gather, the receiver has to match the flash. The trigger just has to match the camera for TTL or just use center pin.

 

[Kirks518]

I'm not 100% sure, but from what I gather, the receiver has to match the flash. The trigger just has to match the camera for TTL or just use center pin.

I just re-read my post, and I was pitifully unclear. I'm referring to the ability to control flash levels from the command unit. As pictured above, Flash A is at 1/64 power, and Flash B at 1/8. Are these flashes the same brand as the camera, or are they Godox flash units, or...?

 

[rrusso]

I just re-read my post, and I was pitifully unclear. I'm referring to the ability to control flash levels from the command unit. As pictured above, Flash A is at 1/64 power, and Flash B at 1/8. Are these flashes the same brand as the camera, or are they Godox flash units, or...?

I believe, for features like that, the commander and flashes would have to be part of a proprietary system. But, I'm no expert on everything that's available, so maybe not.

My current flash system is Yongnuo, consisting of four 560 III's and the command unit, which mounts on the camera hot shoe. I can enable/disable, set the zoom, and power in 1/3 step increments, to each flash individually, all from the CU. However, the only communication between the CU and camera, afaik, is "fire the flash". But again, I have to set all that up from the CU and flashes - the camera has no idea what's going on and isn't really controlling anything.

And so as to not completely hijack the thread...to the OP:

I don't think you could go wrong with just picking up, say, a Nikon SB 23 and cord (SC 17). Probably looking at around 50 bucks or so...

 

[Soeren]

I just re-read my post, and I was pitifully unclear. I'm referring to the ability to control flash levels from the command unit. As pictured above, Flash A is at 1/64 power, and Flash B at 1/8. Are these flashes the same brand as the camera, or are they Godox flash units, or...?

Yeah unfortunately the flashes need to be Godox too, they have a reciever built in. Seems to me though the units are very cheap nowadays.

 

[mweintraub]

I just re-read my post, and I was pitifully unclear. I'm referring to the ability to control flash levels from the command unit. As pictured above, Flash A is at 1/64 power, and Flash B at 1/8. Are these flashes the same brand as the camera, or are they Godox flash units, or...?

I think I understood your post. From what I gather, the flash brand has to match the version of receiver under it. For example, the X1N Receiver needs to be under the Nikon speedlight and the X1 Transmitter should be able to tell the receiver to set whatever power. I'm not 100% sure, though.

Yeah unfortunately the flashes need to be Godox too, they have a reciever built in. Seems to me though the units are very cheap nowadays.

Not sure this is the case.

I'll ask the FB group.