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Modern body or old school- what do you use and why?

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Honestly, I don't think having two different kits at one's disposal is all that crazy - as long as one keeps them organized such that one doesn't accidentally mount a lens onto the wrong camera. I actually enjoy having a choice between different systems (as well as film formats!) available to me. Every system has its strengths and weaknesses, and its own unique character and feel. Perhaps some of the nostalgia you are experiencing is due to not only how well that first kit worked and the positive experiences you had with it, but also what the other kit seems to be lacking in comparison. A camera is more than just a spec sheet and features list.

I know a lot of APUGers have double SLR kits and I don't think that's crazy at all!:cool:
I was talking about being "crazy" for my personal situation:D. Hope I didn't offend anyone out there - apologies if I did.:redface:
 
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I don't know why an in-camera meter should be any more or less accurate then a hand held meter. Either one require that you use your understanding of exposure and of metering and decide if you like what the meter is telling you or not.

Back in the early 60s a whole lot of pros jumped on the TTL metering bandwagon and I don't see many of them giving up some of those advantages. My old Spottie does a terrific job of exposing photographs when I point the meter at the right things.
 
I know a lot of APUGers have double kits and I don't think that's crazy at all!:cool:
I was talking about being "crazy" for my personal situation:D. Hope I didn't offend anyone out there - apologies if I did.:redface:

I have 4 or 5 kits.

Standard manual SLRs of many manufactures.

Full auto whizbangs of many manufactures.

Rangefinders of many manufactures.

Scale Focus of many manufactures.

Point and shoots of many manufactures.

TLR's, Folders, ZLRs (or bridge), Box, Bellows, Polaroid, Pinholes, Oddballs etc...

I love 'em all. I collect what I can get my hands on and rotate cameras so I used all of them at some point. The next collection I need is a full range of lenses. I don't have anything below a 28 or above a 200. I'll be taking suggestions for dirt cheap wides starting...now!
 
I do not have any problems with the Nikon matrix meter. I strongly suspect you are experiencing Operator Assisted Failure [OAF], as in the OAF did this or the OAF did that. You might want to go back an read the manual.
I read the manual many times. I tried for 2 years before giving up using it for negative film.
 
There is a black lit setting for the N75 and F100.
It works with black lights?

Or does this mean that the matrix metering, because it acts just like an avg meter pattern, cannot handle back lit situations so you have to manually compensate for it?
 
For "in the wild" photography (live shows, car shows, tractor shows), I use a Nikon F4 and a Pentax 645n.
If I can bring a tripod and take my time, the camera will be chosen by format & lens instead of conveniences. It could be a Ricoh Super 44, Mamiya C2, Kiev 6C, Koni-Omega Rapid, Kodak Medalist or Monitor, or maybe even something weird.
 
Back lit not black lit.
 
It's better to have a computer in your head than in the camera. When my good friend the late Bernie Boston, the dean of White House photographers, was still working he told me about a woman who was a photographer for one of the big glossy news magazines whose auto everything cameras' battery died. She couldn't take any pictures at that session because he said she had absolutely no idea about light, f stops or speed. On the other hand, I only saw my friend Louie Stettner use a meter once...a Sekonic incident meter. In new environments I find a meter necessary. The sun in New Jersey is not the same sun as Florida.
 
When my good friend the late Bernie Boston, the dean of White House photographers, was still working he told me about a woman who was a photographer for one of the big glossy news magazines whose auto everything cameras' battery died. She couldn't take any pictures at that session ...

Incredible that a working pro would not have a spare battery with them. Or another camera. Incredible really.
 
When I'm in the mood for auto-focus I pick up my DSLR. I'm really into my film cameras with manual focus now. I end up using my AE1Program the most for the ergonomics, I mostly use it in manual mode, not program mode.
 
My 2 cents: I have an A2e to go with my ef lenses but I haven't used it in a couple years. My daily (or monthly) 35mm is an M42 mount Fujica. A couple months ago we took a family trip to Mexico. while sitting on the veranda and looking, I found myself thinking how I would shoot something if I had (.... place whatever gear here). Then I decided to see what I could do with what I had with me (Fujica, tri-x at 1600 for diafine). It was quite liberating. I did need to use some ND on the beach. I really enjoy not having to make money from photography anymore.
 
I went through the owner's manual for the F100 and could not find it.
Where is it?
Thanks.

For the F100 I meant use the spot meter.
 
My 2 cents: I have an A2e to go with my ef lenses but I haven't used it in a couple years. My daily (or monthly) 35mm is an M42 mount Fujica. A couple months ago we took a family trip to Mexico. while sitting on the veranda and looking, I found myself thinking how I would shoot something if I had (.... place whatever gear here). Then I decided to see what I could do with what I had with me (Fujica, tri-x at 1600 for diafine). It was quite liberating. I did need to use some ND on the beach. I really enjoy not having to make money from photography anymore.

Love my A2, hate the battery cost.
 
For the F100 I meant use the spot meter.

Well ok then. Now I'm wondering why you were defending matrix metering seeing you can't rely on it either. Just like any avg meter pattern, it is led astray with standard lighting situations.

Interestingly today I found out the fickleness of battery dependency with my F100. When I left this morning the charge indicator showed a full level. At lunch I turned the camera on, focussed on a random target and everything turned off. Nothing was displayed, not even on the lcd panel by the shutter button. I put a fresh set in and things were back to normal. So it went from showing completely full charge to absolute zero you have no batteries in here. Without even taking a pic.
That is why mechanical cameras rock.
Of course when I got home I checked my F6, and the rechargeable batteries in that too were completely flat. I leave them in that camera because if you pull them out, after about a week it forgets all its custom settings.

With this experience, my favorite cameras definitely are ones that are not battery reliant. Bless Leica Ms (you know the ones), Nikon F and F2s and their ilk. While I'm at it I'll take a moment and think of Fuji GWs, Rolleiflexes, Hasselblads, Zenits and Lubitels...
 
Well ok then. Now I'm wondering why you were defending matrix metering seeing you can't rely on it either. Just like any avg meter pattern, it is led astray with standard lighting situations.

I do not get led astray. I know how to use all my cameras and various light meters. Neither standard nor nonstandard lighting situations cause problems for me with or without matrix meters.

Interestingly today I found out the fickleness of battery dependency with my F100. When I left this morning the charge indicator showed a full level. At lunch I turned the camera on, focussed on a random target and everything turned off. Nothing was displayed, not even on the lcd panel by the shutter button. I put a fresh set in and things were back to normal. So it went from showing completely full charge to absolute zero you have no batteries in here. Without even taking a pic.
That is why mechanical cameras rock.
Of course when I got home I checked my F6, and the rechargeable batteries in that too were completely flat. I leave them in that camera because if you pull them out, after about a week it forgets all its custom settings.

With this experience, my favorite cameras definitely are ones that are not battery reliant. Bless Leica Ms (you know the ones), Nikon F and F2s and their ilk. While I'm at it I'll take a moment and think of Fuji GWs, Rolleiflexes, Hasselblads, Zenits and Lubitels...

An now you understand why I prefer my manual cameras, using their light meters or external light meters.
 
I like having the extra 2-3 stops available with my "modern" cameras (F100, F4), without having to resort to filters.

If you're a "relaxed" shooter, you don't care about faster shutter speeds, auto advance, etc., and the picture ain't gonna be any better just because it was shot with an F6.

Yep, the battery issue doesn't have a good argument, but I just accept it - I have 30-ish rechargeable Eneloops (which are pricey) in reserve, because ya just never know.
 
I don't do autofocus and film. If I need autofocus, I'm using a digital camera. I rarely use auto aperture or exposure controls on film bodies. To me, film is all about slowing down and composing the shot. Every exposure costs money, so every exposure gets some consideration. If I'm in a situation where I need to rely on AF, I'm probably going to be taking a bunch of pictures anyway, and film gets expensive. Plus, I may or may not have time to reload the camera. So that's one situation where digital makes more sense to me. Also, the AF on most film cameras I've used can be kind of iffy. It's not the speed or reliability that's the problem, but getting it to focus on what I'm trying to focus on, which is no fun if you're actually needing the speed advantage of an AF camera. It's a lot easier to just point it out on your DSLR's display screen if the AF doesn't grab it right away.

I also like the older, manual focus bodies because they tend to feel more substantial, look cooler (like a film camera, not a cheap DSLR), and hold up better. The most advanced film camera I currently own is probably my Pentax Auto Program with a motor drive. And I use the motor drive more for a grip than for the actual motor drive (though I do like the sound it makes!).
 
I do not get led astray. I know how to use all my cameras and various light meters. Neither standard nor nonstandard lighting situations cause problems for me with or without matrix meters.



An now you understand why I prefer my manual cameras, using their light meters or external light meters.

I said "it is led astray". Not you. As in the matrix meter is easily fooled. People need to forget the fancy nomenclature and claims and just treat it like an avg weighted meter.

And yeah, you and me too with the manual cameras. Having a fancy paperweight because the batteries went nighty night wasn't too helpful.
 
I like having the extra 2-3 stops available with my "modern" cameras (F100, F4), without having to resort to filters.

That is exactly why I have them. 1/8000 sec vs 1/1000 or 1/2000 can come in very helpful. ND filters are fine on rf cameras, but kinda suck on SLRs as they make the viewing experience much worse.
 
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If I need autofocus, I'm using a digital camera. I rarely use auto aperture or exposure controls on film bodies. To me, film is all about slowing down and composing the shot.
I like to use manual exposure on my film cameras, but several of those cameras have an auto-exposure option.
For me, the auto-exposure option is valuable, and I like to be able to choose that option when circumstances make that appropriate.
I much prefer to be able to choose an option on a camera that I am otherwise familiar and comfortable with, rather than having to change cameras in order to achieve what I want to achieve.
I wish Olympus had evolved its attempts at auto-focus in a manner that would have led to an auto-focus OM-2n that maintained the control layout of my OM-2n. And I wish the auto-focus Mamiya 645 used the same backs as the manual focus Mamiya 645s, and offered open aperture metering with the manual focus Mamiya 645 lenses.
 
I ended up taking my Nikon F along with a handheld meter. I really like the big bright screen of the MF Nikon cameras and that was a big part of enjoying the experience. I was on holiday so I had lots of time to get the photos I wanted and could be opportunistic in capturing the kids at play.

P.
 
  • pthornto
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I use af Minoltas, mainly from the 7 series. 7000, 7000i, 7xi, 700si.. They all have their advantages and oddities.. But I've always been a underdog fan, and the Minolta Maxxum 7000 was my first "real" camera in 1986.
What I'm missing is a mf x700 and some rokkors..
 
I find myself using a "modern" autofocus EOS body more and more for 35mm...this despite the fact that I really enjoy the feel and responsiveness of old school nikon or olympus manual focus slr. I guess that for my subjects (usually my little kids that aren't sitting still for more than 3 seconds) I feel an AF body with automatic film advance helps me work just a bit faster, keeping my eye on the subject and leveraging some automatic exposure to have one less thing to think about. That, said, I don't know if it really improves my success ratio or just changes my approach (and potential types of pictures I get- eg. action vs candids)

When I shoot with an manual focus body I am somewhat more restrained in my choice of shots and as I said- I really like the feeling of shooting manually, trusting myself to focus properly, and knowing what the camera is doing...so I guess if I were to summarize I would say I enjoy the experience of photographing more with an older manual camera but feel like I may be getting better (or at least somewhat different more spontaneous) results with a EOS.

I'm thinking on these aspects of camera choice as I'm headed out on vacation for a week in a few days and really want to only bring one SLR system!

What are your preferences for 35mm SLR? Do you shoot what you prefer because it gives you results you like or do you greatly enjoy the experience (or both!)?
If my kids are in motion I just stop down a little, and let motion blur happen, try and capture the feeling that they were bundles of energy.

I only use manual focus but I do have one body with a spot meter for those family situations where I prefer not to use a handheld meter or do maths.

I agree with your thought that the system might have an effect on the sort of shots you take.
I never hold my SLR away from my eye to shoot but with a rangefinder I frequently might, especially to get eye level with my kids.

What ever works for you is cool. I definitely prefer all manual cameras from my end of the equation.
 
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