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- Oct 26, 2015
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- 35mm
This straight cut thing is new to me. Don't use a lead at all? What magic is this?!
Attaching your own leader gets high marks on the Scrooge Scale. I've rarely been brave enough to open the back on an auto re-wind camera. Open too early and you lose frames, too late and the leader disappears. Listening for the exact change of note as the spool releases and being quick enough to open the back and catch it, requires a level of skill I do not possess.attach my own leads
You should look into getting a half-frame camera. The Olympus Pen F, for example.It's amazing to a cheapskate like me. I wonder if by design, there could be a camera can squeeze out an extra exposure by reducing the space between the frames? Luckily, I don't smoke. I'd probably smoke the filter too.
24x36 is quite small enough.You should look into getting a half-frame camera. The Olympus Pen F, for example.
In olden days that time forgot, this request would be met with a loud "Nooooooo" from all the labs that used to return mounted slides.I wonder if by design, there could be a camera can squeeze out an extra exposure by reducing the space between the frames?
1/2 the frame. Twice the fun!You should look into getting a half-frame camera. The Olympus Pen F, for example.
True. But for wallet-size prints, a 16x24 negative will be plenty big enough.24x36 is quite small enough.
On my XA3, and presumably all other XA's as they're basically the same camera, there is no take up slot in the spool. So long as the film reaches the appropriate mark, which is just after the shutter frame as it's such a small camera, you're good. Make sure the sprocket holes engage top and bottom with the cogs, and one turn of the wheel takes you into fresh unexposed film. I was a little wary when I tried this, but the very first sprocket hole saw the re-wind handle turning in sympathy.
This must be true of other compact cameras, but slot-less take up spools mostly coincided with auto advance, which is wasteful, and slotted spools require a leader though rarely one as long as manufacturers offer on pre-rolled film.
Attaching your own leader gets high marks on the Scrooge Scale. I've rarely been brave enough to open the back on an auto re-wind camera. Open too early and you lose frames, too late and the leader disappears. Listening for the exact change of note as the spool releases and being quick enough to open the back and catch it, requires a level of skill I do not possess.
You should look into getting a half-frame camera. The Olympus Pen F, for example.
You look at the winding crank, when it stops spinning you have about a second or less. I'm pretty good with my F3.
Also, the half-frame is perfect. Get 72 frames or more out of a roll. Only issue is that us misers worry about the meter dying, like on my Pen EE3 so we jealously guard the sensor to keep it away from light. Therefore the camera rarely gets used. I need like a stepup filter ring for mine so I can put a better lens cap on. I'm afraid of losing my Pen lens cap. The replacements are a fortune.
Or, just rewind the F3 manually. As soon as you feel the leader disengage the take-up spool, stop rewinding. It's a good idea anyway, since the curtains can get scratched by a folded leader end.
Out of my F, I've been able to squeeze 37 or 38 exposures out of it. 37 was when the cap on the frame counter was misaligned, but I advanced until I hit what I thought was "1". 38 was when I decided to start shooting as soon as it hit zero.
I'm guessing the EE3 requires a working meter to function? If not, just do sunny-16...
-J
EE3 needs meter or it is locked at one shutter speed.
You should look into getting a half-frame camera.
Quite some security agencies bought 24x36 SLRs modified for 18x24.
Just out of stinginess.
24x36 is quite small enough.
1/2 the frame. Twice the fun!
For 35mm, nothing is more miserly than the Nickelodeon Photoblaster: 144 images on a 36 exposure roll. Done carefully, you can even make a flip-book movie with it.
https://www.lomography.com/magazine/19451-the-nickelodeon-photoblaster
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