Minox film developing

[Ron Valdes]

Can anyone help me . I'm using a Minox developing tank and I would like to use Kodak hc110 and Delta film. Does anyone know what they developing times would be? Would they be the same as 35 millimeter film?

 

[darkroommike]

Most submini film is slit from 35mm or 120 rolls so that's a good place to start.

 

[DWThomas]

Yes, I developed a Minox roll of Delta 100 in HC110 1+63 for 9:30 @ 68ºF and it worked OK. (I had other annoyances with it, but not with the development! )

 

[Bill Burk]

With D-76 1:1 I use the same times as for 35mm film. But I have not done sensitometric testing to confirm. If you have two shots left on the roll, please shoot two frames of some even-tone subject like a wall, two shutter speeds apart. Once you have developed the film with those two shots there are a variety of ways to confirm how good your development time was.

 

[Ron Valdes]

With D-76 1:1 I use the same times as for 35mm film. But I have not done sensitometric testing to confirm. If you have two shots left on the roll, please shoot two frames of some even-tone subject like a wall, two shutter speeds apart. Once you have developed the film with those two shots there are a variety of ways to confirm how good your development time was.

 

[Ron Valdes]

Bill... I've been shooting 35 millimeter for about 36 years. Most of it has been negative film. I'm just now I've got interested in the minox camera. I purchased a feel the splitter 435 millimeter film and a minox daylight develop tank. Also have the developers buy old film over the years and would like to take her hand accusing the minox daylight developing tank it wasn't sure of the times that I should be using for developing my black and white film. In other words you said I could use that mass development chart 4 developing times. Ron

 

[Ron Valdes]

Yes, I developed a Minox roll of Delta 100 in HC110 1+63 for 9:30 @ 68ºF and it worked OK. (I had other annoyances with it, but not with the development! )

Yes, I developed a Minox roll of Delta 100 in HC110 1+63 for 9:30 @ 68ºF and it worked OK. (I had other annoyances with it, but not with the development! )

Would you be so kind to tell me the 1 +63 means

 

[darkroommike]

It's the unofficial Dilution H. HC110 B from stock is 1+31, etc. The usual times for Dilution H are double Dilution B.

 

[DWThomas]

Yes, darkroommike has it -- "1+63" is one part syrup to 63 parts water. I use it one-shot.

 

[Ron Valdes]

Yes, darkroommike has it -- "1+63" is one part syrup to 63 parts water. I use it one-shot.

That's what I thought but I wasn't quite sure. Thanks for getting back and helping me out. Ron

 

[FrancoisM]

And if you want to easily know how many ml of syrup you need, go to this website:
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?doc=volmix

Francois.

That's what I thought but I wasn't quite sure. Thanks for getting back and helping me out. Ron

 

[Bill Burk]

Ron Valdes,

Yes, you could start with the times you find on the Massive Dev Chart.

I say that because it's what I did with Minox daylight tank and it worked out OK. I'm confident that using those times you will get "good" results.

Now these days, I test all my film. That test can be as easy as two shots - two shutter speeds apart. I can teach you how to "read" that.

Then next time, you will know if you should develop less, more or the same. But regardless, the times in Massive Dev Chart will get you good results.

 

[guangong]

I slit Minox and Minolta 16 film myself and simply use the times that I use for 35mm. Minolta film is processed on a nikor steel 16mm reel. Minox using a Minox developing tank or steel Minox reels. Personally, I have found plastic Paterson reels very difficult to work with. My usual film is delta 100. Rarely use faster films since aperture is constant f3.5. Minolta is a bit more flexible with variable aperture but not as pocketable as Minox, especially the III.

 

[bsdunek]

As said, the film is the same as the 35mm, just slit narrower. One caution using the Minox tank. I find that it doesn't work so well with the higher dilutions. There is so little volume that, I think, there isn't always enough developer at higher dilutions. I always use the lowest recommended dilution and get much better density and contrast. Agitation may also be a factor - bouncing the thermometer really doesn't agitate much, so again, lower dilutions help.
I will admit, I rarely use the Minox tank. I have a couple of SS reels that really work better and are easy to load. Just have to do it in the dark. Another advantage is that the cassette doesn't get in the chemicals and mess up the felt light seals. Don't have to do a lot of cassette washing before I can reload.

 

[mgb74]

It's the unofficial Dilution H. HC110 B from stock is 1+31, etc. The usual times for Dilution H are double Dilution B.

Just to be clear, in Kodak's terminology for HC-110, "stock" means a 1:3 dilution of the concentrate.

 

[Ron Valdes]

Just to be clear, in Kodak's terminology for HC-110, "stock" means a 1:3 dilution of the concentrate.

Got it