Minolta x 700

[tantrikelo]

Examples of Agfa Vista here:-

http://forum.mflenses.com/open-topic-best-of-agfa-vista-3-photos-per-post-t55300,highlight,%2Bvista.html

very useful
@(there was a url link here which no longer exists) does the combination of film and camera brings different results?
I mean taking a picture with tmax 400 with my minolta and the same picture again with tmax400 and olympus om2 does it brings the same results?
i think there will be difference,so i have to see sample images of my camera with the film i wanna test!

 

[Les Sarile]

Technically speaking, same film on two different bodies with the same field of view lenses, same apertures in the same lighting condition should provide the same exposure.

Of course, what developer you use with your TMAX400 will affect the results too.

 

[tantrikelo]

if i am saying well it is better to develop the films on your own,as you can prosses them as you like.This is something that i don't have a clue how it is done,but i think i will try to learn in the future!
As far, from images i have seen around the net, ilford 400,neopan 400,ilforn hp5 are some films that suits my taste.For color film i thin kodak gold it is nice, fuji superia 400 and i think kodak ektar....
guess i must try all of them to be sure

 

[Vonder]

IMO, Kodak Gold 100 at about $2 for a roll of 36exp is an exceptional value and a very good all around film.

I agree, it's good stuff. I bought a couple hundred rolls this past year to stock up. Get it while (if) you can. Kodak no longer makes it.

 

[Les Sarile]

Processing b&w is so easy and likely much cheaper and certainly subject to all the controls you want. For instance you can use TMAX100 as ISO100 and I have seen it used up to ISO1600 - push processing. You can of course have labs push process for you too.

What you most likely will have to get used to is the metering of the X-700 or other cameras of the era. The huge latitude of most all C41 and b&w films is most forgiving particularly on the overexposure side. If you don't process your own b&w, perhaps you should consider using chromogenic film - b&w film that is processed like regular C41 film, like Kodak BW400CN and others.

 

[tantrikelo]

In order to develop the films on my own,for begging b/w films do i need a large room,that it will be used only for that?Cause my house is small and all the rooms are occupied.
This process will it smell?

 

[Les Sarile]

You will need to open the film cartridge and transfer it to a film processing tank in complete darkness. You can do this in a film change bag or use a blacked out bathroom/closet. After this the rest of the process is done with lights on. You will need film, developing chemicals and a sink. Processing can take about 25 minutes and another 30 minutes to hang your film to dry. Processing times will vary with temperature, film type and speed. You can process multiple rolls within the same time with larger tanks.
List of chemicals and are largely interchangeable with different brands and subject to personal preferences depending on the results you would like to get.

1. B&W film of choice (TMAX 100 or others)
2. B&W developer of choice (Xtol or others)
3. Stop bath of choice (Kodak stop bath or others)
4. Fixer of choice (Kodak fixer or others)
5. Hypo of choice (Kodak or others)
6. Photo-Flo of choice (Kodak or others)

Example of developing instructions in page 12 -> Kodak TMAX Developer
The whole procedure is probably available on youtube -> Episode 20, how to develop black and white film

 

[Chazzy]

You will need to open the film cartridge and transfer it to a film processing tank in complete darkness. You can do this in a film change bag or use a blacked out bathroom/closet. After this the rest of the process is done with lights on. You will need film, developing chemicals and a sink. Processing can take about 25 minutes and another 30 minutes to hang your film to dry. Processing times will vary with temperature, film type and speed. You can process multiple rolls within the same time with larger tanks.
List of chemicals and are largely interchangeable with different brands and subject to personal preferences depending on the results you would like to get.

1. B&W film of choice (TMAX 100 or others)
2. B&W developer of choice (Xtol or others)
3. Stop bath of choice (Kodak stop bath or others)
4. Fixer of choice (Kodak fixer or others)
5. Hypo of choice (Kodak or others)
6. Photo-Flo of choice (Kodak or others)

Example of developing instructions in page 12 -> Kodak TMAX Developer
The whole procedure is probably available on youtube -> Episode 20, how to develop black and white film

I think Les means Hypo Clearing Agent, not hypo. Hypo is fixer.

 

[tantrikelo]

@(there was a url link here which no longer exists) thanks for the info!!!

 

[Les Sarile]

You're welcome and good luck, good light and have fun!

 

[William Markey]

Minolta X700 Motor Drvie

OP...I know you're loving your Minolta X700! If you want to love it even more, add the motor drive to it...adds the perfect hand grip for such an amazing camera!

 

[tantrikelo]

My first photos with minolta x-700 and fujicolour superia 200 whats your opinion?

 

[ArtO]

Very nice series of images. The exposures are pleasing, the colors wonderful. You've got a winning combination there.

 

[pbromaghin]

My opinion is that you've taken a picture or two in your lifetime and really know what you're doing. Very nice shots.

 

[tantrikelo]

@(there was a url link here which no longer exists)i am a concert photographer http://www./whentimefreezes.weebly.com/ ....but i use a nikon d3.....with film i have not idea....

 

[pbromaghin]

with film i have not idea....

It's just a different receptor. Everything else is the same when the camera is in your hands, especially as you say you have always used manual controls. Heck, with the x-700 the exposure can be almost as automatic as any digital, except it doesn't have the different modes.