Minolta slr's

[Helge]

Because it has 100 speed film in it? LOL I don't need a meter, just sunny 16. Although I did verify with my incident Minolta Autometer II. I'm totally as comfortable with SRT or SRM.

Now I do have a lot of cool screens for my XK which is also SRT-like. I do have diopters in all of my eyepieces as my eyes get older. They made an SRT magnifier, that might be useful. I can see the fine detail when I use the SRT100 fresnel, and also in the outside of the field. Very usuable.

Recently I got within twenty feet of a large buck deer with big horns, laying down in our backyard. For that I used the XK with the 300mm f4.5 MD Rokkor-X. Internal focusing helical small and easy to handhold. Got some great close portraits on HP5+. Very enjoyable

Ok fair enough. It would just seem difficulty to meter accurately even with a spot meter, if you use just some of the “reach”. And a motor drive would create enough disturbance to vibrate a 800mm lens, even on a tripod.

 

[Nokton48]

Really it’s fine at faster speeds. Earlier SRT's and the SRM have mirror lockup. When I bought my first set100 in 1974 I lusted for this lens for press photography.

 

[Helge]

Really it’s fine at faster speeds. Earlier srt’s and the arm have mirror lockup. When I bought my first set100 in 1974 I lusted for this lens for press photography

Press photography‽ How would that work? Unless it’s surveillance photos from a tripod it would seem impossible to do.

 

[Nokton48]

This is a tripod only lens imo. Btw I also have the 400mm Apo Rokkor-X with matching Apo 2x. But that is f11 wide open and this one is f8. Makes a difference when birding for example. Btw I can hand hold the 400mm Rokkor-X without the converter

 

[Sirius Glass]

My problem with this mirror lens and other mirror lens is the donuts that appear in the unfocused areas.

 

[Helge]

My problem with this mirror lens and other mirror lens is the donuts that appear in the unfocused areas.

That can be charming and painterly. And even a nonissue depending on the scene and background.
The more pressing issue with mirror lenses is the low contrast. Pushing the film a stop actually goes well with that. Retains shadow detail and raises contrast.
But the lower contrast can also go hand in hand with the bokeh and create a downright impressionist look.
That’s why I think Nokton should really try IR or deep red filtering with the lens, come summer.
Preferably with a polarizer.
That would create a really unique effect I think.

But of course there is a reason why many amateur astronomers prefer glass for planets and the moon. Better contrast.

 

[Sirius Glass]

That can be charming and painterly. And even a nonissue depending on the scene and background.
The more pressing issue with mirror lenses is the low contrast. Pushing the film a stop actually goes well with that. Retains shadow detail and raises contrast.
But the lower contrast can also go hand in hand with the bokeh and create a downright painterly look.
That’s why I think Nokton should really try IR or deep red filtering with the lens, come summer.
Preferably with a polarizer.
That would create a really unique effect I think.

But if course there is a reason why many amateur astronomers prefer glass for planets and the moon. Better contrast.

Well, maybe, maybe if I find a mirror lens for the Nikon at a price that I have trouble walking away from, I will consider it.

 

[Nokton48]

I bought this lens because I know it is rare and collectable. It fits right into my Minolta SRT era collection. I've seen maybe three or four of this SRT vintage lens around in thirty + years of searching around. It's not a lens I would buy because it is cheap. There are other Minolta collectors around, I'm sure the lens has been on their radar.

I also have the 500mm F8 Rokkor-X, but that one is pretty easy to find and not expensive (unlike this one). Anyway I am stoked to have it finally after all these years.

I like the donuts in the OOF areas.

 

[Helge]

So, how much was it? ;-)

 

[miha]

I also have the 500mm F8 Rokkor-X, but that one is pretty easy to find and not expensive (unlike this one)

Unless it says LEICA. Correct me if I'm wrong but Rokkor 80 cm was also offered in R-mount albeit not as a LEICA-branded lens.

 

[Nokton48]

So, how much was it? ;-)

Unless it says LEICA. Correct me if I'm wrong but Rokkor 80 cm was also offered in R-mount albeit not as a LEICA-branded lens.

Yes I have seen the lens offered in Leica R mount. Perhaps this was when Minolta and Leitz were collaborating?

It was over $1000. Lowest price I have ever seen over the years was $700 (just the lens, not with accessories).

Expensive but I'm glad I finally pulled the trigger. This one is like new condition.

 

[Helge]

Yes I have seen the lens offered in Leica R mount. Perhaps this was when Minolta and Leitz were collaborating?

It was over $1000. Lowest price I have ever seen over the years was $700 (just the lens, not with accessories).

Expensive but I'm glad I finally pulled the trigger. This one is like new condition.

For the functionality alone, I think I’d just get a good small refractor telescope instead. Mount agnostic too.
But I can see the appeal of the smaller size and the vintage beauty.

 

[miha]

Yes I have seen the lens offered in Leica R mount. Perhaps this was when Minolta and Leitz were collaborating?

It was over $1000. Lowest price I have ever seen over the years was $700 (just the lens, not with accessories).

Expensive but I'm glad I finally pulled the trigger. This one is like new condition.

There are a few in R-mount avilable right now over at *bay. However the smaller sibling was offered once as LEITZ MR TELYT 500 mm.

 

[Nokton48]

But I can see the appeal of the smaller size and the vintage beauty.

Exactly. High speed mirror lens for me. F8 is pretty decent for 800mm. My 800mm F11 Apo Rokkor-X is prolly sharper and contrasty, but that is all relative, I must tell you it is exciting to view through this lens, it makes me smile I suspect it is much too big to ever fit a polarizer. Would have to huge custom made?

The more modern Rokkor-X 800mm (not 80cm) I have seen out there for less money. But I wanted a clean usuable complete 80cm lens and now I am done. Although they did also make a 100cm Rokkor. I have seen that one exactly ONCE for Ebay sale, it was from a Hawaiian astronomy facility, and was loaded with fungus! Passed on that one...............

Your suggestion for using Aviphot and red filter is a good one. Orange would give me a bit more speed. I shoot almost everything Panchro and Ortho with yellow filter these days. So it is good to have these for original 80cm. Even have the Minolta Wrench for changing out the filters .

 

[Helge]

Exactly. High speed mirror lens for me. F8 is pretty decent for 800mm. My 800mm F11 Apo Rokkor-X is prolly sharper and contrasty, but that is all relative, I must tell you it is exciting to view through this lens, it makes me smile I suspect it is much too big to ever fit a polarizer. Would have to huge custom made?

The more modern Rokkor-X 800mm (not 80cm) I have seen out there for less money. But I wanted a clean usuable complete 80cm lens and now I am done. Although they did also make a 100cm Rokkor. I have seen that one exactly ONCE for Ebay sale, it was from a Hawaiian astronomy facility, and was loaded with fungus! Passed on that one...............

Your suggestion for using Aviphot and red filter is a good one. Orange would give me a bit more speed. I shoot almost everything Panchro and Ortho with yellow filter these days. So it is good to have these for original 80cm. Even have the Minolta Wrench for changing out the filters .

Once you’re on tripod would shutter speed matter much for landscapes or even distant birds?
In good light you should be able to get one fiftenth or thirtieth of a second with a filter and EI 12 or 6.

You could get a polarizer sheet and hold it to the lens. They are quite cheap and acceptable in optical quality. Makes a huge difference for filtered skies.
For IR you might even use a Wratten 87 in one of the stops?

 

[Nokton48]

Yes I am glad all my cameras have an easy to use mirror lockup mechanism, even with gloves on. Polarizing sheet is a good idea. I have a couple around on the copy stand I have in the studio. Yep would be easy to trim gel filter and add to glass "waterhouse stop". F11 stop is simply neutral density one stop.

I'm going to run some test film with MLU and various speeds. I'm using the original SRM Electronic Trigger, the long version so no touching the camera while shooting. Biggest Manfrotto Ball Head makes it stable. The SRM tends to vibrate -after- the exposure so I am hoping I can get sharp tests so far 1/125, but certainly 1/250?? We will see. Not sure about ERA film but I think I will like it in D23 1:1

Next big project is 250 Exposure SRM Film Back new in box never used. Needs CLA but works now on and off Needs new light trappings inside will be big job. Have the Minolta Cassettes (bunch of them) Eastman movie film, Minolta SRM Film Loader. Fun ahead

 

[Paul Howell]

For those looking for a mirror lens, Shopgoodwill.com has a Vivitar 600 S1 F8, auction ends tomorrow. My understanding that this lens was designed by Perkin-Elmer, early models made in the U.S, later models may have been made in Japan.

 

[Nokton48]

Street Shootin SRT Bodies by Nokton48, on Flickr

I was out today with my SRT100 with the 58mm F1.2 MC Rokkor. Shooting Eastman 5231 Eastman Plus-X for me. I try to shoot the F1.2 wide-open. Otherwise what is the point? Rating the Plus-X at EI 50 overcast. Voigtlander cloth straps very stealth. Original SRT filter YG, SRT Diopter, SRT Eyecup, TomA Softies, Hairties, These are my two go-to's at the moment, 35mm F1.8 MC Rokkor and 58mm F1.2 MC Rokkor. Both cameras operate meters accurate run very smoothly. Good street shooters. Kangaroo skin on the left, red ringneck lizard on the right, from Cameraleather.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Street Shootin SRT Bodies by Nokton48, on Flickr

I was out today with my SRT100 with the 58mm F1.2 MC Rokkor. Shooting Eastman 5231 Eastman Double X for me. I try to shoot the F1.2 wide-open. Otherwise what is the point? Rating the Plus-X at EI 50 overcast. Voigtlander cloth straps very stealth. Original SRT filter YG, SRT Diopter, SRT Eyecup, TomA Softies, Hairties, These are my two go-to's at the moment, 35mm F1.8 MC Rokkor and 58mm F1.2 MC Rokkor. Both cameras operate meters accurate run very smoothly. Good street shooters. Kangaroo skin on the left, red ringneck lizard on the right, from Cameraleather.

I had those two, an SR-7 and many others.

 

[Nokton48]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2n4RpMG] Minolta SRT Era Strobe and Flashbulb Meter 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr[/URL]

Minolta SRT Era Strobe and Flashbulb Meter 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

It is amazing to me how the old electronics in Minolta SRT's just always seem to work. This is unusual, the Flashbulb and Strobe Meter from the Minolta SRT era. Loaded with fresh batteries it reads accurately against my two Broncolor Strobe Meters (the FM2 and FM). Quite accurate for my uses and way way up there in terms of Cool Factor. Accurately measuring flashbulbs is something I'm not sure my Broncolors can do, but the Minolta handles it admirably.

This will now be a good user in my studio. Plug it in, put the incident disc where you want it, pop the flash, and hold the button while flipping it over. The screens and scales are on the back side. Deadly accurate I think!

In this case F16 is pretty much dead on with the Broncolors. Very useful and fun

 

[Nokton48]

In the front is my 100mm F2.0 Rokkor this might predate the SRT? In the back are my two Minolta SRT Electroflashes, once again put some good batteries in and they come screaming to life. I used the flashes in High School Photojournalism, local sports events etc. Great for news photography. Recycles fast and has some power too. In the front is my SRT vintage 3-Color Temperature Meter. I have some Mercury Cells 1.35V coming it takes five. I used to use the digital version when I shot interiors so I'm familar with the concepts but this thing is very foreign to me. The instructions in the big manual are six pages long. A lot to plow through!

35mm F2.8 MC Rokkor and 85mm F1.7 MC Rokkors are darned useful. The 35mm F2.8 replaced my 35mm F2.8 Canon RF and Summaron and the 85mm F1.7 replaced my 85mm F1.5 Canon RF and 90mm F2. Really just as Happy Happy now.

All Good Shooting Tools by Nokton48, on Flickr

 

[Nokton48]

OPTIMUM Duracells SRM Electroflash 80cm F8 Rokkor by Nokton48, on Flickr

Putting Optimum Duracell AA batteries into the battery pack of the motorized SRM, and into my two Minolta SRT Electroflashes, turns them into instantaneous screamers. The flashes fully recycle 100% in four seconds! Amazing. Very pleased with the upgrade. The SRM shoots at 3.5 frames per second with reg Duracells, with the Optimum Duracells I think it's more like four frames per second. I can shoot rapid flash bursts one handed with this rig no problem. Mucho fun.

Here I'm ready to take the SRT101 (has MLU) original SRT Cab;e Release, and the four original filters (F16 ND, Dark Red, Orange, and Yellow). Use yellow most of the time for B&W. And the original Filter Wrench for the 80cm Filters. Nice built in tripod mount so I am starting to think about potential subjects for extreme telephotgraphy. This will be fun. BTW F8 is quite fast for a lens in reflex style of this focal length. I think Minolta was way ahead of the curve on this one! Will be great for lower light when my Wife and I go to the local birding areas around here

 

[xkaes]

I assume it's OK to throw in material on NON-Minolta SLR cameras that use the ROKKOR lens mount.

My latest finds are a Vanta G-5 and a Seagull 24mm f2.8 -- both with the Minolta Rokkor lens mount.

Here's the G-5 with a Minolta POST-Rokkor MD 50mm f2.0.

The Seagull 24mm f2.8 is really a copy of the Rokkor-X 24mm f2.8. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but I have high hopes.

 

[Paul Howell]

As I recall the Chinese Minolta mount bodies were not known for reliability, your copy looks clean, I assume the meter and electronic shutter is working.

 

[xkaes]

Much of that reputation is unfounded, and based on early non-Minolta Chinese SLR cameras. The last of Minolta's final SLR cameras, the X-370, X-570, X-9, X-700, etc. were made by Seagull in China.

When Minolta left the manual-focus market, Seagull and others simply continued to make the cameras -- with different names, of course -- but they also came up with changes and improvements to several of Minolta's SLR cameras. How would you like an X-370 with a 1/2,000 metal, vertical shutter like the XK -- or an X-9 with multiple exposure capability? Or an X-300s with a T shutter speed in addition to B? They made them. How about an X-370 without a meter, but with a motor drive -- or only with metered-manual exposure? You got it.

Or how about this marvel from Phoenix with an RMC MD Tokina 35-105mm f3.5?

For more information check out:

CHINA