Ok fair enough. It would just seem difficulty to meter accurately even with a spot meter, if you use just some of the “reach”. And a motor drive would create enough disturbance to vibrate a 800mm lens, even on a tripod.
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Ok fair enough. It would just seem difficulty to meter accurately even with a spot meter, if you use just some of the “reach”. And a motor drive would create enough disturbance to vibrate a 800mm lens, even on a tripod.Because it has 100 speed film in it? LOL I don't need a meter, just sunny 16. Although I did verify with my incident Minolta Autometer II. I'm totally as comfortable with SRT or SRM.
Now I do have a lot of cool screens for my XK which is also SRT-like. I do have diopters in all of my eyepieces as my eyes get older. They made an SRT magnifier, that might be useful. I can see the fine detail when I use the SRT100 fresnel, and also in the outside of the field. Very usuable.
Recently I got within twenty feet of a large buck deer with big horns, laying down in our backyard. For that I used the XK with the 300mm f4.5 MD Rokkor-X. Internal focusing helical small and easy to handhold. Got some great close portraits on HP5+. Very enjoyable
Press photography‽ How would that work? Unless it’s surveillance photos from a tripod it would seem impossible to do.Really it’s fine at faster speeds. Earlier srt’s and the arm have mirror lockup. When I bought my first set100 in 1974 I lusted for this lens for press photography
That can be charming and painterly. And even a nonissue depending on the scene and background.My problem with this mirror lens and other mirror lens is the donuts that appear in the unfocused areas.
That can be charming and painterly. And even a nonissue depending on the scene and background.
The more pressing issue with mirror lenses is the low contrast. Pushing the film a stop actually goes well with that. Retains shadow detail and raises contrast.
But the lower contrast can also go hand in hand with the bokeh and create a downright painterly look.
That’s why I think Nokton should really try IR or deep red filtering with the lens, come summer.
Preferably with a polarizer.
That would create a really unique effect I think.
But if course there is a reason why many amateur astronomers prefer glass for planets and the moon. Better contrast.
I also have the 500mm F8 Rokkor-X, but that one is pretty easy to find and not expensive (unlike this one)
So, how much was it? ;-)
Unless it says LEICA. Correct me if I'm wrong but Rokkor 80 cm was also offered in R-mount albeit not as a LEICA-branded lens.
For the functionality alone, I think I’d just get a good small refractor telescope instead. Mount agnostic too.Yes I have seen the lens offered in Leica R mount. Perhaps this was when Minolta and Leitz were collaborating?
It was over $1000. Lowest price I have ever seen over the years was $700 (just the lens, not with accessories).
Expensive but I'm glad I finally pulled the trigger. This one is like new condition.
Yes I have seen the lens offered in Leica R mount. Perhaps this was when Minolta and Leitz were collaborating?
It was over $1000. Lowest price I have ever seen over the years was $700 (just the lens, not with accessories).
Expensive but I'm glad I finally pulled the trigger. This one is like new condition.
But I can see the appeal of the smaller size and the vintage beauty.
Once you’re on tripod would shutter speed matter much for landscapes or even distant birds?Exactly. High speed mirror lens for me. F8 is pretty decent for 800mm. My 800mm F11 Apo Rokkor-X is prolly sharper and contrasty, but that is all relative, I must tell you it is exciting to view through this lens, it makes me smileI suspect it is much too big to ever fit a polarizer. Would have to huge custom made?
The more modern Rokkor-X 800mm (not 80cm) I have seen out there for less money. But I wanted a clean usuable complete 80cm lens and now I am done. Although they did also make a 100cm Rokkor. I have seen that one exactly ONCE for Ebay sale, it was from a Hawaiian astronomy facility, and was loaded with fungus! Passed on that one...............
Your suggestion for using Aviphot and red filter is a good one. Orange would give me a bit more speed. I shoot almost everything Panchro and Ortho with yellow filter these days. So it is good to have these for original 80cm. Even have the Minolta Wrench for changing out the filters.
Street Shootin SRT Bodies by Nokton48, on Flickr
I was out today with my SRT100 with the 58mm F1.2 MC Rokkor. Shooting Eastman 5231 Eastman Double X for me. I try to shoot the F1.2 wide-open. Otherwise what is the point? Rating the Plus-X at EI 50 overcast. Voigtlander cloth straps very stealth. Original SRT filter YG, SRT Diopter, SRT Eyecup, TomA Softies, Hairties, These are my two go-to's at the moment, 35mm F1.8 MC Rokkor and 58mm F1.2 MC Rokkor. Both cameras operate meters accurate run very smoothly. Good street shooters. Kangaroo skin on the left, red ringneck lizard on the right, from Cameraleather.
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