Minolta Hi-Matic advice

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xkaes

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I just bought a really nice Minolta Hi-Matic 7sII which works great, but the viewfinder could use some cleaning on the inside.

It looks like a simple job. There's one screw on one end of the top cover, and one on the other end UNDERNEATH the film rewind knob. I'll also have to remove the film rewind knob and the film advance lever -- but I think that's it.

But before I jump in, I'd like to hear from anyone who has some advice for me to keep in mind.

I'm in no rush.
 

4season

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I haven't worked on that specific model, but it's also common to find a screw hidden beneath the flat spring of the hot shoe.
 

monopix

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Screw wise I think the two you mention are it. Might be a nut under the advance lever. Remember the screw holding the advance lever may be a left hand thread. You may find a soldered wire to the hot shoe that needs unsoldering. And don't try cleaning the semi-silvered mirror as you might take the coating off. Been a while since I worked on any of the Minolta compacts so I can't remember the specifics.
 

OAPOli

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I just opened up a Vivitar 35ES which I believe is virtually identical.

There should be 2 screws under the rewind knob; the advance lever screw has a normal thread.

One the top is free, watch for the flash wire and the shutter button which will be loose.

There is a cover glued on the VF/RF unit, with the meter wire taped on it.

As said, be careful with the silvered beamsplitter. The front section of the VF has two lenses, with the gap covered by a piece of tape. The inside surfaces are hazy on mine and I wasn't able to properly clean them.

My camera had a very wobbly lens. All the screws front and rear holding the shutter were about to fall out. The meter needle was sticking. I think the helicoid needs tightening as well, and the aperture feels a bit sluggish. How snappy is it on yours?
 
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xkaes

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The inside surfaces are hazy on mine and I wasn't able to properly clean them.

Thanks for all the tips. I have no idea if I'll have the same problem, but I'm ready for it. Otherwise the camera and lens look and work great.

And I agree, the Hi-Matic 7sII (there were actually TWO, slightly different versions) is basically the same as the Vivitar 35ES, as well as the Revue 400 SE & Revue 400 SE 25 -- and maybe the Konica Auto S3!

revue400se25.jpg
 

OAPOli

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Yes I believe the the Konica Auto S3 and its twin the C35 FD are the same as the others. The Minolta is the odd one out with a manual aperture control, vs. the auto flash aperture of the others.
 

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monopix

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Partially disassembling an Hi-Matic GF:


Maybe something can be deduced from this.

Totally different camera.
 

Andreas Thaler

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Totally different camera.

It doesn't matter, the cameras both belong to the same camera class, with the GF being the simpler version, so they will have some things in common when it comes to opening the case.

You shouldn't be too intimidated and just start dismantling. If you proceed in a planned and thoughtful manner, not much can go wrong.
 
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xkaes

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Thanks. The G, G2, GF & 7 are completely different camera bodies, but I'll take a look -- mainly because I have a couple of G2 Hi-Matics. just a SUPER tiny & light auto-exposure camera (f2.8 focusing lens) but can be used in manual exposure mode because it has GN settings (actually f-stops) for flash use -- but they can be used without a flash. I might get a GF (f4 lens) someday if the price is right.
 

OAPOli

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The issue with the GN setting on those cameras is that the f/stop is coupled to the focusing distance. You technically can do a manual exposure (without flash) but you need to estimate distance via the scale, figure out the f/stop then adjust the shutter speed.
 
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xkaes

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The Minolta G2 doesn't really have a GN lens as we normally think about it. It's much simpler. It basically assumes the subject is about 12 feet away for a flash shot. You dial in the GN of the flash on the side of the lens, and it sets a fixed f-stop -- which you can actually see. The aperture varies by the film speed, but not the distance. This might be the same approach on the earlier, original Hi-Matic G, and perhaps on other Hi-Matics too -- with "GN lenses" -- but I'm sure some have FULL-BLOWN GN lenses.

Other camera makers probably used this kinda, sorta GN lens approach too.
 

monopix

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It doesn't matter, the cameras both belong to the same camera class, with the GF being the simpler version, so they will have some things in common when it comes to opening the case.

You shouldn't be too intimidated and just start dismantling. If you proceed in a planned and thoughtful manner, not much can go wrong.
No. They're totally different cameras. Would be about the same as using a Nikon as a reference to open a Canon. The GF is a plastic bodied cheap and cheerful camera, no rangefinder and built in flash. The only thing in common is the name on the front. And they're definitely NOT in the same class.
 

Andreas Thaler

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No. They're totally different cameras. Would be about the same as using a Nikon as a reference to open a Canon. The GF is a plastic bodied cheap and cheerful camera, no rangefinder and built in flash. The only thing in common is the name on the front. And they're definitely NOT in the same class.

I differentiate between camera systems here.

Both are rangefinder cameras, simpler or more complex.

This means similar housing shapes and thus similar options for opening these housings.

That's what the OP was talking about in the first post.

But I don't want to discuss it any further as it's OT.
 

cmacd123

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Eugene Pate has a scan of the Himatic 7sii factory service manual at

also a tutorial showing work of that model

he wants about 3 dollars per file, which partly covers the bandwidth to keep the site up.
the factory manuals often are Just exploded views of each part of the camera, BUT that will show you EXACTLY where the screws are.
 
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xkaes

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I have an account at LEARN CAMERA REPAIR. I should have thought of that. I'll also see if they have an Olympus RD35 service manual -- I have TWO that have a stuck shutter releases.
 

cptrios

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I have nothing valuable to add to this thread, but I really hope you can get your 7sII up to snuff. I 'upgraded' to one last year after having a pretty good time with a Vivitar 35ES, and the manual control (plus a battery conversion done in a previous CLA) quickly made it my favorite camera. The only problems I have with it are 1. A pesky diffuse flare that can sometimes show up to wash out the center of the frame, and 2. Its 'favorite camera' status makes me afraid to take it on trips, which sort of defeats the purpose!

Oh, and there's this guy's great comparison that shows that the Auto S3 does not in fact seem to be the same camera as the 7sII/35ES/Revue 400SE family.
 

monopix

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I differentiate between camera systems here.

Both are rangefinder cameras, simpler or more complex.

This means similar housing shapes and thus similar options for opening these housings.

That's what the OP was talking about in the first post.

But I don't want to discuss it any further as it's OT.

As I said, and as you would know if you cared to look, the GF is NOT a rangefinder. Do you know the difference?

Bodies are completely different made of different materials and are assembled using different methods. So, no, they are not similar at all.

It never ceases to surprise me that people who know nothing about the subject being asked feel qualified to give advice. But the internet is full of 'experts'.
 

cmacd123

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hence the advice to look at all the manuals, to see what you do have.

Some of the smaller cameras do tend to have been made in whole or in part by Cosina and Chinon so the underlying design may have some common threads.
 

OAPOli

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For what it's worth I ended up servicing the aperture and helicoid on my Vivitar. I used the service manual for the 7Sii. Pretty much interchangeable apart from the manual aperture system (plus the Minolta switches off the meter in manual mode).

The helicoid system has a design flaw which makes it difficult to adjust axial and radial play. I cut notches in the helicoid keys in order to expand their width, for a better fit in the rails of the translating helicoid. You would need a special washer to eliminate the axial play.

I got the idea from the Konica Auto S3 service manual. The Konica is indeed different as was pointed above, and a more refined camera than the Vivitar.
 

cptrios

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The helicoid system has a design flaw which makes it difficult to adjust axial and radial play. I cut notches in the helicoid keys in order to expand their width, for a better fit in the rails of the translating helicoid. You would need a special washer to eliminate the axial play.

I've held two 7sii's, one 35ES, and even a Prinz 35ER, and they all had that little bit of play. It doesn't affect anything at all about the function/performance of the camera, thankfully, so it's all about moving past it on an emotional level. Which is perfectly easy to do until I pick up my Hi-Matic E and my brain goes back to "this camera feels rickety" mode with the 7sii.
 

Andreas Thaler

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It never ceases to surprise me that people who know nothing about the subject being asked feel qualified to give advice. But the internet is full of 'experts'.

Please refrain from making personal comments, we are discussing factual issues here, thank you.
 

Andreas Thaler

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As I said, and as you would know if you cared to look, the GF is NOT a rangefinder. Do you know the difference?

The Minolta Hi-Matic 7sII runs here under „rangefinder“:







So it is obviously a question of a definition of a term in English.

In German it is clear, where a distinction is usually made between „Sucherkamera“ (fixed focus) and „Messsucherkamera“ (with manual distance setting).

But the generally used umbrella term for both is „Sucherkamera“.

My dictionary LEO English - German translates „Sucherkamera“ as „rangefinder camera“:

A.jpg



Maybe this distinction also exists in English with viewfinder and rangefinder, but I'm not sure.



But as I said, that's not the issue here.

It's about how you open this type of construction, regardless of whether you can focus it manually or not.

And the GF is included in that because the housing shape is the same.

OT OVER
 
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