Minolta CLE - Film door won't open

[Yashica]

Hi Forum,

this may sound both funny & silly at the same time, i am shooting film since 84, and since 87 with 35mm SLRs (Pentax MX, 50/1.7 SMC-A)
Thing is, i am way sensitive with that stuff, my new CLE was subtle >1K into Box, all papers, etc. I don't want to break anything.
And this rangefinder does give me a hard time now, just put the batteries into yesterday, today i've bought a new APX 100 as usual -
but i can't pop the film door open, stupid videos on YT doesn't help, neither something else...so what can i do? This CLE does look absolutely
new, not a single scratch, and i hope it does stay this way. I don't want to have some ~1500 bucks being wasted with leather case,
and also new 40/1.4 MC Nokton...sigh. I've had some >100-130 35mm SLRs going through my hands during all my life, never had a issue
like that - ever....

Greetings

 

[Flighter]

Hi, according to this post on the rangefinderforum.com , you pull the knob and then rotate it.

 

[Yashica]

Hi, according to this post on the rangefinderforum.com , you pull the knob and then rotate it.

I do know. But it doesn't work. There's no point, at which the film door pops open. Why the heck the CLE doesn't open the film door like 99.999% of all other 35mm SLRs? Exactly that way - you pull the knob, and the door opens, simply as that. I can't pull the knob up, or out. I can only spin it, that's way silly. I do shoot Minolta since the XD7.

 

[Flighter]

All the instruction book on the cameramanuals.org site says is

1. Unfold the rewind crank and pull the back-cover release knob all the way out.
2. Turn the release knob in the direction of the arrow until the back cover springs open.

Looking at the pictures in the instruction book it looks like the knob should pull out by around 7 or 8 mm. If the knob doesn't pull out that would seem to indicate that there is a problem with the camera.

 

[Yashica]

Yes, i do know. Damn, this seems to be the 2nd worst day into life...

 

[Overrank]

Is this video of any help (around 2:10) ?

 

[xkaes]

I've never owned a CL or CLE but on lots of cameras I've run across it's necessary to press the film door a certain way -- sometimes slightly, sometimes with some force -- because something on the latch is sticking a little too tight. Try pressing the edge of the film door inward.

As to 99.999% of SLR or 35mm cameras operating the same way, not so. Lots of 35mm cameras have the entire back come off -- there is no door. And you'd love the first Seagull SLR -- a copy of the early Minolta SLRs. To open the back , you push in a button on the bottom, then slide it forward, and them push a lever up on the slide. I think Houdini designed it, but I've gotten several cameras for next to nothing because the owner couldn't figure out how the open the *^&*&%%)(# camera!!! You'd love the Nikonos -- you can't open them until you set the lens at a specific f-stop.

 

[OAPOli]

Maybe the light seals are a bit sticky? Try a light pull on the door when turning the knob.

 

[mshchem]

Maybe the light seals are a bit sticky? Try a light pull on the door when turning the knob.

That's a great suggestion. I have a small pocket knife that I use to help with tiny things.

 

[tokam]

That's a great suggestion. I have a small pocket knife that I use to help with tiny things.

The pen knife may be a little bit harsh on a painted metal surface. How about a plastic spludger used for opening phones / tablets, or a plastic guitar pick. Just be wary of deforming the door or scratching it up.

 

[Yashica]

Thanks guys, i do really know how-to pull a film wind spool up. It was new, even into original box, and wrapped into foil. I think i've got a new, (very) expensive doorstop. So far, i've had enough from Rangefinders, would shoot my trusty, old 35 Electro series. And S2b SLR. Someday a MP, or M7...sigh.

 

[250swb]

Seems like the OP has given up after pulling the knob didn't work, but I think sticky light seals is an excellent suggestion, a camera this old is sure to have them anyway.

 

[brbo]

According to instructions and OP statements this doesn't look like a case of sticky seals.

OP said that rewind knob spins, but he can't pull it up and as I understand the official CLE instructions it is only in this position that rotation of the lever will open the back door. OP simply isn't yet in a situation where sticky seals would be a problem.

Just pull on the damn lever harder. But if even rewind lever is frozen there could be more unpleasant surprises awaiting.

Otherwise, do all shutter speeds and meter appear to be working properly?

 

[xkaes]

Maybe this is why he got a good deal???

I've bought a couple of cameras for next to nothing because the owner couldn't open the back. Fortunately for me, I knew how to open it.

 

[Yashica]

First of all, let me explain a few things...I had a friend in the 90s who had too much force in his fingers and tore off the film crank of a Yashica FR-I! Furthermore, the old mechanic's rule always applies - after tight comes off! I've never, ever damaged a camera, scratching a lens, or whatever into life, my gear is always minty and looks new.

I certainly don't pull like a fool on my CLE film crank when I have paid more than >1K EUR for it, into NOS condition. It wasn't cheap - it wasn't used, it's new, old stock. I am not doing that, simply not possible, and it's just being stupid, no hard feelings.

Anyone who says something like that has never spared themselves a camera in their life. So much for that. It doesn't work, I don't do it, and now I have a very nice shelf dust catcher, for simply too much money, because with a new genuine leather half case and new Nokton 40/1.4 MC, it was simple about 1500 EUR, that's it, sad but true. And no, i don't own a Leica, i don't have any other M series body, on which i could use the noct. So i guess, this will sit for a way long, perhaps decades long time that way into the cabinet, what gives. It's like that. Someday, i'll buy a M, if i can afford it...but until then...it's is like that. Lesson learned. I don't buy anymore >4 decades old gear, which i haven't had tested in real life before, onto the web.

 

[xkaes]

As I said at the top, I've never had or held a CLE, so maybe it's time for advice from actual CLE users. I don't recall if any of the responders -- so far -- are users. Barring that, perhaps posting this (or having the moderator move it) to the REPAIR sub-forum.

I'm out of ideas -- and have full confidence in you.

 

[Yashica]

Maybe this is why he got a good deal???

I've bought a couple of cameras for next to nothing because the owner couldn't open the back. Fortunately for me, I knew how to open it.

Lucky you. But i am not like those folks. I shoot film since 84, and by 87 i've had my #1 35mm SLR. I haven't had a "good deal", please don't spread rumors here. >1K for a CLE is not a bargain by any means. A friend of mine just bought for little xx EUR more a M4-2, go figure.

 

[brbo]

I have paid more than >1K EUR for it, into NOS condition. It wasn't cheap - it wasn't used, it's new, old stock. I am not doing that, simply not possible, and it's just being stupid, no hard feelings.

Well, you bought a collector's camera and you obviously want to treat it like that. I see no problem, you got exactly what you paid for.

 

[Yashica]

Well, you bought a collector's camera and you obviously want to treat it like that. I see no problem, you got exactly what you paid for.

Everybody else besides me here is no real CLE owner, it looks like. Thanks for your free comment. I think this topic could being closed here.

 

[mshchem]

It will work out, sounds like something a repair person can resolve.

 

[xkaes]

Everybody else besides me here is no real CLE owner, it looks like. Thanks for your free comment. I think this topic could being closed here.

I wouldn't assume that no one else has your exact problem, or that no one knows how to fix it. And I know that "door not opening" problems come up all the time on this Forum -- usually in the REPAIR section. Last year I had a Sakar SL-90MD with a detached rewind knob and the film door closed. That's why I got it cheap, but it's very different from all other cameras. It took many attempts, but with the help of several people on this Forum, I finally got the #$%%^* door open, and re-attached the rewind knob.

Give up if you want, but others can benefit from this discussion -- that's why POSTS stay here forever, and why there is a SEARCH feature in the FORUM. Anyone looking to open a stuck film door on a Sakar SL-90MD can find the solution in a few minutes.

 

[brbo]

Everybody else besides me here is no real CLE owner, it looks like. Thanks for your free comment. I think this topic could being closed here.

My comment wasn't meant to be sarcastic, but now reading your answer I can't help but wonder if you did read it that way.

Believe it or not, there actually is a market for unused mint condition cameras in original packaging where operation of such cameras is a non-factor.

You said "i do really know how-to pull a film wind spool up", I guess that means that you are pretty certain that the lever can't be pulled out. Me? I would try harder or send a camera to have a CLA (which it will almost necessarily be the case if you want to use it for picture taking) even if you manage to open the film door.

 

[reddesert]

I don't have a CLE. I have used a CL, but that doesn't help because the back opening is completely different - on the CL, there is a separate latch and the back and bottom plate come off as a unit (like a Nikon F).

If you posted some pictures maybe that would help, or not. My guess is that if the camera really is a perfectly new old stock shelf queen, that the back is just a little stuck from disuse. If it were mine, I would try to aid the back opening with a non-marring tool, like my fingernail or a thin plastic or wood "spudger." But I don't generally have collector condition cameras. I don't think it is productive to pay a lot of money for the camera and then let it sit on the shelf unusable to preserve its value - having an unopenable back will decrease its value if you eventually sell it, right? Meanwhile, if you never use it, other parts of the camera could gum up from disuse. If you don't want to pry hard on the back, which I understand, take it to a camera repair person. They can work on cameras without leaving marks. Given it was expensive, the amount you spend for a simple repair to make it usable will likely be a small fraction of the price.

 

[gijsbert]

Lift the lip and pull out the knob and then turn the knob counter clockwise a little bit and the door should pop open. At least it does for me.
Sometimes pulling out the knob doesn't go far enough (I think) and the knob turns freely and doesn't pop the door. Then I push the knob back in and try again. Not the best part of the CLE, but it works - and you wont open it by accident

 

[gijsbert]

I was about to say 'there are almost no seals' but there are just pretty narrow along the edge of the door (if only I still had close focus in my own eyes) and thicker around the hinge.
I'd say it would have to be pretty shoddy seals to 'glue' it shut. If the pull-turn really doesn't work, I would rather guess that the pull out somehow doesn't engage the mechanism that turns the lock.
Hope it works for you, it's a cool camera!