Minolta Autocord - broken focus lever

wblynch

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Okay, so I got my first 120 TLR, a Minolta Autocord.

The camera is pretty near perfect except its focusing lever has broken off at the knob hole. The knob and related parts are gone, did not come with the camera.

I have also noticed the focusing operation is very stiff, perhaps leading to the break-off. I have tried focusing the camera with the nubs of my fingernails but it is a bit difficult and a little painful.

I would like to put the camera to use and I have heard of this happening to other Minoltas so I guess it is a common thing.

My question is, what measures have others put to use to get their Autocords usable again?

Thanks everyone, Bill L.
 

prumpkah

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The original grease used by Minolta to lube the focusing helical hardens over time. Minolta also used an unstable pot metal alloy for the focusing lever, which with the hardened grease is a recipe for lever failure. This is a well known weak point of an otherwise capable and reliable camera. You can have the focusing helical cleaned and relubed and the lever and knob rebuilt (best done from scratch with copper or brass) or replaced with a part from a donor camera. Once done, the focus will be smooth and easy.
 

jhw

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Contact Karl Bryan, up in Oregon. In my book the best Autocord person on the planet. Extremely reasonable prices, and knows these cameras inside/out...might have spare parts sitting around.
 

dnk512

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Also, if you open the back door with the focus in the midrange, the back will swing and press to break/bend the focus lever.
I have 3 Autocords, none has stiff lube.

Google search, some folks have made their own, other send them for service. If the lens is good, the camera is worth servicing.
 

Dan Daniel

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If you want to loosen up the focus, you can:

1) Open the back. Maybe remove one of the door hinges to remove the back completley.
2) See that black cup around the lens? It simply presses in to place. Insert two fingers, spread apart, and twist. It should release after a few tries. Lift out.
3) See that large brass piece? On its outer side, it is threaded. It is this part that moves in and out as you focus, moving the lens panel with it.
4) Well, you can't really see the threads, but if you can drip Naphtha at the joint between the body and the brass piece, do it. An eyedropper, syrige, or draftsman' inking pen. Lightly, let it sit, a bit more, etc. Give it a few hours. The naphtha should be able to wick in and start loosening the grease.
5) Be patient, try not to flood it. Small applications over time will be safer for other mechanisms.
6) When (if?) it loosens up, exercise it. Then drip just a few drops of light oil into the same area from the back when the focus is set to infinity (brass block pulled back into the body). The basic idea is to dissolve the old grease in the fresh oil.

I did this with my first Autocord and it still works well, 6 months later. Since then I have completely disassembled the mechanism for cleaning on other Autocords.

Also, you'll see two screws holding the focus scale in place, one on each side of the camera. Remove these, remove the focus scale, and you'll have a much better hold on what remains of the focus lever. Might even be able to scab something on, superglue a block or such. With the scale out of the way, it'll be clearer what the options are. You'll also get a peek at the same focus mechanism and brass block. Another place to attack the old grease.

A third place to attack the old grease is from inside the viewing lens chamber. Remove the hood (4 small screws) and you'll get another peek at the brass block.

Both of these places, be careful not to flood the camera with oil or solvent. Light, precise applications.

Great lenses, great design. I think only a Planar 2.8 will get me away from the Autocord and have me go back to a focus knob rather than the lever on the Autocord.
 

Rick A

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Thats the one thing that has kept me from buying an Autocord. Now that I've seen the fix I just might have to find one.
 
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wblynch

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I appreciate all the responses, keep 'em coming.

I've got film in there now so I'll look at those items mentioned above when I've finished the roll.

I may well contact Karl Bryan. If the film comes out good, the camera may deserve a proper service.

Thanks again, Bill L.
 

Dan Daniel

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Contact info for Karl Bryan? Much appreciated.

I have a very clean late-model Autocord with a broken Citizen MVL shutter, and I'd like to contact him about a possible replacement part. Or if anyone here has a Citizen MVL (or Optiper MVL, later model, not the original MX) shutter, drop me a note. Thanks.
 

Brian Legge

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Very good info.

I just picked up a near-minty looking Autocord this weekend for $40. The shutter blades were oily and the owner wasn't interested in dealing with it. I spent a few hours last night cleaning the blades through the front of the camera. It looks promising so far.

I don't have a point of reference, but the focusing lever seems slightly tighter than I'd expect. This info could be just the trick. I'll probably be looking at this as well in the next day or two.
 

fmajor

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Hey Dan Daniel -

Thanks sooooo much!!!!

I have an Autocord in pretty much mint condition, but the focus-lever (while still intact) is very stiff. I can feel the grease is hardened and know it simply needs some solvent to get it moving (as well as getting some new lube in there too!).

Thanks to you, now i know how to get at it!!!
 

fmajor

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Hi Dan -


Here's Karl Bryan's e-mail address:

karl.kathy@verizon.net

I dug this out of another Autocord post RE: adjusting focus, but i think i've seen it referenced before.
 
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wblynch

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dpn said:
I just got my Autocord back from Karl Bryan. In addition to the normal CLA stuff, he replaced the taking lens and broken focus lever. Turnaround was under a week (!!!), and his work appears to have been excellent.
Click to expand...

Great news. I have a roll in mine right now. I guess I'll have to shoot it this weekend and send the camera out.

Thanks for the report
 

Dan Daniel

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Mikebarger, write him. My small number of dealings with him gives me the sense that he's one of the good ones, and he'll answer you.

You can also send me a message and I might be able to help you.
 

kfleming

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Karl Bryan's email is karl.kathy@verizon.net. The address is Karl A. Bryan, 6676 SW Dale Avenue, Beaverton, OR 97008-5181. I just received my Autocord after he fixed the focusing lever and lubricated the focusing helix. In addition, he cleaned and collimated the lens, and the results were outstanding. Using Acros 100 and a tripod on a bright day, my test roll produced negatives that could be enlarged to 24X24 inches and still be exceptionally sharp. To prove it to myself, I raised the enlarger until the image was 24X24, and then made an 8X10 print from an off-center portion of the negative. It was superb, and I am tickled pink. Karl was good to work with, and the turnaround time was fast. I heartily recommend him and his work on Autocords.

Keith Fleming
 

meghanhawkes

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Karl's email

I just sent Karl a message at the verizon.net email address and it came back to me. I've seen the same address posted on other sites but all of them are from a few years ago. Does anyone know if he is still repairing cameras and if he has a different email now? Thanks for the help!!!
 

SWphoto

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I think this is the current email:

karl.kathy (at) frontier.com


And I highly recommend him- outstanding guy!
 
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JohnBoyX570

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the frontier email is correct. I just sent him my Autocord and he rebuilt the focusing collar and gave it a CLA throughout... he even popped on a piece of old vinyl where the old stuff had cracked away on the viewing hood. Good guy and very quick turnaround.
 

Ed Ball

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Dan Daniel said:
Mikebarger, write him. My small number of dealings with him gives me the sense that he's one of the good ones, and he'll answer you.

You can also send me a message and I might be able to help you.
Click to expand...
Just acquired an Autocord, cannot wait to run some film thru it! Focus adjustment is an issue. Catches sometimes, sometimes not. Tried your back-of-the-camera trick. Got it to move sure but I think the focus "ring" around the lens is ajar or something . . . any thoughts? Thanks!
 

Dan Daniel

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Sounds as if the set screws on the focus lever have loosened. There is a ring around the focus helical with four screws. When the grease is gummed up, sometimes the whole ring starts moving a bit, with the set screws gouging paths in the helical instead of actually turning the ring.So you may be having the lever switch between actually turning the helical and simply scraping around the helical.

This will throw the focus scale out of whack. Fortunately the focusing lens and the taking lens remain aligned so if you can get focus on the screen, the film should be in focus.

I would get it worked on right away. The force to move the focus lever is not good. You risk either the ring breaking- cracking at one of the set screws- or the knob breaking off. Karl Bryan should be able to help you quickly and easily. karlkathy99@gmail.com

Oh, note to my comments far up this thread about removing focusing scale- the two screws that hold the focusing scale in place on an Autocord go into holes that are drilled through to the film chamber. If you do remove the focusing scale, be sure to plug those holes up. The screws themselves will work fine as plugs.
 
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cptrios

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My Autocord (which I had serviced by Karl a few months ago) just suffered the same fate. The knob got snagged on the edge of a bag as I was pulling the camera out, and snap! Thankfully, there's still enough of a stub that the camera is usable, but it might be the death knell for my time with it. I've just never gotten the hang of focusing.
 

eli griggs

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How about some pics so we can see the damage?

Cheers
 
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