Minimum equipment for fiber based printing at home?

[MTGseattle]

I need to get myself setup to print at home. I scanned through an older (2012) post regarding archival washing, and the differences in people's workflows were quite pronounced.
So, without framing in a new space and running plumbing and electrical, what are my minimum requirements for a knock-down darkroom er, printing station?

1. enlarger with appropriate kit for my negatives: check.
2. Trays for chemistry; sort of check. Do I need to have a fix 1 and fix 2 if I'm the only one printing?
3. safelight; check.
4. gra-lab or other timer of some type; check.
5. archival print washer; check. will likely get placed in the bathtub.

6. a decent viewing spot; sort of check. I can figure this out though.

If I buy some sheets of poly or acrylic to cover my trays, how long can I keep my chemistry? Isn't there a chemical in a small dropper bottle for checking either dev or fixer? Cloudy= bad?

The trays will likely be setup on plywood and sawhorses. The enlarger will sit on a weird box thing I built for something else but will fit and be stable. There may be an extension cord involved, but I have a decent 20-amp circuit ready to go.

My biggest fear is dust. This will be in an unfinished basement with likely just a heavy drapery used as a room divider.

What am I forgetting?

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

All sorts of little things: a notebook, scissors, tape, coat hangers (for the handles of dodging tools), thin cardboard (back of paper pads), a funnel, a 2qt measuring jug and an all plastic kitchen spoon for mixing things up, a couple large bath towels, paper towels ... the list goes on and on.

Bottles for chemistry. Don't try to keep chemicals in trays with poly sheeting - it doesn't work. Softdrink bottles and such are perfectly adequate - don't bother with brown bottles, everything is in the dark already. A photographic thermometer - try ebay before B&H.

A folding table - Costco has nice ones with plastic tops that can get wet w/o injury. You always need more work space.

Trays, you can't have too many trays. One deep tray for accumulating prints in water before taking them to the washer. Tongs are a good idea - the Patterson ones are good.

A bag of sodium sulfite from ebay or the pool supply store - it's used for making up 'hypo clearing agent' and that cuts down on wash times.

'Health care' gloves - the thin rubber ones. I find they make working more pleasant though I don't use them all the time.

You don't say if the area is plumbed. If not then a large bucket for dumping out chemicals etc. and hauling it to the sink. A couple of 1 gallon jugs for water. The system is running water - in the sense that you run with the water.

A paper cutter is nice - there are some inexpensive ones made by Fiskars. Or ebay.

Two bath fixing, using Ilford's protocol, is a good idea. It's not that you need to do it but that it makes things easier. It also doesn't require the use of a print washer.

Windex and paper towels to keep things clean.

Microfiber cloths to dust negatives. Costco has them cheap in the automotive aisle.

Keep the enlarger under a large garbage bag when not in use.

 

[MattKing]

Take a gander through this thread - you might get some good ideas: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/bathroom-and-other-temporary-makeshift-darkrooms.35581/

 

[GregY]

Check out Bruce Barnbaum's book..... you can pass on the archival washer..... trays work fine.

 

[David Lingham]

And a large waste bin.

 

[miha]

And a large waste bin.

You can say that again!

 

[L Gebhardt]

A hair dryer is critical to me. Use it to dry a rinsed off test strip. I prefer to do this over evaluating wet and then applying dry down compensation for the final prints since you can take the strip around to different lighting easily. Really saves paper and time, which saves money.

For large prints look into single tray processing. For that you need a single tray and a set of containers that pour well and have a wide opening so you don’t need a funnel. The print stays in the tray while you transfer the liquids in and out by lifting the tray, or you could add a drain hose for really large trays. If you elevate the tray above the containers you can avoid fully lift a full tray. This works for small trays and is a nice way to avoid creases for all paper sizes. It also means you can use a smaller work area, own fewer trays, and worry less about covering the developer. You will still need a wash area the rinse the print and tray between prints. Get sturdy trays like the Pattersons.

For dust load your film into negative carriers in a clean area. That doesn’t need to be in the darkroom.

 

[Kino]

If you have with exposed floor joists in your basement, staple a square of contractor grade plastic directly overhead.

Helps keep dust from sifting down onto your work. You can even use it to make a two or three sided tent, but don't totally enclose the area unless you have some sort of active ventilation.

The sides can be rolled-up when not in use to make more space.

6 inch round duct fans (used to boost heating furnace output) and dryer exhaust hose make a cheap darkroom extractor you can roll-up and store after sessions. Unless you live in a super new, well insulated house, make-up air is usually not a problem for such a small vent.

 

[Don_ih]

If you have not done any enlarging before, you may want to start with rc paper. It pretty much just needs to be rinsed well, it dries flat, it doesn't look significantly different wet than dry. It also doesn't have that irritating tendency to curl inside the box. And it's cheaper. Everything you would learn about how to get the image you want onto rc paper would apply to getting it onto fb paper.

Two-tray fixing is actually just a good idea for complete fixing. It's like insurance.

Get tongs. Don't stick your bare hands in the dev - no matter how often you've watched Ansel Adams do it.

 

[L Gebhardt]

Get tongs. Don't stick your bare hands in the dev - no matter how often you've watched Ansel Adams do it.

View attachment 350010

Nitrile gloves are another option if you feel the need put your hands into the liquids. Developer on your skin can cause severe sensitivities to develop, pun intended. It’s also potentially toxic and can absorb through the skin depending on the makeup. Fixer will stay on your fingers unless you wash very well and ruin paper as you handle it.

 

[Kino]

Check out Bruce Barnbaum's book..... you can pass on the archival washer..... trays work fine.

Yeah, I have a super nice one given to me. Never used it yet and it takes up a huge amount of space...

 

[MTGseattle]

There are some really good suggestions above. For some reason, I never would have thought to staple any plastic to the floor joists. The simple stuff just hides from the mind sometimes.

This will not be my first darkroom experience, simply my first go of it at home. I ended up with an archival washer through one of many "complete darkroom" craigslist purchases I have made. over the years (I've sold/given away easily as much as I have retained). As funny as it seems when you see them, I even have actual Zone VI drying screens here someplace.

Between this thread and a very generous pm from Ian, I think all I need is a couple more trays and some chemistry.

Mods: let me know if you think I should lock this thread or keep it going. There may be some good suggestions still floating in, but that other thread seems pretty comprehensive.

 

[Paul Howell]

I would add to use trays or large bins for washing, an archrival washer is really too heavy for many of the new fiberglass tubs and shower installs when filled. I have one and tried it in the shower of the double skin bathroom I use as my darkroom, it cracked the floor of the shower, which I had to repair. I use a water driven drum washer, not nearly has heavy as the archival washer. It will take up to 11X14, uses a lot more water and all the prints need to timed when the last print goes in. For 16X20 and larger I use a kiddy wading pool with 2 kodak tray sphines. I get way with washing outdoors as I live the the low desert. For drying I use a set of expandable fiber window screens, with the plastic frame they can be stacked. I dry mine on my patio.

 

[Pieter12]

A Nova slot-processor works great if you can find one. Takes up very little space, chemicals stay good longer and there is less chance of spilling. It uses a special grip to hold the paper that leave to minuscule marks about 1.6" from the edge of the sheet, barely noticeable when dry. Downside is it is more difficult to develop by inspection (necessary for lith prints) but you shouldn't have to do that anyway--paper should be developed to completion, 2-3 minutes for fiber. If you want to use a second fix (I don't), you will need a tray for that, as the processor only has 3 slots. I do have an extra holding tray with water for the prints after fixing them. That same tray gets filled with hypo-clear before the final wash. I have been working in a darkroom built in the back 1/3 of my garage for 5 years with no plumbing and I manage quite well. Water comes in in 1-gallon jugs, used chemicals go out in those same jugs. My archival washer sits on a wheeled cart that comes out and hooks up to a garden hose when I have enough prints to wash. Meanwhile, I let them dry after a couple of water changes in a holding tray.

 

[MattKing]

Mods: let me know if you think I should lock this thread or keep it going. There may be some good suggestions still floating in, but that other thread seems pretty comprehensive.

This seems fine on its own, as it is more tips/equipment oriented. If things evolve in another way, we could merge the two.
And by the way, I don't think "locking" the thread is available to you. Outside of the classifieds, that requires a moderator.

 

[logan2z]

A Nova slot-processor works great if you can find one.

I may be listing one for sale in the classifieds soon. Not sure how expensive shipping will be however, it's kind of big when boxed.

 

[Pieter12]

I may be listing one for sale in the classifieds soon. Not sure how expensive shipping will be however, it's kind of big when boxed.

Yeah. I would suggest if you ship it, use thick styrofoam all around it. The acrylic can break easily if dropped.

 

[grahamp]

If you are using 'sneaker plumbing' to get your water in and waste out, make sure your waste bucket is bigger than your clean water container. You do not want to over-flow the waste... A large bucket with a clip-on top is a good choice. A couple of one gallon drinking water containers with taps work well for a clean supply. If you are not washing in the darkroom, you only need a few litres to make solutions and refresh the water in the holding tray.

I have a small electric kettle for warming clean water.

Make sure your power supply has a GFCI (RCD in the UK) or similar protection. Add up the wattage/current of everything. Most darkroom equipment is low power. It is only when you add electric heaters (or kettles!) that you have to worry about the supply.

 

[pentaxuser]

If you have not done any enlarging before, you may want to start with rc paper. It pretty much just needs to be rinsed well, it dries flat, it doesn't look significantly different wet than dry. It also doesn't have that irritating tendency to curl inside the box. And it's cheaper. Everything you would learn about how to get the image you want onto rc paper would apply to getting it onto fb paper.

Two-tray fixing is actually just a good idea for complete fixing. It's like insurance.

Get tongs. Don't stick your bare hands in the dev - no matter how often you've watched Ansel Adams do it.

View attachment 350010

Given the OP's set-up this is certainly what I'd do

pentaxuser

 

[Arthurwg]

As I remember, Edward Weston created his masterpiece prints using nothing more than a bare lightbulb hanging over a basic printing frame. Of course, these were contact prints made from large format negatives.

 

[Pieter12]

As I remember, Edward Weston created his masterpiece prints using nothing more than a bare lightbulb hanging over a basic printing frame. Of course, these were contact prints made from large format negatives.

He did work in a darkroom with trays, tongs, a safelight and a sink. Just no enlarger.

 

[mshchem]

All sorts of little things: a notebook, scissors, tape, coat hangers (for the handles of dodging tools), thin cardboard (back of paper pads), a funnel, a 2qt measuring jug and an all plastic kitchen spoon for mixing things up, a couple large bath towels, paper towels ... the list goes on and on.

Bottles for chemistry. Don't try to keep chemicals in trays with poly sheeting - it doesn't work. Softdrink bottles and such are perfectly adequate - don't bother with brown bottles, everything is in the dark already. A photographic thermometer - try ebay before B&H.

A folding table - Costco has nice ones with plastic tops that can get wet w/o injury. You always need more work space.

Trays, you can't have too many trays. One deep tray for accumulating prints in water before taking them to the washer. Tongs are a good idea - the Patterson ones are good.

A bag of sodium sulfite from ebay or the pool supply store - it's used for making up 'hypo clearing agent' and that cuts down on wash times.

'Health care' gloves - the thin rubber ones. I find they make working more pleasant though I don't use them all the time.

You don't say if the area is plumbed. If not then a large bucket for dumping out chemicals etc. and hauling it to the sink. A couple of 1 gallon jugs for water. The system is running water - in the sense that you run with the water.

A paper cutter is nice - there are some inexpensive ones made by Fiskars. Or ebay.

Two bath fixing, using Ilford's protocol, is a good idea. It's not that you need to do it but that it makes things easier. It also doesn't require the use of a print washer.

Windex and paper towels to keep things clean.

Microfiber cloths to dust negatives. Costco has them cheap in the automotive aisle.

Keep the enlarger under a large garbage bag when not in use.

Wow, you give great advice.

Soda bottles are amazing containers, obviously keep them such that they are secure. I have a couple of the Costco/Sam's Club tables that I've used for make shift darkroom tables. Put them on wooden pieces to raise a bit. If space is tight you can use a single tray for fixer, just get a couple plastic cottage cheese containers, one for each of the two separate fixer baths. I use 1qt/1L baths each in it's own full bottle.
The abundance of soda bottles of every conceivable size is a great aid. I remember using Mason jars when I was a kid, nothing else was available.
Get a couple packages of hypo clear before it's gone for good.

 

[Rrrgcy]

I wouldn’t attempt to print without a grain focuser. If you’re older than 45-50 it’s sort of necessary or you’ll be wasting effort. Goto eBay.

 

[mshchem]

I wouldn’t attempt to print without a grain focuser. If you’re older than 45-50 it’s sort of necessary or you’ll be wasting effort. Goto eBay.

Good point. Once I eclipsed 50 my eyes require help, there's no need to speed a lot of money.

 

[Kino]

Get a couple packages of hypo clear before it's gone for good.

Wait, what? Is Hypo Clear on the endangered list?