Minimalist Developing and Darkroom set-up

[mporter012]

I'd like to simplify my darkroom set-up beyond what I've already done. I don't really want to use d76 anymore, because i don't want to mix it, and it doesn't really store that long. It's a rather annoying, laborious process in a closet sized apartment. I know to some, it's not a big deal, but to me, it's another step, in an already time-consuming endeavor. I've been reading about eliminating the stop bath, which would also eliminate some space, and I've also read, for example, Formulary TF-4 eliminates the hypo-clear stage, and reduces wash times. As far as equipment, I'm entirely content with 35mm and few lenses. I'm afraid to touch medium or large format, because I'll probably like it, and then have to carry that heavy stuff around! I've read some about Durst enlargers, apparently they are smaller than Beseler, or Omega. You get the drift…

What have some of you done to simplify the process!?

 

[summicron1]

You could buy liquid developer, which would eliminate having a gallon of stock sitting around. Just mix a one-shot batch and toss.

I've never used hypo-clear, never felt the need, negatives from 40 years ago look fine so I guess I made the right decision.

I very rarely use stop bath, and for 35 you can do without it nicely.

They make enlargers that fold up inside a small suitcase, Durst made some pretty small ones. Build yourself a tray-holder that stack the trays vertically.

 

[fretlessdavis]

I used to do the same thing, until I got hooked on MF! I even have one of the tiny Durst F30s and used it a ton... and may talked into parting with it

However, I REALLY recommend the Durst F60 or similar, as it's a *tad* bigger, and handles MF.


+1 on liquid chemicals. HC-110 is similar-ish to D76, and can be measured by a syringe, so mixing is exceedingly simple. Stop isn't strictly necessary for film, especially if you end up using weaker solutions and have longer development times.

+1 on the tray holder, too. I also had a small folding table with a shelf on it to keep negatives and paper on.

I had my darkroom setup in some pretty tiny spaces at times!

 

[NickLimegrove]

I found that using my fixer as one-shot (at a higher dilution) made things a lot easier for me.

+ 1 on plain water stop, no hypo clear

 

[Simonh82]

I don't think you should eliminate hypo-clear if you are using FB paper. If you do your wash times should be extended.

If you don't want loads of stock solutions sitting around then liquid concentrates make sense.

You could do away with hypo-clear stock by getting a tub of sodium sulphite and mixing 20g per litre as needed.

Resin coated paper will avoid the need for hypo-clear and long washes and will take less time and space to dry.

 

[gone]

Citric acid for stop bath. No smell (or just use water, as lots of people here do).

I mix up Kodak Rapid fixer into a gallon solution for film development, and pour it from the developing tank back into the gallon jug when finished. So far, 5 months and it's still fine w/ a clip test. So, only one container to store. For paper fixing I have a liquid fixer from Freestyle that's 2 parts and gets mixed up one shot.

Can't help on the Dektol because I like it and still use it.

I had Omega B600 and C700 enlargers once, and wish I still had one. You can make neg carriers from mat board, and they're compact and simple enlargers. Went to a Durst, and their &$*#! lens boards are propitiatory and can cost as much as a whole enlarger. They have glass neg carriers, at least on the older enlargers, and that's 4 surfaces of dust to deal with, plus the 2 sides of the neg.

Hypo for fiber papers, as has been said.

 

[RattyMouse]

I found that using my fixer as one-shot (at a higher dilution) made things a lot easier for me.

+ 1 on no stop bath, no hypo clear

What dilution do you find works with one shot fixers? I use Ilford Rapid Fixer.

 

[Wade D]

As far as small enlargers go I use an ancient Hansa for 35mm. Other names it went by were Bogen and Lucky. With a good lens it works just fine and only cost me $15. I really can't justify setting up my Beseler 45 for 35mm plus it takes up too much room for my bathroom darkroom. The Hansa also enlarges 2 1/4 negatives but the edge sharpness isn't great due to the small condenser size.

 

[paul_c5x4]

Citric acid for stop bath.

Also a common ingredient in many kitchens.

 

[NickLimegrove]

What dilution do you find works with one shot fixers? I use Ilford Rapid Fixer.

I'm using 1+9 (Tetenal Superfix). Haven't tried any other dilution so far; this one works fine for me. Only drawback is a massive increase in volume of old fixer that you need to dispose of somehow.

 

[bdial]

Using highly diluted fixer is not a good idea unless you also test for residual silver. Even with that, there really isn't much point.

A stop bath should not be eliminated, as you want to keep developer out of the fixer, especially if you want to use an alkaline fix like TF4. But, the stop need not be acid that you need to store, For film, plain water works just fine.

The smaller Durst enlargers are very compact, especially compared to machines like Beseler 23C's. They are also very easy to knock down for storage.

 

[nworth]

There are several liquid concentrated developers for film that are quick and convenient and keep well. HC-110, Rodinal, and Pyrocat-HD immediately come to mind. The choice for print developers is more limited and harder to find, but Liquidol and LPD are out there if you look hard enough. A water rinse for film works fine if it is thorough. Papers are harder to rinse properly, so I would keep the stop bath for them. Stop bath is very quick and easy to mix. I mix up fixer on a session by session basis using a simplified formula (180 ml ammonium thiosulfate solution, 1 tsp sodium sulfite, 1 tsp sodium bisulfte for 1 liter of fixer). Pretty approximate, but it works well and is quick to mix. This gives an approximately neutral rapid fixer that washes out well. TF4 is well proven and consistent, if you want a premixed fixer. Alkaline and neutral fixers do enhance the washing process, but they do not really reduce the wash time as much as a good hypo clearing agent. But washing can be a hands off procedure if you use a good archival washer. That means you can wash your prints for the prescribed time without undo fuss. Depending on how much time you have and on your workflow, you may be able to eliminate the hypo clear. For film, I just run the water through a funnel down the center tube of the tank. It circulates from the bottom to top and does a good washing without my paying any attention to it. Hypo clear would speed the process, but I'm not in that much of a hurry. There are several small enlargers out there that work very well and reduce the footprint of your darkroom operation. I've been using a Besseler Cadet for 35mm for many years, and I am very happy with it. I have seen racks that permit you to stack processing trays for a smaller footprint. They look inconvenient to use, but if space is a factor, they may help. There are a lot of ways to dry prints and film. I hang mine from a retractable clothesline. It takes space while they are drying, but it goes away when not in use.

 

[grahamp]

My old Durst F30 would go into a moderate sized cabinet without removing the head or column. There was plenty of spare volume for a masking easel, safelight, clock, (dry) dishes, tanks, and measures. Chemicals were usually kept separate in case of leaks. The 6x6/6x7 Dursts have much larger columns and are harder to store for convenient setup.

I once had an MPP enlarger, and that had to have the column removed to be stored under my bed!

 

[ParkerSmithPhoto]

How about a rotary drum and base for print processing? That would save a ton of space.

 

[NedL]

For processing film, I have a small box, it fits inside small a "rubbermaid" dishpan and fits on a shelf in my closet. In the box is:

- a 35mm spool and tank
- a 120 spool and tank.
- a 125ml bottle of HC-110 concentrate
- a syringe for measuring the HC-110.
- a small plastic graduated cylinder
- a small plastic funnel
- a thermometer
- a 250ml bottle of stop bath for use with 135
- a 250ml bottle of rapid fixer for use with 135
- 500ml bottles of stop and fixer for use with 120.
- a bottle of photoflo
- an empty HC-110 bottle, that I use for mixing developer just prior to use.
- an empty 500ml plastic water bottle for mixing the photoflo before use.
- a hair tie and some clips for hanging the film afterwards
- some nitrile gloves.

To develop a roll of film, I spool the film in a changing bag, then put the needed items into the dishpan and carry it into the kitchen. When I'm done and everything is washed and dry it all goes back in the box ready for next time. Fix capacity is 6 35mm and 12 120 films. I make fresh fix and stop when I hit those limits. The box is always ready, and if I want to develop a roll of film, I never have to mix anything or go looking for anything. Simple, convenient, and doesn't take up much space.

( I am cheating a little bit: I have space out in my garage where I keep the bottles of stock solutions and other things that I don't need as often. But it's not in the house taking up space.... )

Also I think Parker Smith has a good idea and you can also use single tray processing and then to make prints you just need three wide-mouth ( plastic is better ) bottles: developer, stop and fix. Keep track of how many prints have gone through the fixer and mix fresh when needed. When you wash your print, wash your tray or drum ( or a pitcher with a lid that seals well works great for 5x7 or 8x10 prints ) and you are ready to make your next print. For test strips, you can use a few small glass jars, and then you don't need to wash your tray or container out until you've made a print. Minimal setup: 3 small jars and a container or small tray for the print. Have a "tally sheet" that is in easy reach to keep track of how many prints have gone through the fixer. If you use a 250ml bottle of fixer, you can make fresh stop every time you run through it. If you use a larger bottle of fixer, you will need to refresh your stop bath more often, before the fixer is used up. Once again the idea is that you can go make a print any time that is convenient, with everything ready to go, and not needing a lot of mixing or preparation.

Edit: for FB add HCA or sodium sulfite bath, and a separate tray for washing....

Also: Some trays sold in office stores have lids and the plastic is very hydrophobic, so when you pour out the solutions, there is very little carryover, they are nearly dry after pouring. Some have square corners that pour easily without spilling. I like to use these for my salt prints, which I do entirely with single-tray processing.

 

[MartinP]

Not exactly answering the OP, but perhaps we sometimes get caught up in technicalities. I suppose the most minimalistic arrangement would be contact-printing, and the simplest way to achieve that would be from paper-negs made with a pinhole camera. However, for a rather basic enlarging set up, have a look at this link ! One could certainly replace the developer with a commercial one, use a better lens, reduce flare inside the enlarger, improve the diffuser etc. etc. but the play value is fairly high I think.

 

[Regular Rod]

My film developing darkroom fits in a Curver style box:
Timer
Plastic Apron
Measuring Jugs that fit into each other
Plastic syringes for measuring developer
Funnel
ILFORD Rapid Fixer made up and concentrate (this washes out so well using the ILFORD guidelines that there is no need for hypo-clear)
Tetenal Mirasol Wetting Agent
200 ml bottle of 510-PYRO stock solution (Made up on the stove in the kitchen a couple of times a year)
500ml bottle of OBSIDIAN AQUA stock solution A and 5 litre bottle of solution B (Made up in the kitchen a couple of times a year too)
Thermometer
Clips
Paterson Tank for roll film and Paterson Orbital Processor for sheet film.

I used to use the shower to hang up films but managed to buy cheaply a proper cabinet from a lab that was closing down. This stands in a corner and does its job to perfection.

RR

 

[removed account4]

i'd look into universal film/print developers
for more than 15years i processed film and developed
prints in *1* developer, ansco 130. never had a problem
with negatives or prints from that magical elixir. i developed everything
from 110-8x10 negatives, rotary processor, hand tank, hangers / deep tank, trays
you mix it and it lasts in the bottle as a concentrate for a long long time ( like a year )
use 2 fixer baths, don't skimp on fixing and removing fixer, you will be sorry later on.
sprint also makes a very good liquid concentrate if you like the look of your d76 .. it
is similar to it, and ID11 ... their speed fixer is a liquid concentrate as well ( and stop and fix remove ) too.

good luck ...

 

[Regular Rod]

I've just had this link sent to me.

http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/ag-complete-film-processing-kit-3679-p.asp

It would seem that mporter012 is not alone in the desire for a minimalist outfit...

RR

 

[mporter012]

Thanks for all the great ideas! Never disappointed when I put up a post on APUG.

 

[pentaxuser]

The citric acid stop bath crowd is predictable in everything else. I've no doubt they're also "vegans". And all the rest of that mindset. As for me I can smell glacial acetic acid. One little whiff and it will strip your nasal linings, and turn your lungs into mush. Indicator stop bath is not a whole lot better, 28% is pretty strong. Regular working solution stopbath is nothing. Man up. It's a darkroom, not a flower shop.

I know who you are now. You're are John Wayne's sergeant in all those cavalry films and with him when he was leading "The Fighting Seebees".

I miss those sort of lines of dialogue always given to the battle-hardened vets.

pentaxuser

 

[cliveh]

1) Use Rodinal film developer.

2) Use plain water as a stop bath.

3) Use a rapid fixer.

3) Use RC gloss paper.

4) Perhaps use an enlarger like this:-

http://ussrphoto.com/wiki/default.asp?WikiCatID=128&ParentID=3&ContentID=1511

5) Perhaps use a vertical slot wash tank for fast changes of water and and dry prints on a line of string with clothes pegs.

 

[pentaxuser]

5) Perhaps use a vertical slot wash tank for fast changes of water and and dry prints on a line of string with clothes pegs.

While I recognise that the OP is in the U.S. where a Nova is more difficult to source, I certainly endorse point 5 above

Nova two slot processors use the absolute minimum of space. Even the 4 slot only has about the same footprint as one tray and gives the option of a stop-bath step with a two step fix.

pentaxuser

 

[bvy]

How about a rotary drum and base for print processing? That would save a ton of space.

Yes. I do everything larger than 5x7 is drums -- black and white and color.