Here is the example as mentioned above.
Top one is 1/500s
Sec one is 1/60s
Third one is 1/60s (cut off)
Digital capture of film on light table. I set the white and black points on the 2nd image.
It was kinda dark in the room so I'm guessing ambient had no affect.
This is where I suspect you are mistaken.
The scans you posted are exactly what I would expect based on your description of the lighting and the respective shutter speeds.
Isn't the affect of hitting or exceeding it black bars?
One thing I didn't test is without flash.
But if there was enough ambient light to show, wouldn't 1/4s be over exposed?
I should have also exceeded the sync speed to show that there is no ambient at that bar.
Well, you are definitely having sync speed issues at 250. That's not a surprise to me with off camera flash.
I think part of what is keeping you from seeing the effect of ambient here is the relatively small aperture 6.3-7.1 in this test compared to the f2.8 you were using in post 49, that's roughly 2.5 stops you've knocked off the ambient.
I'm struggling to understand what you are doing here. There are so many variables in your tests, you're really not isolating any one thing.
It appears that your hypothesis is that shutter duration effects exposure under isolated flash lighting. It also appears to me that you are under the impression that your testing environment has such low ambient light that it can be ignored.
The test without the flash is the most important part.
The shots at 1/4s are visibly brighter. How do you interpret that?
There are six stops of difference between 1/4s and 1/250s. Even if the black bars show full shadow at 1/250s (which I doubt. I bet if you pulled the RAW file into Photoshop and cranked the exposure, you would find that there is a hint of detail there), that doesn't mean there is not enough ambient light to create meaningful exposure at 1/4s.
Shoot a series of frames in that light (same f/stop as before, varying the shutter) with the RZ and see what you get.
For a proper experiment, start with a perfectly (or as nearly so as is practical...a bedroom with the door closed and the lights off in the hall and the curtains drawn at night will do) dark room.
Set up something for a subject, set up your strobe and set it so it meters f/8 at the subject. Set your RZ to f/8.
Take a series of five shots, varying the shutter from 1/4 through 1/250.
Now, add a bright table lamp to the room. Don't change anything else, and repeat the same five shots.
Unless something is gitchy about your strobe (ie, inconsistent power output), the first five should be identical, and the second five should be progressively less exposed.
OK guys..
I was wondering if it's possible to shoot a picture using film camera on bright sunny day and be able to have a minmal depth of field and use a fill flash? Say F2.8.. Would you need high ISO or low ISO film? I drew a blank on this.
Todd
Quite simply, if you use a camera with in the lens shutter you can do what you want, also with any camera that allows sync speeds that you can choose. Put simply, set your camera to 1/500 at f16 and use a flash that will illuminate the scene with sufficient light at f16. Now you control the lighting of every scene.
Best,
David.
wwwdsallen.de
Where did I use f/2.8? The only time I used anything other than 6.3/7.1 is to show how low the ambient
Yea, sorry for hijacking this thread. Actually I didn't have a question, I was stating my findings
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