Try refixing negatives with fresh fixer, milky blue should go away. It really sounds like exhausted fixer.
Jamie
What fixer formula was it?
juan
Sandy, your problem sounds like a variation of dichroic fog. Did you use some funky film developer or a film-developer combination that may give rise to it? Did you stop the film adequately?
Sandy, Did you say TF-4 fixer with an acid stop bath? I think you found your problem. You probably changed the alkaline ph of the TF-4 with carry over from your acid stop bath. This would explain why it tested fine. Plain water is all you can really use with TF-4 as a stop, but I am sure you already knew this and it just slipped your mind.
Patrick
Patrick,
If that is indeed the case I will start using an acid fixing bath since, contrary to popular opinion, a mild acid fixer cuts stain very little, if any, with Pyrocat negatives.
Sandy
Hi Sandy,
is the same true of PMK pyro? I use PMK with a water stop and TF-4 fixer. When I need to do N-2 processing, I will use a very weak stop bath - about 1/8'th strength kodak fixer for a few seconds followed by a 30sec - 1min water stop and then fix.
Thanks,
Dan
Hi Sandy,
is the same true of PMK pyro? I use PMK with a water stop and TF-4 fixer. When I need to do N-2 processing, I will use a very weak stop bath - about 1/8'th strength kodak indicator stop for a few seconds followed by a 30sec - 1min water stop and then fix.
Thanks,
Dan
Sandy,
Sounds to me like you need an alkali stop bath. I'm sure there must be a supplier in the US but if not try Peter Hogan at www.monochromephotography.com , as he definitely produces the required product and may even be able to give you some guidance.
Good Luck
N
Exactly what is dichroic fog? Does it also cause a residue on the film that can be wiped away? I recall having a similar problem a few years ago when I was using a water stop bath. Since I switched to an acid stop bath I had not seen the problem again until last evening.
This time I was using a full strengh acid stop bath, so maybe you are on to something. Is it the experience of others that an acid stop bath interferes with the fixing properties of TF-4? If that is indeed the case I will start using an acid fixing bath since, contrary to popular opinion, a mild acid fixer cuts stain very little, if any, with Pyrocat negatives.
I also don't see a reason why alkaline stop bath is necessary, or preferred, with pictorial continuous tone processing of modern emulsions. The story may be different with classic lith development as well as other high contrast applications where development time must be very tightly controlled, or individually determined by inspection, etc. But with the sort of processing we do here, a fraction of a degree of temperature error can cause bigger error than slow stop using water rinse or acid stop bath.Although I had never heard of alkaline stop baths -- the very idea seems oxymoronic -- I assume that these are the sort of buffer baths used for interrupted development of. e.g. aerial cine film and litho films.
The 'all alkaline' route has merit with staining developers such as Sandy's approach, though as he says, density loss with weakly acid baths is rarely significant, but I'd be suspicious of Peter Hogan's assertions that all-alkaline processing is invariably superior and that acid stop baths are merely a matter of convenience. As every authority on the subject, and every manufacturer, describes and produces acid stop baths, and as immense amounts of research have been done both by major companies and by enthusiasts on this, I can't help feeling that if alkaline stop baths and fixers were actually superior, that's what they'd sell.
As I say, the rules with some staining developers -- maybe all, I don't know -- are different but I thought the above formulae (from Haist, as ever) might be of interest.
Regarding what sells, I think if one has a bit of intact brain and wants to make money, photographic chemical is a wrong place.
Which formula is from Haist? I thought those from US Pat 3284199, Maffet and Peters, 1963, assigned to Du Pont de Nemours, not Haist... or am I missing something here?
Sandy, did you mention what kind of film you were using?
Oh I see. I just revised the stop bath section on my web site and included a link to this patent in PDF form.Formulae lifted from Haist's pages as I don't have the patent.
Like I said with a bit of cynicism, it's hard to convince people who initially learned how to do darkroom work with acid hardening fix. If Kodak or Ilford sold an alkaline fix, it would be an instant disaster in the customer support department and they will need a lot more phone lines and email operators. It's actually smart they didn't. I totally understand the advantage of alkaline fix but I still say that.Selling chemicals: true now, maybe, but a good few companies made quite a lot of money doing it -- and none of them ever sold alkaline fixers for general B+W use.
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