MF portrait lens length?

[stradibarrius]

In the MF world what is the best portrait lens. I know in the 35mm world it is 85-135mm.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

135-180mm is fairly typical for 6x6-6x9.

 

[Pinholemaster]

I use either a 100 mm or a 150 mm on my Hasselblad. Many times a normal 80 mm is all you need.

This portrait was made using the 100 mm. It has a nice social distance from the subject. Dead Link Removed

 

[eddym]

I like a 150mm on a Hasselblad; I'd love to have a 180 f2.8, but can't afford it.

 

[narsuitus]

Here is what I use as a guideline when selecting a focal length for full-length portraits (minimum), half-length portraits (average), and headshots (maximum):

645
Maximum Portrait Lens = 195 mm
Average Portrait Lens = 139 mm
Minimum Portrait Lens = 98 mm

6x6cm
Maximum Portrait Lens = 224 mm
Average Portrait Lens = 158 mm
Minimum Portrait Lens = 112 mm

6x7cm
Maximum Portrait Lens = 249 mm
Average Portrait Lens = 177 mm
Minimum Portrait Lens = 125 mm


6x8cm
Maximum Portrait Lens = 270 mm
Average Portrait Lens = 194 mm
Minimum Portrait Lens = 135 mm


6x9cm
Maximum Portrait Lens = 277 mm
Average Portrait Lens = 200 mm
Minimum Portrait Lens = 139 mm

 

[Ira Rush]

Boy, am I getting a lot of mileage with this post!

No, you're not seeing double, I posted this just today in the 35mm section, as there was a thread regarding 35mm and Portrait lens....anyway to the point....

I remember reading years ago, somewhere, (can't remember where) that the way to choose a "perfect" portrait lens is to choose a lens that is about twice the diagonal measure of the film format you are using.

So, for 35mm with the diagonal being about 43mm, choose a lens about 86mm (obviously a 85mm lens), for 6x6 format with the diagonal being about 79mm choose a lens about 160mm (again most likely a 150mm lens).

Now of course "perfect" is purely subjective, but I have used this approach with my gear for years.

When I shoot 6x6, I use a 150mm with a 10mm extension tube. This gets me a nice tight 96% full frame head shot.
Sometimes I'll use a Softar I or II as it may be too tight and sharp, other times I'll use just the 150 and perhaps a Softar. It's all a matter of taste and careful composition.

Hope this helps

 

[archphoto]

I use a 150mm on my Rollei SL66 and the 150SF on my RB67.
An Imagon 200mm will be installed in August for the SL66.
And I am looking for a 250mm for the RB67 some time by the end of the year.

Peter

 

[Q.G.]

Why not try an "image driven" approach, instead of a "hardware driven" approach?

Choose a distance to your subject that gives the perspective you are after.
Then choose a focal length that delivers the desired framing from that distance.
That will then be the perfect lens.

 

[MattKing]

What Q.G. said.

Matt

 

[dynachrome]

I have 150 lenses for my Bronice ETR and SQ series cameras. They don't really get close enough for some portraits so I can use an extension tube or just crop. For the ETR cameras I also have a 105 which focuses closer and works nicely for portraits. When Bronica went from the S to the PS series for the SQ series cameras it discontinued the 105 focal length. I would like to add a 105 S lens. At some point I would like to add a portrait lens for my GS-1 cameras. The 150 is smaller, lighter, faster and less expensive than the 200 but doesn't give quite the same perspective. A friend of mine had a 180 for his RB67 and the focal length combined with the close focusing ability of the camera made it a good combination for portraits.

 

[Pumal]

You can use any lens that fits your situacion

 

[Q.G.]

That's always true, no matter what, isn't it?

 

[Pumal]

Right; if you know how to use them, Error doesn't exist in photography. Experience counts.

 

[Q.G.]

No, always.
It's a tautology: you can use a lens (i.e. it is suited for your purpose) if it fits your situation (i.e. if it is suited for your purpose).

 

[benjiboy]

My favourite for my Mamiya TLRs is the 135mm for head and shoulders, and the 180 mm for tight head shots.

 

[wiltw]

I remember reading years ago, somewhere, (can't remember where) that the way to choose a "perfect" portrait lens is to choose a lens that is about twice the diagonal measure of the film format you are using.

That formula unfortunately fails to recognize the problem of shooting an 8x10 portrait format shot with the overly long frame of the 135 format camera. A better method is to base the FL on the short dimension of the frame!

On a 645 format body, 150-180mm is the 'best' range for waist-up to tight headshot FL. 3.5 * the short dimension (42-43mm) to 4.25 * the short dimension.

On 135 format, 3.5x = 84mm, 4.25x = 102mm (...amazingly close to 85mm and 100mm, isn't it?! )

For 6x7 format, 3.5x = 196mm, 4.25x = 238mm (Mamiya offers 180mm, 210mm, and 250mm for its RZ67)

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I don't pay so much attention to the focal length. With my main camera I have two lenses. It's a 6x6 camera and I use either an 80mm or a 150mm. I love them both and use them interchangeably, even for portraits. Less lenses = less confusion and much better hit rate (for me).
The 80mm lens is perfect for portraiture also, but you have to be careful with how you frame your shot so you don't get too much near-far weird relationships in the print. Unless you want that, of course. I've seen pinhole portraits with a 25mm focal length and 6x6 that were stunning, for example.