Cactus? hmm I don't remember that ... haha
However I don't know about the RB but the RZ does have a hot shoe yes, and it fires all the way up to the max shutter speed of 1/400 synced to the flash with no issues.
To add - the flash question stems from the mention of the cactus in your earlier post.
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Cactus? hmm I don't remember that ... haha
However I don't know about the RB but the RZ does have a hot shoe yes, and it fires all the way up to the max shutter speed of 1/400 synced to the flash with no issues.
I
Fourth, I also use my pocket wizards to fire off the RZ67 Pro II camera with studio strobes, it works great, BUT you MUST buy the NEW pocket wizard Plus III because the Plus II version isn't oriented correctly and gets in the way of the focusing knob on the body of the RZ. There's one work around, if you own the canon or nikon specific pocket wizards and got that little "interference" in between adapter thing, it's a small piece of metal and plastic that extends the height of the hot shoe slightly (and prevents interference if you add an on camera flash on top of your pocket wizard) anyway this little piece will extend the Plus II high enough that you can attach it properly, that's what I used until I switched to the Plus III system and realized I didn't need the stupid connector anymore (thank goodness I was always misplacing it).
Oh wow. I should have read more about the RZ then! Even though I prefer a fully manual camera, I can still fire off-camera flash on my Nikon FG with a remote trigger. This would be a handy feature to have on the RB!
Re-reading your post, I think ill have some more questions on the RZ! :-D
P.s. Meant this below; Are the cactus and pocket wizards different brands? Not very brand aware on this, sorry!
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I meant these (cactus); and umm, I mis-read it - I got confused between different brands.
I already have a hotshoe on the Nikon, so thankfully no PC-sync cable required, I wouldnt require that for 35mm thankfully. Looks promising for the RB, although I am not sure where I would be able to tether or place that cable to!
Ok when you reference a product that someone else hasn't mentioned, you should make it clear that you're talking about some other brand.
These statements are not meant to sound angry, I'm just often direct, so please don't read this the wrong way, you're doing fine, obviously new, very anxious (I probably sound like this to a lot of people here) but try and google some of this stuff before you ask, in fact, try and learn more about this stuff before you buy an expensive camera that you're not sure how to use HAHAAnd READ YOUR RB67 MANUAL!! If you had you wouldn't have asked about the x-sync or other questions.
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_rb67_pro-s/mamiya_rb67_pro_s.htm
I use the CTR-301P flash triggers and they are rated to sync up to 1/500. Not all of the wireless ones do. Something to make sure when researching.
Thanks, will keep that in mind; most of my current set-up doesn't go that fast yet!
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Fair enough, but some only go to up 1/250 or 1/125. It's always good to over shoot with wireless sync speeds because the fastest they sync will drop based on interference, battery voltage, etc.
The RB/RZs go up to 1/400, right?
The RB/RZs do go up to 1/400, but the question is complicated by the fact that the RB/RZ shutters are leaf shutters, not focal plane shutters.
Not sure what gets complicated. Leaf shutters are great because it can sync up to max shutter speeds.
What I meant, is that the question is made more complicated because it is harder to test whether the system is functioning properly.
If a wireless transmitter fires the flash at the wrong time with a focal plane shutter, the entire frame won't be illuminated - this is easy to see in a test exposure.
Whereas if a wireless transmitter fires the flash at the wrong time with a leaf shutter, the entire frame may very well be illuminated, but the exposure may be less, because of the shutter not being at its maximum opening. That is harder to verify in a test exposure.
That's pretty much it.
The "high speed sync" stuff that modern Canikons deliver is based on lower power/extended duration flash that allows for flash coverage over the entire period of shutter activation.
The problem being solved here is that, unlike leaf shutters, focal plane shutters (above their rated sync speed) do not expose the entire film plane at the same instant: The "closing" shutter starts closing before the "opening" shutter is fully open. Think of it as a slit being waved over the film/sensor.
Yes, on all accounts above.
One thing about the ND filter is that it's not a single bullet fix. When using, say, a two stop ND filter, you have to adjust your power as if you're shooting 2 stops slower film. This means more power is required.
What I meant, is that the question is made more complicated because it is harder to test whether the system is functioning properly.
If a wireless transmitter fires the flash at the wrong time with a focal plane shutter, the entire frame won't be illuminated - this is easy to see in a test exposure.
Whereas if a wireless transmitter fires the flash at the wrong time with a leaf shutter, the entire frame may very well be illuminated, but the exposure may be less, because of the shutter not being at its maximum opening. That is harder to verify in a test exposure.
Yes I agree, but again, if you're opening up your aperture to the point you need an ND filter above 1/400 of a second, and a 1200ws strobe isn't enough for you for the scene, it's a pretty specialized scene and you should be able to afford more specialized equipment at that point... Haha
I'm going on the assumption that if you're shooting with a pro level camera that has a 1/400 leaf shutter you're a pro with pro lighting of at least 1200ws of power.
I don't often NEED that much power, but I certainly have that much in the field and double that in the studio.
If you're only shooting with 300-600ws of power you might be somewhat limited, but I don't think many out there who could afford $2,000+ camera systems somehow can't afford the lighting to match.
Assumptions, all assumptions...
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Couldn't you do the white wall test? Shoot a white wall at a high speed (little ambient light) and see if there is light "fall off".
$2000+ camera? My Mamiya Pro and Bronica SQ-A kits together don't come to that price.With the prices of MF gear now adays, it allows for serious hobbiest or professional wannabes to step up their film gear and shoot with awesome setups. I'm definitely stepping up my lighting, but I'm not near 1200ws yet.
Ha, define art.
Meh. I shoot because I like it. I'm trying to make a side "business" from it mainly shooting film. Mostly because I enjoy it and hope others do also. The ultimate promotion of film would be to have people hire me just for that. When/if that takes off, more/better gear will come flowing my way.
Oh yeah, You're not really a photographer if you don't shot 4x5 or larger.or so I heard.
Originally Posted by MattKing (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
What I meant, is that the question is made more complicated because it is harder to test whether the system is functioning properly.
If a wireless transmitter fires the flash at the wrong time with a focal plane shutter, the entire frame won't be illuminated - this is easy to see in a test exposure.
Whereas if a wireless transmitter fires the flash at the wrong time with a leaf shutter, the entire frame may very well be illuminated, but the exposure may be less, because of the shutter not being at its maximum opening. That is harder to verify in a test exposure.
Couldn't you do the white wall test? Shoot a white wall at a high speed (little ambient light) and see if there is light "fall off".
There won't be light fall off. The light transmitted by the leaf shutter will be even, it is just that due to the nature of a leaf shutter, it will perform in a manner similar to a second aperture. If the shutter isn't fully open when the flash fires, the shutter may effectively stop down the lens further than the set, normal aperture.
Fair enough, but some only go to up 1/250 or 1/125. It's always good to over shoot with wireless sync speeds because the fastest they sync will drop based on interference, battery voltage, etc.
The RB/RZs go up to 1/400, right?
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