Metz 45 CT-4 Repair

ic-racer

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I got a Metz 45 CT-4 for a few dollars. Wondered if it works or if it can be fixed.
 
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I attached a power supply to the electrodes deep in side the handle and got the unit to power up and fire. Good news. So it will be worthwhile to figure out a battery.

It came with the Nicad pack that was leaking and corroded. Even the negative wire (blue) corroded through and broke.

They did make a five AA pack but they are not easy to find. One on ebay for $50.

I think I'll replace the cells in this one.

 
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I took the pack apart and made notes on the battery orientation, wiring and location of the insulating pads.

 
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ic-racer

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I soldered five Eneloop batteries together in the same configuration. The Eneloop batteries are a little bit longer so it was a tight squeeze.
 
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ic-racer

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The wires are too short and need to be replaced. They originate in the charging circuit in the base of the pack.

 
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New wires cut to length longer than the old ones. Then soldered on to the charging circuit board.
 
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Contacts cleaned, ready to be re-installed in the housing.
 
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Housing with the new batteries and new wires:
 
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ic-racer

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Charging circuit works. Basically just a lamp and a rectifier circuit for the AC power supply with an incandescent indicator lamp. When current stops flowing (the pack is charged) the light has no current through it and it no longer illuminates.
 
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ic-racer

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I did take the head unit apart for inspection. Nothing wrong with it.

When working on flash units, be sure to discharge the capacitor through a resistor. This unit had about 300v when I opened it.

In this case the other end of the jumper wire is clamped on the other end of the flash tube. The resistor is touched and held to the end of the flash tube (red wire). After a minute or so it is down to about 20 v.

 
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Of note: I took the head apart because the ASA/DIN dial would not turn.

It happens because when the accessory diffuser is in place, the ASA/DIN gets locked in place one stop lower via an automated mechanical connection. This is not really explained at all in the manual.

So, you need to make sure the accessory diffuser is off before setting the ASA/DIN dial.

The picture at the beginning of the thread shows the accessory diffuser in place.
 

Nicholas Lindan

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Digikey is a very good place for battery packs - they make them up with welded connections between the cells. You can get them in NiCad or NiMH; NiMH is a bit lower in voltage but I haven't found anything that won't work with them. NiMH cells live longer and hold a larger charge. And the Eneloop batteries are very good.

Soldering to battery terminals can be problematic - depends on the battery.
 

baachitraka

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I did not reconstruct the battery basket as elegant like you. Rather rewired internally to take NiMH batteries with the standard battery basket and it works as expected.

*these hammer heads are very good.
 

Chan Tran

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I have 4 of them flashes, 1 45-CT4 and 3 45-CL4. So I have 4 of them AA holders. I use a Quantum battery pack with them most of the time so I may be able to get by with 3.
 
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jk0592

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A long time ago, the Nicads for my CT-4 failed, and so at the time I did get the AA battery pack from the camera store.The flash still works correctly. But I have the old nicad pack lying around somewhere, I will try to repair that pack somewhat like what you did.
Thank you for posting this.
 

baachitraka

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as said, without rebuilding the NiCads it is easier to rewire internally so that the normal battery basket can take NiMH. But if someone is rebuilding for cheaper price then I would rebuild them to have a convenient charging.
 

Chan Tran

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baachitraka said:
as said, without rebuilding the NiCads it is easier to rewire internally so that the normal battery basket can take NiMH. But if someone is rebuilding for cheaper price then I would rebuild them to have a convenient charging.
Click to expand...

You have to modify the alkaline battery holder to take advantage of the NiCad (or today we would use NiMH) because the 2 power pins on the alkaline holder and the NiCad pack are not the same location.
 

baachitraka

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Chan Tran said:
You have to modify the alkaline battery holder to take advantage of the NiCad (or today we would use NiMH) because the 2 power pins on the alkaline holder and the NiCad pack are not the same location.
Click to expand...

especially for Metz 45 CT4 it possibly to rewire internally and use NiMH in the normal battery basket.

Unfortunately the link is not working to show how it is done.
 
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ic-racer

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First off, this was just a Sat AM project using things I had laying around. I actually bid on a second bulk loader (as I have that 72 exposure film from the group order coming) and when I won the auction, the flash came 'free' with the loader.

I wasn't sure if I was going to buy into the Metz 45 CT/CL system in place of the old Rollei E36RE.

So, yes the cells that I had laying around were just soldered together, not welded.

Charging: due to the way Metz designed the system, the charging pegs on the pack only accept an AC 'float' charger that is supplied. Sure one could re-deisgn the pack to accept a proper Nimh charger, but not on this busy Sat AM.

I was more interested in seeing how the Eneloops would behave whith this supplied Metz charger. Seems, someone already did the experiment and it seems like it should work fine.

See here (from https://goughlui.com/2019/04/14/experiment-charging-ni-mh-batteries-with-constant-voltage/)
 
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Even though the Metz 45 CT-4 is an older model, it is still much newer and has many more features than my old standby E36RE of which I have only one remaining that still works (converted to LiPo power).
 

Nicholas Lindan

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I have found charging circuits designed for NiCads work fine with NiMH. Been doing it for 20+ years with no issues.

NiCads are just bloody evil.

I have a gel-cell battery pack for my Metz kicking around somewhere; I should probably check that it hasn't leaked.
 
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