Metering and LF - 1° vs 5°

[Kirks518]

I have 3 primary light meters; Sekonic L-308S, Minolta Spot Meter M, and a Sekonic L-408

Typically, I was using the M for any (and all) LF, and the L-308s for smaller formats and 'studio' work.

I just acquired the L-408, and it almost has the best of both of the other meters; flash metering and a spot meter. Unfortunately, the spot meter on the L-408 is 5°, vs 1° on the M.

How useless is a 5° spot for LF work? Will I just end up frustrated with it, or will it suffice in 'most' situations? Ideally, I'd like to sell off the L-308s and the M, but if I'll later regret parting with the M, I'd rather keep it.

 

[Alan9940]

IMO no meter is useless for LF work. I use a 1 degree spot meter mostly because that's what I've used for 40 years--so I'm very comfortable with it--and because I shoot mostly B&W using loose Zone System principles. I know several B&W LF photographers who use a 5 degree meter. Phil Davis and his Beyond the Zone System principles utilizes an incident meter. It's all good!

Personally, I'd prefer a 1/2 degree spot because measuring high values in clouds is difficult even with a 1 degree meter. There was such a meter made many, many years ago--can't remember the name of it...Ansel used one early on--but it's my understanding that it was cumbersome to learn how to use it properly. I would guess that you'd want an incident meter for your studio work. What's the harm of keeping 'em all?

Best regards,
AlanH

 

[wiltw]

Once again, "It depends!" upon what you are trying to shoot, at what distance. Here is a list of distances to subject in the first row, followed by width of spot (ft) for one degree, then for five degree meter

100 500 1000 2500 5280 26400
1.75 8.75 17.5 43.75 92.4 462
8.75 43.75 87.5 218.75 462 2310

 

[Kirks518]

The L-308s would be first to go. It's a great meter, but the 408 does all the 308 does, but also has the spot ability. I also wouldn't mind putting the cash towards something else. I think right now I'm meter-rich, with no real reason for having all of them.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have 3 primary light meters; Sekonic L-308S, Minolta Spot Meter M, and a Sekonic L-408

Typically, I was using the M for any (and all) LF, and the L-308s for smaller formats and 'studio' work.

I just acquired the L-408, and it almost has the best of both of the other meters; flash metering and a spot meter. Unfortunately, the spot meter on the L-408 is 5°, vs 1° on the M.

How useless is a 5° spot for LF work? Will I just end up frustrated with it, or will it suffice in 'most' situations? Ideally, I'd like to sell off the L-308s and the M, but if I'll later regret parting with the M, I'd rather keep it.

The Sekonic L-308s would be first to go. It's a great meter, but the 408 does all the 308 does, but also has the spot ability. I also wouldn't mind putting the cash towards something else. I think right now I'm meter-rich, with no real reason for having all of them.

I agree with what Kirks518 said, however the L-308S does have EV readout which is great for the Hasselblad. The 1° and 5° spots are great for (1)getting one particular area in the Zone that you want it to be in and (2) to get samples of light readings throughout the FOV when dealing with high SBR.

 

[Kirks518]

The L-408 also has an EV readout.

The interesting thing about the L-408 is there is very little user info out there. Looks like not many were sold back in the day.

 

[RobC]

I like my Minolta spot F because you can scan subject with trigger pulled and get real time SBR from first metered point. Does the sekonic do that?
1 or 5 degree will work depending on subject, its distance and the size of bit you are metering. Obviously 1 degree gives you finer selection of whats being metered which may be important for some subjects. I'd keep them all if I owned them all. You never know when you'll need a backup or two.

 

[Alan Gales]

I use a Pentax digital 1 degree spot meter. I use it for large format and I use it for my 35mm Stereo Realist camera. When I owned a medium format camera I used it for it. I do use a Minolta Flashmeter lV with strobes.

If you like the 5 degree spot of the Sekonic and it works for you then fine. Some successful large format photographers use incident meters. I think the most important thing about light meters is to find one that you are comfortable with and use it until it's second nature.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have been known to take the Nikon F-100 sp0otmeter and use it will a 300mm lens to get a brightness reading for my Hasselblads and 4"x5" cameras when there is a large scene SBR.

 

[Bill Burk]

IMO no meter is useless for LF work. I use a 1 degree spot meter mostly because that's what I've used for 40 years--so I'm very comfortable with it--and because I shoot mostly B&W using loose Zone System principles. I know several B&W LF photographers who use a 5 degree meter. Phil Davis and his Beyond the Zone System principles utilizes an incident meter. It's all good!

Personally, I'd prefer a 1/2 degree spot because measuring high values in clouds is difficult even with a 1 degree meter. There was such a meter made many, many years ago--can't remember the name of it...Ansel used one early on--but it's my understanding that it was cumbersome to learn how to use it properly. I would guess that you'd want an incident meter for your studio work. What's the harm of keeping 'em all?

Best regards,
AlanH

The SEI Photometer, a real joy to fiddle with. I wouldn't bring it in the field though because it's fragile. But if you have the spare cash and see one floating around, pick it up.