Meter recommendations

R.Gould · Nov 15, 2016

chriscrawfordphoto said:
No. I personally would not buy any used Weston meter unless you know it has had its selenium cell replaced. I have handled an enormous number of Westons. I have not seen one that was still accurate. The later models, the Master IV and Master V, are virtually always dead. As in the needle won't move at all no matter how bright the light. The older Master, Master II and Master III usually still respond to light but have weak cells.

I have a Master V that I bought from Ian Patridge, a British man who had selenium cells custom made, since the originals are all used up now. He restores Westons and also repairs them. My Master V works great but it was fully restored with a new cell before Mr. Patridge sold it to me. They're not cheap, though. About $150.

http://ian-partridge.com/lightm.html

I have several westons from a master 3 to euromaster, including a EKI euromaster, and they are all accurate, when tested against my sekomic that I use for flash metering, I by far prefer to use my Westons to my sekonic when out and about, spot on accurate and easier to use in regard to selection of shutter speed/f stop choice, and when I started using the Weston's I learnt far more about exposure than any course could teach me by reading the instruction leafleat

thuggins · Nov 15, 2016

I have accumulated an assortment of meters over the years, from extinction meters to ones that predate the ASA scale to a fancy Sekonic L-228 spot meter and everything in between. Nearly all the selenium meters are still working after all these years, while the plastic fantastic ones that require batteries (such as the Luna Pro that folks have mentioned above) have invariably crapped out. I also prefer to use a classic meter when using a classic camera as it only seems fitting.

My favorite is the Ikophot Rapid with the match needle. I've got two of these and they are still dead on after more than 50 years. These measure the whole range of typical lighting without using either a booster cell or a window, so you don't have to estimate the amount of light first to get the meter set up properly. As I typically shoot transparency film, a light meter is critical for every shot and the little Ikophot always performs flawlessly even in tough light situations. For reliability, size and convenience it beats out just about any "modern" meter.

jspillane · Nov 16, 2016

What I use, after fussing with different options on and off:

For travel = Gossen Digisix
Simple, easy, dependable, small.

For studio = Sekonic L-398A
Analog, beautiful to read and use, adaptable, and I like having all of the information laid out in front of me at once on it...

To pair with a TLR, I think the Digisix is perfect.

andrewf · Nov 17, 2016

I currently use a Sekonic 758. I had the 358 incident meter but really wanted a spot meter for landscapes.

The 758 is quite a big meter. Bigger than the 358 anyway. Makes it less enjoyable to carry around, if you're treking or trying to travel as light as possible.

In terms of functionality, it's pretty much perfect for me. It is very accurate and has an intuitive interface.

I sold my 358 on ebay (didn't get anywhere near what I wanted but whatever) and bought the 758 second hand on ebay. sometimes I miss the 358 just because it was easier to throw in a pocket but such is life! I can't afford both

chromacomaphoto · Nov 17, 2016

Bill Burk said:
It's a solid piece of gear. I have dropped it in a river (don't try this at home) and while tinkering with it I stripped the threads on the dial screw. OK that made the dial fall off, but still with a little spot of glue it's back together.

Note to self, do not tinker with my 208, leave it well alone!

TSSPro · Nov 17, 2016

Sekonic L-758DR I've used a 758 for years and the one I'm using has pocket wizard transmitter inside the meter, so my life is easier in the studio. It's big, expensive, and very versatile. I don't leave home without it Hope that you're able to make a decision that is right for you! With this meter you are able to make custom profiles for metering using the sekonic 758, however the process is geared toward a digital or digitized product to calibrate the meter profiles.

jgoody · Nov 17, 2016

Thanks again for all the feedback. I was torn between the all the choices, almost went with the Digisix or the Sekonic 308 series, but ended up ordering a Luna Pro SBC from Igor (with whom I had a good experience with the Autocord). Hopefully I will not find it too enormous when it arrives!

Marcelo Paniagua · Nov 17, 2016

Also, while shooting meterless Screw Mount Leicas or FSU Fed or Zorky I use this:

http://www.jollinger.com/photo/meters/meters/ge_pr1.html

Useful outdoors on shadows but unfortunatly doesnt do it that good on low light.

Pretty small and handy.

AgX · Nov 17, 2016

jgoody said:
Hopefully I will not find it too enormous when it arrives!

You have not ordered the Profi-Spot attachment yet...

HiHoSilver · Nov 18, 2016

Its big & has enough info on the dial to take some getting familiar with, but I have loved mine - bought from a seller here. 'Very happy with it - especially its low light abilities.

jgoody · Nov 22, 2016

I received the Luna Prod SBC -- it's big! The ability to sample areas and see the delta in + or - stops (up to 3 either way) is pretty cool. Seems to match my Olympus OM 2 readings so I am happy so far....

trondsi · Nov 23, 2016

I really like my Weston Master 5 meter. It doesn't even need batteries, and it is a great incident meter when used with the invercone. Only buy from someone who guarantees that it works though.

jgoody · Nov 23, 2016

Having gotten the meter I am beginning to think about exposure more and have a few questions. I've read some here on the subject but it is a little arcane -- so please excuse my ignorance!
Assuming I am shooting color negative film and I meter the shadows and highlights with an incident meter and get a 5 stop difference. If I set the shadows at -2 and the highlights fall at +3 then that would be about correct exposure -- assuming everything is of equal importance in the frame. If say the subject was in the shadows I would perhaps add a stop so as to favor the shadows, or even add the 2 stops and let the highlights burn a little. Is that somewhat logical?
Adding to my confusion is that if I meter my hand in reflective mode (in the shadows) the meter tells me I am 1 stop overexposing compared to the incident reading of the same area (of course the meter pointed in the opposite direction). The reflective measurements match 2 different OM camera meters so I think the calibration of the meter is ok.

trondsi · Nov 23, 2016

So the reflective meter suggested less exposure? I am guessing that you are white person then It's your skin color that is brighter than a neutral grey.

jgoody · Nov 23, 2016

So my hand is a full stop or stop and a half brighter than neutral grey?

faurefan · Nov 23, 2016

I have a Gossen Lunasix (the old one, not a Pro) and a Sekonic L-398.

I prefer the Lunasix by far. I had to get an adapter for modern batteries, but it's easier to read, measures more easily in low light (i.e. you don't have to pull out an insert to get readings when it's less than sunny), and is better for reflected readings.

The Gossen also easier on my eyes (though I think the L-398A would best the 398 in that respect). It also holds the reading and the dial isn't easily swiveled off the reading in your pocket or even in your hand as the Sekonic is.

I think it depends what you're using the meter for. If you're out on the street shooting, something more like the Gossen. The Sekonic is probably more of a studio workhorse.

AgX · Nov 23, 2016

jgoody said:
So my hand is a full stop or stop and a half brighter than neutral grey?

I sometimes use my hand as substitute greycard (hardly can loose it), knowing the deviation of my hand from the grey card.

NoClewAtol · Nov 24, 2016

jgoody, your logic seems fine. I find my honky hand is about 1/2-2/3 stop lighter than a grey card and rather dependent on angle to light direction. I actually carry a small grey card. My first meter was a Polaris flash meter and it still works well but the "spot" attachment is marginal. I eventually got a L508 which is wonderful but both meters are a bit large for my usual walk-abouts. I also have a digisix 2 which is just right in size and seems to work well. The digisix 2 and the Polaris are genuine cheap plastic but both have been surprisingly durable.

wiltw · Nov 24, 2016

jgoody said:
So my hand is a full stop or stop and a half brighter than neutral grey?

NoClewAtol said:
jgoody, your logic seems fine. I find my honky hand is about 1/2-2/3 stop lighter than a grey card and rather dependent on angle to light direction.

A tanned honky hand might only be +0.5EV or +0.66EV brighter than 18% grey, but it is seasonally offset in its brightness (summer tans vs. winter pallor). The human palm is said to be less seasonally variable, and even is rather consistent across ethnic differences at about +1EV brighter than 18% midtone.
Having spotmetered my own Asian-heritage palm with precision of 0.1EV in the reading, I have actually measured +1.3EV brighter.

cliveh · Nov 24, 2016

Perhaps someone should produce an EV scale for different skin hues of nationalities around the world, taking into account their residence in northern or southern latitude within the larger countries?

Bill Burk · Nov 24, 2016

wiltw said:
A tanned honky hand might only be +0.5EV or +0.66EV brighter than 18% grey, but it is seasonally offset in its brightness (summer tans vs. winter pallor). The human palm is said to be less seasonally variable, and even is rather consistent across ethnic differences at about +1EV brighter than 18% midtone.
Having spotmetered my own Asian-heritage palm with precision of 0.1EV in the reading, I have actually measured +1.3EV brighter.

Perhaps you can compare your palm's deviation from incident reading, and deviation from a 12% gray... Because that's where I would expect 1 EV

frank · Nov 24, 2016

The palms of hands are less variable in reflectance than the backs of hands. I think that a grey card is unnecessary because the bare blue sky and the green of a lawn are very close in reflectance to medium grey and you don't have to carry them around. Or the palm of your hand (and open up a stop) is always nearby and handy.

Leigh B · Nov 25, 2016

Bill Burk said:
... and deviation from a 12% gray... Because that's where I would expect 1 EV

Where did you find a 12% reflectance gray card?

All the ones I've ever seen are 18%, because that's what the "average" of photographic scenes is supposed to be.

- Leigh

MattKing · Nov 25, 2016

Leigh B said:
Where did you find a 12% reflectance gray card?

All the ones I've ever seen are 18%, because that's what the "average" of photographic scenes is supposed to be.

- Leigh

Actually, the cards are 18%, because that is how they started out.
Average reflectance of photographic scenes is 12%.
Which explains the very specific instructions on how to use a gray card if you are using it as a metering (rather than printing) aid.

moto-uno · Nov 25, 2016

Didn't Ctein write that originally these cards were to be held at about 45 degrees , which brought it's reflectance down to about 12 % ?
Peter

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