Hi, did you read my full post ?
I have a habit of typing out of sequence but I was referring to how best to work metal into profiles. I don't think wood would work at all for what I was talking about, pesky grain, dimensional conflict issues etc... and it doesn't take kindly to welding either
But yes, out of all the things I could and should have learned by now with metal work is that without proper set up your work will be next to useless (and likely dangerous) ...
This thread is part of a larger scheme of mine to gain that expertise you mention. I'm at the point where the only thing left is to start really working with it
Yes I did read your entire post and saw the part about metal inlayed into wood. That's what I recommended you start with.
It's important to not take on too much at once. Otherwise a project stops being fun. Build on experience. Generally, fabricating from metal is harder than it looks. It depends, though. With easy to work material usually much can be done with simple tools. I've made complex brackets with multi angle bends out of mild steel by using a vise, a brass hammer, an electric drill and a file. And paint.
Softer, easy to work materials like brass and aluminum are the place to start. If you're working with aluminum it's soft enough that careful hand work can often bring a high level of precision. A file used carefully can, with careful technique, make perfect outside radii. By using a technique called draw filing it can produce very flat surfaces. Silicon carbide paper on a really flat piece of plate can also be used to make very flat and true surfaces. Wrapped around a piece of stock it can smooth and bring to size complex shapes.
It takes patience and a certain knack. But it allows you to compensate for machine limitations like not enough precision or a lack of rigidity, and sometimes for not having a machine. If you do much hand work you will be astonished at how precise you can become. A lot of guys hate it because they want to go fast, but I enjoyed it. One place I worked, because of my ability to do precise hand work (often to rework a bad part) I got the nickname "Deadeye". It was nice to have a non-insulting nickname for once.
Precision layout, where dimensions are scribed onto the workpiece, will help big time. Work to the line and you will be close. Holes to be drilled can be center punched on the layout and a good drill press will give the needed precision. If you're careful enough and good enough, even a hand electric drill can be used for through holes.
Weld if you want, but you should be able to avoid it if you'd rather not. Choose your alloy carefully, as many don't weld while others are pretty easy with tig or mig. There's a reason 6061 is used so extensively. It's good all around. The heat of welding does anneal it though, so it will lose strength near welds. It will recover some of its former strength and hardness with time. 7200 is nice to weld, because it recovers its strength after welding.
About obtaining material: many metal distributors will sell to the public. They often have odds and ends, short pieces etc. from fab jobs. They usually sell it by the pound, not units like length or area.