Metal vs Plastic Film Tank?

[L Gebhardt]

I have 3 CombiPlan tanks, of varying age, which I've used for 14 years now, and they do not leak when I use them, with full and vigorous inversion agitation... Maybe yours is broken?

I have two of them. They both leak with either lid. If I am very careful to push the cap completely down the leaks can be kept to a minimum, but it's rare that I get a leak free run. I think it was better when the tanks were new.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

For many years I used Paterson tanks and a brand of plastic reels that I can't remember, but the slot where the film enters the reel spans the entire width of 35mm film, edge to edge, making it super easy to load. The trouble for me was that Minnesota gets very humid in the summer, to the point that the reels get moist enough that the film sticks and screws up the whole film loading process.

Then I decided to try stainless steel and invested in Hewes stainless steel reels. Both 120 film and 35mm film I was able to load on the first attempt without any issues whatsoever. For humid environments you can not beat stainless steel reels, and among stainless steel reels you can't buy anything better than Hewes.
If you live in an area where it's not that humid, or if you're lucky to have a darkroom that isn't very humid in the summer, either one should work just fine for you.

The stainless steel tank can have a metal lid or a plastic lid, and I have a comment regarding the plastic lids that could be a problem. I developed some C41 film over the weekend, at 102*F, and the warm temperature caused the plastic in the lid to expand enough that each agitation caused a significant leak. The blix was the worst because it was in for 6m30s. With four inversions every 30s I spilled a lot of blix in the water bath in which I kept the tank.
With b&w chemistry that has been much less of an issue. Metal lids would not be that inconsistent in behavior, but it's hard to find a metal lid that is perfectly tight too.

No system is perfect. I would love to have a really strong plastic tank, with screw-on lid and made for stainless steel reels. That would be ideal. Dream on.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Push on the end of the film. This will open the film's spiral a bit allowing 2 or 3 inches more to be loaded on the reel. The backing of the film will now contact the reel and not the emulsion.

I've noticed this also.

My method is to cut off more film at the leader before I load it on the reel. There is always about an inch of space left after the full 36 frame roll has been loaded. I've never run out of room. Strange... Maybe Hewes reels are better designed?

 

[Truzi]

Most pros and cons have been covered. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have both.

I have come to prefer the stainless myself, and now find it easier than plastic; but I still have the plastic. The plastic reels are adjustable which is good in case I find an odd format (like 127) that I don't have a steel reel for, or don't have enough steel reels for to do one run. It's also good to have a backup.

I had loaned the plastic tanks and reels to someone learning to develop, so that is a good thing too. The plastic reels were easier for him to learn on.

 

[one90guy]

I used SS years ago in school, returned a couple of years ago with my daughter who uses Paterson, so am comfortable with them. In fact have another 2 roll tank coming.

David

 

[RedSun]

This is great discussion. I learnt a lot more. I'll probably keep at least one each, just for casual use. Then I'll put on my Jobo if I get on any trip or any LF work.... Thanks.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

For many years I used Paterson tanks and a brand of plastic reels that I can't remember, but the slot where the film enters the reel spans the entire width of 35mm film, edge to edge, making it super easy to load. The trouble for me was that Minnesota gets very humid in the summer, to the point that the reels get moist enough that the film sticks and screws up the whole film loading process.

Then I decided to try stainless steel and invested in Hewes stainless steel reels. Both 120 film and 35mm film I was able to load on the first attempt without any issues whatsoever. For humid environments you can not beat stainless steel reels, and among stainless steel reels you can't buy anything better than Hewes.
If you live in an area where it's not that humid, or if you're lucky to have a darkroom that isn't very humid in the summer, either one should work just fine for you.

The stainless steel tank can have a metal lid or a plastic lid, and I have a comment regarding the plastic lids that could be a problem. I developed some C41 film over the weekend, at 102*F, and the warm temperature caused the plastic in the lid to expand enough that each agitation caused a significant leak. The blix was the worst because it was in for 6m30s. With four inversions every 30s I spilled a lot of blix in the water bath in which I kept the tank.
With b&w chemistry that has been much less of an issue. Metal lids would not be that inconsistent in behavior, but it's hard to find a metal lid that is perfectly tight too.

No system is perfect. I would love to have a really strong plastic tank, with screw-on lid and made for stainless steel reels. That would be ideal. Dream on.

Ditto what Thomas said. The absolute best stainless reels are the Hewes. for both 35mm and 120. I'll keep on using the stainless for doing b/w, but now that I'm kitted out with a 2500 series drum and the appropriate reels for my Jobo, I'll use that for C41 just for the simplicity of the temperature control, if nothing else. I've found the stainless reels very easy to load, and I also appreciate the lower chemical volumes required to mix developers and fixers for b/w. My tanks need a hair less than a full liter, which makes doing the chemistry math very easy.

 

[AgX]

Regarding Jobo plastic reels, keep in mind that there are two versions around:


(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[MattKing]

FWIW, the steel reels I like best for 35mm are the no-name type that don't have a clip, but have instead a wire "C" that you crimp the end of the film into.
As others have said, YMMV.

 

[Tom1956]

To the best of my knowledge, the Apollo film was done in Honeywell Nikor tanks and reels. Right off the top of the head, was there anything that was not the best, that was used in the Apollo program?

 

[Roger Cole]

Nikor tanks were well made, no doubt. That doesn't mean that others aren't just as good though. I don't think Jobo existed then anyway, did it?

 

[zanxion72]

One more thing to note about the steel tanks is that infrared films are to be developed in metal tanks.

 

[AgX]

Nikor tanks were well made, no doubt. That doesn't mean that others aren't just as good though. I don't think Jobo existed then anyway, did it?

Jobo was founded 1923.

 

[Roger Cole]

Jobo was founded 1923.

Ok, but did they make their plastic tanks and reels?

They may have, I don't know. But the fact the Apollo film was developed in steel doesn't mean plastic is inferior.

 

[Ronald Moravec]

To the best of my knowledge, the Apollo film was done in Honeywell Nikor tanks and reels. Right off the top of the head, was there anything that was not the best, that was used in the Apollo program?

Bought my first Nikor early 60`s, 50+ years back. Works as good as new

Bought a bunch of ss with black plastic caps because I wanted the bottom for a 6 step E6, 45 min in the dark. One day I used one for daylite and when I turned on the lights, the "economy " plastic top had split open fogging considerable film . You get what you pay for.

Jobo is good. Super system 4 Patterson is fool proof. NEVER GET WETTING AGENT OR COLOR STABILIZER ON A PLASTIC REEL. It does not wash off and the reel gets sticky making loading difficult/impossible. Hang film and use a spray bottle.

Nikor reels, real official ones, are better than Hewes. Only avail used and hard to identify from some imitations. When you load one, you will see the difference. I can not see what is different, but it is there.

 

[Neal]

Tank for IR Film

One more thing to note about the steel tanks is that infrared films are to be developed in metal tanks.

I use plastic tanks for IR film. Never an issue.

Neal Wydra

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Bought my first Nikor early 60`s, 50+ years back. Works as good as new

Bought a bunch of ss with black plastic caps because I wanted the bottom for a 6 step E6, 45 min in the dark. One day I used one for daylite and when I turned on the lights, the "economy " plastic top had split open fogging considerable film . You get what you pay for.

Jobo is good. Super system 4 Patterson is fool proof. NEVER GET WETTING AGENT OR COLOR STABILIZER ON A PLASTIC REEL. It does not wash off and the reel gets sticky making loading difficult/impossible. Hang film and use a spray bottle.

Nikor reels, real official ones, are better than Hewes. Only avail used and hard to identify from some imitations. When you load one, you will see the difference. I can not see what is different, but it is there.

For what it's worth, I have used both Nikor and Hewes, and much prefer Hewes. The 35mm practically load themselves.

Agree with the rest. The plastic caps for metal tanks are not great, except I've never managed to break one.
Paterson tanks are very reliable, for sure. (I personally dislike using them, but that doesn't make them bad).

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

One more thing to note about the steel tanks is that infrared films are to be developed in metal tanks.

There is SO MUCH misinformation out there about infrared. There is a book by an otherwise reputable photographer that talks about things like hand-coloring and shooting IR. The chapter on IR states that you have to use a separate tank and reels for only IR because the IR radiation will contaminate the tank. You can smell the horseshit on that one a mile away, but you get the idea. It's up there with thinking that traditional b/w IR film is good for night photography, or that it will photograph heat rather than light, therefore it is extremely heat-sensitive.

 

[AgX]

One more thing to note about the steel tanks is that infrared films are to be developed in metal tanks.

There is/was a changing bag around that is not IR-proof.