I have seen the flashes of light when peeling off tape at the end of the roll. The resultant fogging, however, was confined to the actual area where the tape was. Now I just cut through the end of the film anyway, as it is easier and faster.
Medium format tips?
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From what I've seen, static discharge is a far higher risk of effecting film than the small emissions from peeling tape. [That said, you probably don't want to go sticking and peeling tape over and over again right above your film, and the risk is obviously more of an issue with higher speed films.]
I got bored one evening last summer and rigged up an experiment to try and see if I could capture Triboluminescence (tape/stress 'glow' emissions) on a roll of film, and was only able to get anything from using very large packing tape held close to the film and repeatedly peeled. [Modern ISO-400 Tri-X I believe]
If you're the sort to fidget around a lot, and often shock yourself, then you'll want to take more care to address the risk of static.
I got bored one evening last summer and rigged up an experiment to try and see if I could capture Triboluminescence (tape/stress 'glow' emissions) on a roll of film, and was only able to get anything from using very large packing tape held close to the film and repeatedly peeled. [Modern ISO-400 Tri-X I believe]
If you're the sort to fidget around a lot, and often shock yourself, then you'll want to take more care to address the risk of static.
Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
I've seen the tiny flash of light while removing the tape. The very tiny increase of density was resigned to where the tape was, and no where else on the film. I continue to remove the take by hand. Don't trust myself with scissors in the dark!
I've shot the RB for years, and often shot fashion handheld with the 180mm lens and the L-grip - and the RZ is lighter than the RB. Tripods are necessary for many shots, but I always enjoyed shooting handheld.
One good tip for ya - if you're on a budget, you can use RB lenses on the RZ (but not the other way around). Some RB lenses are really affordable these days.
One good tip for ya - if you're on a budget, you can use RB lenses on the RZ (but not the other way around). Some RB lenses are really affordable these days.
MattKing
Moderator
Thank you for the correct word (Triboluminescence). If you search on it here on Photrio, you get all sorts of good stuff.
Interesting. I was not aware of this phenomenon at all. Does it only happen when the tape is peeled off the film rather than from the backing paper? I routinely do the latter, then fold the tape back over the end of the film before either processing it like that or cutting off the end section of film/tape before processing. I have never seen any noticeable difference in the film, so I assume only peeling the tape from the film causes it?
I use my RZ with and without a tripod. If I'm just out for a walk I'll carry the body, WLF, 110mm lens, and a Gossin Luna Pro F, all in a Tamrac Pro 8 shoulder bag. I use the strap to balance the body against my chest and it's fine for anything above 1/60 with 400-speed film and 1/125 with 100-speed. Now, if I'm going to a particular location like the coastline. I'll bring my backpack with all of the above plus 2 extra backs, A/E Prism, filters, tripod, etc. The RZ is heavy, but it's not just a studio camera. It's doable. If I'm going to a parade, concert, walking the streets around town, etc. I'll use my 35mm. If I'm able to take my time and not be interrupted by those asking me "what is that thing?" I'll bring the RZ every time. It's simple to use and the negatives are HUGE 
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I remember our high school photo teacher showing us the dull static flash when pulling the tape away from the film and paper.
Also recall kids crushing wintergreen Certs breath mints between our teeth and getting a similar flash.
HS photo class in the early 70's was a lot of fun.
Also recall kids crushing wintergreen Certs breath mints between our teeth and getting a similar flash.
HS photo class in the early 70's was a lot of fun.
Shooting medium format is very similar to shooting 35mm. An RZ is easy to load and not that much different than a 35mm camera. It's still roll film, just not in a cartridge. The RZ is a lot larger and heavier than a 35mm camera. I highly recommend the Mamiya "L" grip. It makes the RZ so much easier to shoot hand held in my opinion. I also highly recommend the 110mm. It's a peach of a lens.
In spite of carefully sealing the tape on exposed rolls, I had light creep in and darken some of the film rebate, so I now store the exposed film in these in black to prevent that.
https://www.freestylephoto.biz/1120...120-Film-Hard-Case-Black-Holds-5-Rolls-of-120
https://www.freestylephoto.biz/1120...120-Film-Hard-Case-Black-Holds-5-Rolls-of-120
The suggestion to read the manual is a good one. There are lots of safety locks. Half the time I go to fire the shutter, it won't fire... because I've forgotten to cock the shutter, to remove the dark slide, to advance the film, to unlock the shutter release, or something.
These things are good, though. I've read lots of stories of unintentional double exposures because the earlier RBs did not have the lock out for the film advance.
These things are good, though. I've read lots of stories of unintentional double exposures because the earlier RBs did not have the lock out for the film advance.
Sometimes my Bronica ETRS lets me take photos with the darkslide in, of course I only realise this when I get to the 13th frame
Recognize when it's better to use medium format or 35mm, depending on where and what you are shooting. Medium format typically provides much better image quality due to the larger negative, especially when making prints, the larger the prints the better. And your RB67 is great if you anticipate wanting to shoot different films (e.g., color, b&w) without finishing rolls. 35mm is better in situations where weight of the equipment can be a factor (hiking, etc.), less frequent roll changeouts are an advantage, and longer telephoto shots are anticipated.
Good idea! Besides cheap insurance, it also keeps all your exposed rolls together.
Yes I have a couple of those. Very useful. However just buy the original ones on ebay for about $5, rather than those JCH branded ones for triple the price.
No probs.
The 10-roll version is a new one to me. Still, it would be a bit too deep to fit properly in the front pouches of my camera bag where I normally keep the 5-roll holders.
There is also this one:
https://www.catlabs.info/product/film-box
https://www.catlabs.info/product/film-box
I find this case from MindShift, meant for a GoPro, is quite handy while traveling. It holds 8 rolls of film boxed or not.
Just use m&m mini containers like I do. The king size ones hold two rolls. Plus it gives you an excuse to buy candy.
You can leave a roll of scotch tape in your photo bag in case you inadvertently tear off a sealing tape. (Happened to me a couple times when I needed to hectically change rolls)
I usually have a few 4" lengths of painter's blue masking tape stuck on my film magazine cases for that purpose. A couple of rubber bands in the camera bag can come in handy, too.
Welcome to the wonderful world of RZ owners. It really isn't that scary. I hope you are enjoying the RZ. I find I can use it handheld with the 110mm lens. With my other lenses, I use a tripod. For landscapes, seascapes I find having the AE Prism Finder helpful, but a good light meter works fine with some practice. I use the Luna Pro F when I'm out for a walk without the tripod and just the 110mm lens, WLF, and one film back. If I'm shooting with soft light, shade, or non-blaring lighting conditions I'll meter once and just make adjustments from there. That way I'm not stopping after every shot to re-meter. This usually works well when I'm walking in the woods or it's a cloudy day. But I also only use B&W film so it may not be the best method with color film. Have Fun!!!
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