Medium Format Redux...Again

[GLS]

Thanks GLS! That's good to know. I shot a Contax 139 with Zeiss lenses for many years. I was surprised that my Blad's CF lens seemed a little stiff. Again, it wasn't bad but not what I was used to with my 35mm Zeiss lenses.

Well when you think about it, there's more metal and glass to move with the Hassy lenses compared with their 35mm equivalents. I find the stiffer feel and longer focus throw of the Hassy lenses reassuring and more precise when compared with some others; the later Pentax 6x7 lenses for e.g. feel a bit too loose and easy to move to me. Having said all that, of course there are variances with specific lens copies too; I also have three Zeiss ZF.2 lenses for my Nikon DSLR, and one of them (the Distagon 2/35) is noticeably stiffer than the others.

 

[apoglass]

... No one mentioned a Rollei ... Are there super bright focus screens available for those?

Notes/comments about a bright focus Rolleiflex screen compiled from various websites:
Bill Maxwell (Maxwell Precision Optics, Decatur, Georgia) focussing screen #1 with a grid, split image and a micro prism ring, edge to edge brightness even in low light - amazing from full sun until well after sunset - a huge difference, very bright and "snaps" into focus nicely, the best money can buy screen, quite impressive, a pleasure, highly recommended, does indeed transform the camera, blows away any other screen I have ever seen on a Rollei, can now see to focus in even low light – the screen maintains a high level of contrast that is absent in most bright screens – you will want to use your Rollei more with the Maxwell screen in it. (CAUTION: Maxwell screen is fragile. No lens cloth of any kind. Don't expose to excessive heat.) Cost is $225 installed and calibrated by Harry Fleenor, while also adjusting the focus of both the taking lens and the viewfinder.

 

[apoglass]

I prefer the screen with vertical and horizontal lines so that I can quickly line up horizons and verticals.

The previously mentioned Acute Matte D microprism/split image 42215 does not have vertical and horizontal grid lines, but the following Hasselblad screens which are variations of the 42215 do:
Acute Matte D split w/ Grid lines 42217
Acute Matte D w/ grid and split image with metering circle for 203FE 42219
But the 42217 and 42219 screens with grid lines in addition to focusing aids are likely going to be hard to find and pricey.

 

[GLS]

I have the 42217 in my 501CM. The grid lines are very useful for composing.

 

[ReginaldSMith]

After reading the manuals a few more times (they aren't very good, frankly), I was confident enough to play with the camera sans film to understand the moveable parts. I noticed that the focus ring rotation is 270 degrees, which was like turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock in an old 50's Chevy. It's rather stiff, and that metal gear-tooth ring is not all that cozy feeling. That much rotation implies you have to set the ring to an approximate subject distance before even attempting to focus with the eye. Ok, that's fine. I was inside, so lighting wasn't like daylight. I was unable to determine sharp focus within about 20 degrees of rotation. Then I snapped up the magnifier, and was able to get within say, a few degrees of rotation, which would probably be "good enough" most of the time.

Ergo, I certainly do need a different focusing system. I just made an offer on a PM5. I'm still hunting down the screen. Now there's a new wrinkle: Grid lines! LOL I can see my journey here is going to have a few twists!

BTW, what is the sequence of events between rear curtain, mirror, aperture, lens shutter when the shutter release is pressed? There seemed to be some vague caution about releasing your finger from the button "too soon?"

I'm hoping for my Ernst Wildi book to arrive soon. Those manuals are truly SPARSE!

 

[film_man]

About the rear curtains, these are only open while you press the shutter button. So on low shutter speeds (eg 1s) you can fire the shutter, take your finger off immediately and then the shutter will keep going but the rear curtain will close. So basically make a habit of keeping your finger there till you hear the shutter click close. Anything below 1/8 is prone to this if you're quick with your fingers. I never understood this retarded mechanism...I mean I can see why (saves them another spring and cocking mechanism) but come on...

 

[film_man]

Oh the actions are something like this
1. hit button
2. shutter closes on the lens
3. doors open + mirror up in the body
4. aperture stops down on the lens
5. shutter opens
6. shutter closes

At this point with your finger still on the shutter the barn doors are open but the other two light openings are closed (WLF blocked by mirror, lens blocked by shutter). The doors will then close when you take your finger off. Then you advance the winder which will cock the shutter (open), reset aperture, advance the film and move the mirror down. So now the barn doors keep the film safe from light.

3 and 4 happen sort of together but they must be after 2 and before 5 otherwise you end up with light leaks or incorrect exposure.

BTW the above I sort of worked out myself, so maybe I'm wrong but I just don't see how else it would work.

 

[film_man]

Final point, the lens focus stiffness. They are stiff but get stiffer over time, maybe a service (ie new lubricants) will help it. You can also buy a quick focus handle which helps with the cheese grater metal focus ring.

 

[ReginaldSMith]

FOCUS HANDLE! Yowza, that looks like a nice feature.

 

[BrianShaw]

FOCUS HANDLE! Yowza, that looks like a nice feature.

Yes, but it only works on the C lenses. If you have a more modern lens then the focus handle option could be a disappointment. BTW, I've never checked to see if one could be retrofit to the later lenses... hopefully someone has and will tell.

 

[BrianShaw]

BTW, the way you are talking you'd better plan on a big camera bag.. bigger than you currently have or currently believe you need. I "right sized" my camera bag (with little extra margin) because I thought I knew what I needed or would ever want or could afford. Ends up I was being a bit too much of a minimalist and now my bag is too small... and I'm too lazy/thrifty/cheap to buy a bigger bag... and if I did I might be in the process of being too feeble to actually carry it long enough or far enough.

 

[ReginaldSMith]

My lens is the chrome 80mm f/2.8 planar. Is that compatible with the focus handle? Anyone know? (nothing urgent here, just learning....)

 

[film_man]

Chrome lenses are the (very) old ones so yes.

 

[Arthurwg]

I suggest a Rolleiflex, preferably a 2.8F. This camera is very light and easy to use. Get a Maxwell bright screen, which will make focusing very easy.

 

[Sirius Glass]

After reading the manuals a few more times (they aren't very good, frankly), I was confident enough to play with the camera sans film to understand the moveable parts. I noticed that the focus ring rotation is 270 degrees, which was like turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock in an old 50's Chevy. It's rather stiff, and that metal gear-tooth ring is not all that cozy feeling. That much rotation implies you have to set the ring to an approximate subject distance before even attempting to focus with the eye. Ok, that's fine. I was inside, so lighting wasn't like daylight. I was unable to determine sharp focus within about 20 degrees of rotation. Then I snapped up the magnifier, and was able to get within say, a few degrees of rotation, which would probably be "good enough" most of the time.

Ergo, I certainly do need a different focusing system. I just made an offer on a PM5. I'm still hunting down the screen. Now there's a new wrinkle: Grid lines! LOL I can see my journey here is going to have a few twists!

BTW, what is the sequence of events between rear curtain, mirror, aperture, lens shutter when the shutter release is pressed? There seemed to be some vague caution about releasing your finger from the button "too soon?"

I'm hoping for my Ernst Wildi book to arrive soon. Those manuals are truly SPARSE!

I move the ring back and forth quickly once I get the focus in range, then I can easily find the focus point.

 

[TheTrailTog]

I skimmed through most of this thread (now 115 posts deep) and I apologize if I missed this, but have you thought about adding a brightscreen or a split focus screen to make focusing easier?

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-175.html

 

[ReginaldSMith]

I skimmed through most of this thread (now 115 posts deep) and I apologize if I missed this, but have you thought about adding a brightscreen or a split focus screen to make focusing easier?

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-175.html

Yes, absolutely. I was however, a bit shocked at how spendy they are. So, while I was waiting fore the camera, I was checking into alternative screens that mighrt be a bit less money. This morning, I bought a PM5 prism, which will be here in a few days. Now I am on the hunt for a screen. Thanks!

 

[TheTrailTog]

Yes, absolutely. I was however, a bit shocked at how spendy they are. So, while I was waiting fore the camera, I was checking into alternative screens that mighrt be a bit less money. This morning, I bought a PM5 prism, which will be here in a few days. Now I am on the hunt for a screen. Thanks!

Rick's seem to be very reasonable when compared to a Beattie or Maxwell. I'll be ordering one for my Bronica S2a in the next week or so, just need to decide if I want the bright or the split. I've been reading great things about them and at only $80 for the bright and $50 for the split, they seem like a great deal.

 

[ReginaldSMith]

Sent some questions to Rick. .Waiting to hear back.----THANKS>

 

[TheTrailTog]

Keep me posted

 

[apoglass]

... I just made an offer on a PM5. I'm still hunting down the screen. ...

Don't forget the Hasselblad 2x flip up prism viewfinder eyepiece magnifier 42459 for the PM5 to get extra help in being able to see clearly what is in focus.

 

[apoglass]

... I'm still hunting down the screen. ...

A caution when purchasing a Hasselblad focusing screen, is to be sure to look carefully at what you are buying, because Hasselblad focusing screens are not labelled with their product number, and are often misidentified. For example, if the focusing screen does not have two notches in the metal border (indicating that it is an Acute-Matte D screen), or does not have a central split prism, it is NOT a Hasselblad 42215. (The reason is that when someone buys a replacement focusing screen, they remove their existing screen from the camera, put the new screen into the camera, and then put the old screen in the box that the new screen came in for storage. Then years later someone finds the old screen and mistakenly sells it using the description on the box. But the 42215 on the box refers to the screen in the camera, not the old focusing screen being stored in the 42215 box.)

Additional notes/comments found on various websites, regarding the fact that modern focusing screens are often made of easy to damage soft plastic:

WARNING: NEVER WET CLEAN Brightscreen or Hasselblad Acute-Matte focusing screens as liquid ruins them. Best way to clean the screen is don't. Even a soft brush will leave scratches. If you must, try a squeeze-bulb blower.
(This warning likely also applies to Maxwell Rolleiflex screens.)

My guess is that a soft brush is not itself the cause of damage, but that hard grit or dust particles on the brush or pushed around on the surface of the focusing screen by the brush is the cause of scratches that are left after ill advised cleaning attempts.

Anyone would be very upset if they ruined a focus screen costing hundreds of dollars to replace. Do any of you have experience with damaging plastic focusing screens by attempting to clean them, or have advice as to how best to clean a plastic focusing screen if it becomes dirty, and is not successfully cleaned using a squeeze-bulb blower?

 

[GLS]

Anyone would be very upset if they ruined a focus screen costing hundreds of dollars to replace. Do any of you have experience with damaging plastic focusing screens by attempting to clean them, or have advice as to how best to clean a plastic focusing screen if it becomes dirty, and is not successfully cleaned using a squeeze-bulb blower?

I have used a clean, high quality microfibre cloth to very gently clean mine in the past. Didn't notice any damage afterwards, but obviously it's something I do only very sparingly. Most bits of dirt/etc can be blown off with a rocket blower, as you say.

 

[btaylor]

Regarding the Rick Oleson screen, I just got one for my Rolleiflex and installed it. I am very pleased with the brightness and ease of focusing with the microprism version— quite the bargain I think.

 

[Sirius Glass]

A caution when purchasing a Hasselblad focusing screen, is to be sure to look carefully at what you are buying, because Hasselblad focusing screens are not labelled with their product number, and are often misidentified. For example, if the focusing screen does not have two notches in the metal border (indicating that it is an Acute-Matte D screen), or does not have a central split prism, it is NOT a Hasselblad 42215. (The reason is that when someone buys a replacement focusing screen, they remove their existing screen from the camera, put the new screen into the camera, and then put the old screen in the box that the new screen came in for storage. Then years later someone finds the old screen and mistakenly sells it using the description on the box. But the 42215 on the box refers to the screen in the camera, not the old focusing screen being stored in the 42215 box.)

Additional notes/comments found on various websites, regarding the fact that modern focusing screens are often made of easy to damage soft plastic:

WARNING: NEVER WET CLEAN Brightscreen or Hasselblad Acute-Matte focusing screens as liquid ruins them. Best way to clean the screen is don't. Even a soft brush will leave scratches. If you must, try a squeeze-bulb blower.
(This warning likely also applies to Maxwell Rolleiflex screens.)

My guess is that a soft brush is not itself the cause of damage, but that hard grit or dust particles on the brush or pushed around on the surface of the focusing screen by the brush is the cause of scratches that are left after ill advised cleaning attempts.

Anyone would be very upset if they ruined a focus screen costing hundreds of dollars to replace. Do any of you have experience with damaging plastic focusing screens by attempting to clean them, or have advice as to how best to clean a plastic focusing screen if it becomes dirty, and is not successfully cleaned using a squeeze-bulb blower?

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