Mechanical jewel, which one? Nikon F2, F, FM2 etc or No Nikon?

[CGW]

Thats why F2's are bringing so much more money than Fs.

No battery issues.

Not to mention the early Fs being 50+ years old.

 

[2F/2F]

The battery issue (which is actually a blessing in disguise, IMHO) is easy to solve. 1) Take the batteries out and take them to a hazardous waste disposal center. 2) Expose using more accurate methods than an in-camera reflected meter. 3) As you print your negatives, thank yourself for doing yourself a huge favor.

I have done the 475-in-a-washer battery mod just as backup, since it is so easy and cheap. But the times I have actually flipped the meters on and used them can probably be counted from memory.

Wein Cells are a joke. They are slightly-modified 10 cent hearing aid batteries in a fancy package, marked up several thousand percent.

 

[fstop]

Not to mention the early Fs being 50+ years old.

whats wrong with being 50+ years old? I'm 50+... oh I see your point.

 

[Vilk]

F2

 

[cmo]

whats wrong with being 50+ years old? I'm 50+... oh I see your point.

How are your light seals? I think I need a CLA soon

BTW, especially the more professional cameras built between the mid 50s and the mid 80s can be serviced in most cases. The more electronics the more trouble, and finding a repair shop ready to service the viscus of more modern cameras can be impossible.

 

[alexfoto]

F2

 

[CGW]

How are your light seals? I think I need a CLA soon

BTW, especially the more professional cameras built between the mid 50s and the mid 80s can be serviced in most cases. The more electronics the more trouble, and finding a repair shop ready to service the viscus of more modern cameras can be impossible.

Repair resources for any film camera are getting scarce. Puzzled why people believe there's an abundance of tech savvy for mechanical camera repair--if anything, the opposite is true.

 

[erikg]

Funny how the conversation turns from looking for a mechanical beast of a camera that is super reliable and can be used as a hammer to considering part options and locating a good repair shop.
Like a buying a vintage car you'll want to know if there is a good mechanic nearby before you commit.
Reliability may be elusive but it can be more than worth it if you enjoy a certain "driving" experience. At least that is what I tell my wife.

 

[CGW]

Funny how the conversation turns from looking for a mechanical beast of a camera that is super reliable and can be used as a hammer to considering part options and locating a good repair shop.
Like a buying a vintage car you'll want to know if there is a good mechanic nearby before you commit.
Reliability may be elusive but it can be more than worth it if you enjoy a certain "driving" experience. At least that is what I tell my wife.

I recall part of that "driving experience" was being on first name terms with every tow truck driver on my end of town. Too many around here tout oldies as inherently superior with no discussion of the huge PITA they can be when they break. Bizarre.

 

[erikg]

Human nature. People want things for all sorts of reasons that they don't like to admit, sometimes not even to themselves. Practicality gets trotted out, legendary build etc. Nothing really practical about a non-functioning meter or a back that comes off or uneven frame spacing or whatever. Can be fun though. This coming from a guy who shoots with Graflex reflexes. I know PITA.

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

I think people are fixated on the situation in their own geographical niches.

I've never had a problem getting any of my cameras CLA'd or repaired (even fairly recently). Usually it was more a matter of which repairperson to choose.

The fact is that mechanical cameras rarely need spare parts, other than the odd piece of foam or spring, which are no problem at all to adapt to different models.
It's electronic cameras with their proprietary modules which are 100% dependent on original spare parts.

Again, some of these postings bringing up all these terrible "problems" older cameras have don't fit with my own real life experience at all.
YMMV...

 

[abate cruento]

a pentax mx! full mechanical, lr44 battery only for the light meter, a huge choice for lenses (even in m42 with the right adapter)

 

[cmo]

Repair resources for any film camera are getting scarce. Puzzled why people believe there's an abundance of tech savvy for mechanical camera repair--if anything, the opposite is true.

For some. Finding a mechanic for a Contarex gets a bit difficult, but that's due to a lack of spare parts. Finding a mechanic is simple. Finding a good mechanic is not too difficult. Finding a mechanic who is ready to repair a camera for a price below the market value of many cameras is difficult, but that's not the problem of a lack of mechanics. Many popular cameras like the Canon A1, AE-1 etc., many Minoltas and Pentaxes like the ME/MX, many Olympus OM cameras and many more are simply too cheap to get a repair. I can buy a working, serviced Canon A1 for 20-50 Euros, and that often includes 1-2 lenses. What if it fails? Repairing it is a waste of money, most people say. There is not a lack of mechanics, there is a lack of demand for time-consuming and cost-intensive repairs.

For cameras with a higher market value like Nikons, Leicas and Rolleiflex cameras I can choose from a long list of repair shops. Some are better, some are not so good, and I think they will survive because people are ready to pay an acceptable price for a Leica M CLA or similar jobs.

 

[cmo]

BTW, I had a wonderful afternoon with my new toy, a Nikon F, made in 1962. I was out in the sun with that camera and a 50mm lens. I shot two rolls, and now the developed negatives are on my desk. The camera works just fine - not bad for such an old camera that was not serviced for decades; even the light meter works. I must admit I was lucky the light seals still keep the light out. I went to an electronics shop and purchased a battery for my other new toy, a Nikkormat EL. The light seals are finished, so I bought some black gaffer tape and "sealed" the camera back. The lightmeter works like a charm, the third roll of film is fine, too. And then there was a fourth roll in a Leica M3 I just captured in a household clearance. The long shutter times are too long, the rest just works. It was in a closet for 15 years.

The reason for this little story:

+1 for the recommendation of a Nikon F/F2/Nikkormat. Or get a Leica M.

 

[fstop]

Glad to see you got the F out of the closet.

 

[elcabezagrande]

Yashica TL Electro X. There. I said it.

 

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

Leica , it doesnt matter whatever the model or how old it is

 

[2F/2F]

I have found that the individual camera design in question matters more than whether or not it is of mechanical or electronic design. I've had troublesome cameras and completely trouble-free cameras of all types. For instance, nothing but trouble with Canon FD cameras (though they are probably my favorite cameras to use when they are working), but no trouble at all from Nikon Fs. Trouble with an AE-1 and Minolta electronic cameras, but no trouble from my Nikon electronic camera. Trouble with my Leica IIIc (1950's), but no trouble with my Leica IIIa (1930's). The history of the individual camera in question is also very important IMO.

I also don't assign any special magic properties to mechanical cameras. But I do prefer the way they are designed and feel in the hand, for the most part.

 

[ziggy7]

Look at Cameraquest

Stephen Gandy has written a fine article discussing the pros & cons of the Nikon SLR's and posted it on his Cameraquest site.

 

[fstop]

WTF are you a gandy shill? Voightlander and hes a dealer... how about a link?

 

[lxdude]

Glad to see you got the F out of the closet.

 

[fstop]

Go on vacation and get the F outa town.Take some Fn pictures.

 

[BradleyK]

Although I own and use an assortment of Nikons (2-F2 bodies (DE1 variety), an F2A, 2- F2ASs, and 1 each of the F3HP, F4s and F5) my hands-down favorite remains the F2AS (purchased 17 May 1979 and used continuously since). These particular babies have been used in environments ranging from New Orleans (where I lived for four years) to the Columbia Icefields, Jasper National Park (temperature/humidity range of 42C/98% to - 30/40%) without failure, EVER! My only expense for these bodies has been a CLA (done about 6? years ago. My trust in them is such that I shot my very last rolls of PKR and KR with them (sort of a coming full circle, if you will) on 25 December 2010. Needless to say, the F2 gets my unqualified recommendation, something I am very, very hesitant to give for anything, anywhere, EVER!

 

[cmo]

Glad to see you got the F out of the closet.

F?

Word.

 

[gws68]

I have the F3 (two of them) and an F5, and I love the F3 if only for the feeling of the frame advance lever. It's so silky smooth. But I am looking at a F2 Titan with the DP-12 prism in new condition. For my money, the F2 could probably go anywhere and work well -- from -30 below zero to outer space. It's built that well. The F3 is great, but more electronics and perhaps a little more fragile long term. The F2 is a tank that could literally work forever.