Maybe Off Developer ?

[polyglot]

Can you take a crappy digital photo of the two negs side-by-side and post it so we can see what they look like?

 

[mryoda]

Scanned in.
The Ilford here looks terrible to me, it doesn't look like this
in front of me.
But it works fine when you print ?

 

[mryoda]

By jove i think i got it lol
Here are a couple shots made with my Kentmere Film ISO 100
The same Negative as i was complaining about above.
Thanks for all the advice and making a test shot before hand is always the way to go.
I finaly landed on a combination of a 2 sec enlarger exposure at f11 and i spose
i could have done a 4-5 sec exposure at f16
Both images were in the developer for a full 60 secs.


img031


img030

 

[Nige]

that middle row of negs could possibly be un/under fixed.

 

[polyglot]

that middle row of negs could possibly be un/under fixed.

More probably than possibly, IMHO. Get that roll into some fresh fixer as soon as you can for a couple of minutes then re-wash it. Or it could be slightly fogged but I think that a little less likely.

Your K100 negs look over-developed though that could be an artefact of the scan. There shouldn't really be such a dramatic difference in density between the bright & dark parts. As you can see, they print OK, but it can be difficult to retain both shadow and highlight detail. Try developing the film for about 10% less time next time and be very careful with your temperature control.

The HP5 shots in the first row are all quite overexposed except for the first one but they'll print OK. It explains why you were initially able to get a print from these but not from the K100 negs; the HP5 ones are so much denser and let less light through in the enlarger.

2s at f/11 is very fast; I would definitely suggest putting an ND filter of at least 3 stops in your filter drawer and considering using f/16 on the enlarger lens. Otherwise, you will have almost no control over the image density and certainly no ability to do dodging and burning. You want exposures around the 10-30s mark in order to get enough exposure control and have time to dodge/burn. f/16 will soften the appearance of the grain slightly but you won't suffer a problematic loss of resolution.

 

[mryoda]

Thanks Polyglot, thats some good advice
I have fixed and washed the negs again, there drying now.
When i finish my next roll i will put your advice into play,
i may post a couple more shots when that roll is developed
Hopefully if i can get the dev of the film correct, i will get some time on the enlarger
and not have to mess about this much

This is all in aid of my soon to have a child, daughter, so sometime in the next 3 months i have
to get this right
Thanks again...

 

[polyglot]

Did the refixed roll get a bit clearer? See in the edges where it was all dark originally; it shouldn't look like that. It should like like the first or third strips do.

You'll still need to stop the enlarger lens down some more and probably get an ND filter for it, because you want to have enlarger exposures of 10s or more on a properly exposed negative. Adjustments in development time will not save you from too-short exposures in the enlarger. Your K100 negs look pretty nicely exposed.

 

[mryoda]

Hey!
I am not sure the extra fix did make a difference ?
have a look (Ignore dust dirty scanner)

 

[polyglot]

Still looks very dark. Maybe the film was fogged (exposed to some light) ? If the edges are dense compared to the other rolls, then there was a problem with it.

 

[mryoda]

Thinking about it,
i developed that roll in a Patterson System 4 and the grey inner ring crumbled
so we did open the bag to add another ring, i thought we still had it sealed as we
kept a tight line in the bag ?

Since then i have been using Patterson "Super" System 4, but the inner lid is sloppy
and doesn't feel locked sometimes.

 

[MattKing]

Thinking about it,
i developed that roll in a Patterson System 4 and the grey inner ring crumbled
so we did open the bag to add another ring, i thought we still had it sealed as we
kept a tight line in the bag ?

Since then i have been using Patterson "Super" System 4, but the inner lid is sloppy
and doesn't feel locked sometimes.

myroda:

I have had the red "ring" on one of my Patterson "Super" System tanks partially detach. That allowed the inner lid to release from the lock when I didn't want it to.

A small amount of glue re-attached the red ring, and solved the problem.

 

[mryoda]

Hi Matt,
I will go and check that in a bit,
I have only 1 Super tank and 4 normal system 4.
Trouble is even with a decent grey ring the normal system 4, the tanks leak when doing the agitation
Its not much but a leak nevertheless
I will definalty check the "Super" tank because it is sloppy,

 

[mryoda]

Well again its my novice skills or even lack of them lol
I didn't realise that in the Super System 4, when you turn the inner
lid, it has a lock in it to stop it being sloppy, it go's to the end and then a bit more to click into place.
well it seems i missed it

You know i am suprised i have even got a print on paper from this very jubious start lol