Warning!!
Handling a Hassy can be hazardous to your bank account!!
Proceed with Caution!
Steve
Well - I beg to differ, I guess. It seems to be one of the cheapest systems to purchase used... especially lately - more than almost anything else I've looked at. Comparable to Nikon equipment. You should be able to get a full kit in excellent condtion for less than USD 500.
Not on this planet you don't....
Not on this planet you don't....
Well - on the planet they call ebay - you DO. Hassy prices have been dropping like a ROCK. A few years ago I got my 500C/M body with a back for $260... and a 100mm/3,5 Planar for $290. Granted it was probably an exceptional deal at the time... but now it's not uncommon at all. The prices are there if you actually look.
EXAMPLES:
500C/M Body: $94
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-500c...18QQihZ017QQcategoryZ3351QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
500C/M Body: $155.27
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-Chro...92QQihZ001QQcategoryZ3351QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
500EL Body: $80.99
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-500-...36QQihZ017QQcategoryZ3351QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
80mm/2,8 Planar: $162.50
http://cgi.ebay.com/HASSELBLAD-PLAN...7QQihZ016QQcategoryZ30073QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
150mm Sonnar w/hood & focus grip: $286
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-150m...QQihZ010QQcategoryZ106876QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
A12 Back: $39.95:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-A12-...9QQihZ018QQcategoryZ29973QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
You could have assembled a complete (and relatively modern) 500C/M system out of these components for 94+162.50+39.95 = $293-ish by my reckoning.
What you don't seem to realize is that once you jump to the 503CXi (or similar) and the more modern comparable lenses the prices take a major jump.
Also, remember, there is a major price difference in Hassey backs between matching S/N's (higher priced) and non-matching (lower priced).
Well - I don't think the thread topic was "getting into the 503CXi system" if I recall correctly (please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong). I think we're talking about getting a basic camera so we could shoot pictures. Anything "503CXi" or any other such fancy moniker is strictly for the 'fetishist' and it seems to me fair that the fetishist should be taxed as such. There's no RATIONAL reason to ever get into that, except to feed one's ego, such as it is.
It's still nowhere NEAR as bad as the more obscure rollei stuff, on average (is my point).
I would include the issue of matching back serial numbers in the 'fetish' category too. Zeiss, I'm sure you're aware, actually did a study on the matching serial number issue and found that it was completely irrelevant. It was just hype that hasselblad put out there to pressure consumers to buy new instead of used.
What you don't seem to realize is that once you jump to the 503CXi (or similar) and the more modern comparable lenses the prices take a major jump.
Also, remember, there is a major price difference in Hassey backs between matching S/N's (higher priced) and non-matching (lower priced).
I couldn't understand why people always say Hassy's handheld capability. People never use MLU? Yes, I know somebody will argue that we couldn't see anything after mirror locked up, however usually by then we already frame the picture and just fire the shutter right after MLU. I use 500CM and most of my hassy pictures don't need my quick reactions, so, low light is ok for me, 1/15 sec is also ok for me.
I couldn't understand why people always say Hassy's handheld capability. People never use MLU? Yes, I know somebody will argue that we couldn't see anything after mirror locked up, however usually by then we already frame the picture and just fire the shutter right after MLU. I use 500CM and most of my hassy pictures don't need my quick reactions, so, low light is ok for me, 1/15 sec is also ok for me.
I agree. Most of the time I'm using my Hassy on a tripod with cable release and MLU. Otherwise, if it's going to be a quick grab shot, I'll reach for the Nikon FM2n instead.
I concur with both of you!
Yesterday I took my Hassey out hand shooting. What a PITA! Juggling dark slides, lens covers, fidgeting with the shutter speed and aperture setting while checking the shoe-mounted light meter on a partly-cloudy day when the sun was playing hide-and-seek! And then remembering I'm supposed to also focus the damned thing!
I stuck it out - and likely have 24 shots of camera shake to show for my efforts. And all the while I fought a mental tug-o-war with myself as to why I didn't just grab the F5 from the car and fire away! :confused:
Most of the time you don't need to meter every shot. (there is another lengthy thread about this...). Then as Sparky says, leave the darkslide in your pocket. Actually I'm more inclined to leave the darkslide home and the lenscap in my pocket, but either method works.
After a bit of practice you'll get the hang of it... or perhaps not, and there will be another bargain Hassy in the classifieds
My first Hasselblad, which I bought and later traded off several years ago had a prism finder. The one I recently aquired only has the waist level. For me they are easier to work with with a prism. If your's doesn't have one, then you may want to consider it for your next major addition. I was looking around for one last night, and they are not even very dear if you don't want to be too picky about looks.
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