Maybe I'm crazy..........Hasselblads

[Sparky]

Warning!!

Handling a Hassy can be hazardous to your bank account!!

Proceed with Caution!​

Steve

Well - I beg to differ, I guess. It seems to be one of the cheapest systems to purchase used... especially lately - more than almost anything else I've looked at. Comparable to Nikon equipment. You should be able to get a full kit in excellent condtion for less than USD 500.

 

[Rolleiflexible]

I sold mine. Too big. Too loud. Too obtrusive. Too ungainly in the hand. Too complicated. Things jam. Give me a Rolleiflex TLR any day. Sanders

 

[JLP]

Gary, You are shooting 8x10 are you really going to be doing much MF anyway?
I came from MF (Hassy)and the next thing i had was a 4x5 it took a little while to get adjusted but my Hassy was used less and less, now i have an 8x10 and soon a 5x7 i am a little worried that the Hassy no matter how much i like it will be sitting in the backpack far to much.
Rethink if it something you really are going to use or if it is just cause a Hasselblad is well, as said before a Hasselblad.
Mine is not for sale ever, there is something special about it even just sitting in backpack.


jan

 

[yoong]

hasselblad

hello, this would be my first post actually.
with regards to a hasselblad, i recently dug deep into my bank account and bought myself a used 500c/m with the 80mm. contrary to what people say here, for me the camera is a joy to use.

why the hassy?
because i wanted something small, changeable lenses and film back. not many choices around when i wanted something of the above criterias.
it is light, compact (as compared to let's say a RB), simple to use (since basically it's a simple camera) and i use it for landscape but mostly for street photography.

the disadvantages would be the loud shutter (but doesnt really bother me, or the people around me), focusing ring a little hard to twist but the DOF scale is there so hyperfocal focusing is a breeze. and the prices of lenses/accessories are much more expensive to buy from where i come from.

but anyway, i tremendously happy with it and the only thing bothering me is how to think in square now

get it, you wont regret it.

regards.

 

[Richard Kelham]

Well - I beg to differ, I guess. It seems to be one of the cheapest systems to purchase used... especially lately - more than almost anything else I've looked at. Comparable to Nikon equipment. You should be able to get a full kit in excellent condtion for less than USD 500.

Not on this planet you don't....

 

[Antje]

Not on this planet you don't....

But almost! I got my kit (500C, 150/4 C, two A12 backs) for around 400 Euros off Ebay. Would have been cheaper if I had bought it at KEH, and it wasn't exactly a high-end kit. Still, I unpacked it, loaded film, and started shooting - and we intend to live happily ever after.

Needless to say, I added a 80/2.8 T* and a 50 C. And another magazine. And I'm bidding for a 250 T*... Argh. The Hassy tells me she wants that stuff so badly!

Antje

 

[Sparky]

Not on this planet you don't....

Well - on the planet they call ebay - you DO. Hassy prices have been dropping like a ROCK. A few years ago I got my 500C/M body with a back for $260... and a 100mm/3,5 Planar for $290. Granted it was probably an exceptional deal at the time... but now it's not uncommon at all. The prices are there if you actually look.

EXAMPLES:

500C/M Body: $94
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-500c...18QQihZ017QQcategoryZ3351QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

500C/M Body: $155.27
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-Chro...92QQihZ001QQcategoryZ3351QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

500EL Body: $80.99
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-500-...36QQihZ017QQcategoryZ3351QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

80mm/2,8 Planar: $162.50
http://cgi.ebay.com/HASSELBLAD-PLAN...7QQihZ016QQcategoryZ30073QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

150mm Sonnar w/hood & focus grip: $286
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-150m...QQihZ010QQcategoryZ106876QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

A12 Back: $39.95:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-A12-...9QQihZ018QQcategoryZ29973QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You could have assembled a complete (and relatively modern) 500C/M system out of these components for 94+162.50+39.95 = $293-ish by my reckoning.

 

[jstraw]

Viewfinder?

 

[copake_ham]

Well - on the planet they call ebay - you DO. Hassy prices have been dropping like a ROCK. A few years ago I got my 500C/M body with a back for $260... and a 100mm/3,5 Planar for $290. Granted it was probably an exceptional deal at the time... but now it's not uncommon at all. The prices are there if you actually look.

EXAMPLES:

500C/M Body: $94
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-500c...18QQihZ017QQcategoryZ3351QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

500C/M Body: $155.27
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-Chro...92QQihZ001QQcategoryZ3351QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

500EL Body: $80.99
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-500-...36QQihZ017QQcategoryZ3351QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

80mm/2,8 Planar: $162.50
http://cgi.ebay.com/HASSELBLAD-PLAN...7QQihZ016QQcategoryZ30073QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

150mm Sonnar w/hood & focus grip: $286
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-150m...QQihZ010QQcategoryZ106876QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

A12 Back: $39.95:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hasselblad-A12-...9QQihZ018QQcategoryZ29973QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You could have assembled a complete (and relatively modern) 500C/M system out of these components for 94+162.50+39.95 = $293-ish by my reckoning.

What you don't seem to realize is that once you jump to the 503CXi (or similar) and the more modern comparable lenses the prices take a major jump.

Also, remember, there is a major price difference in Hassey backs between matching S/N's (higher priced) and non-matching (lower priced).

 

[Sparky]

What you don't seem to realize is that once you jump to the 503CXi (or similar) and the more modern comparable lenses the prices take a major jump.

Also, remember, there is a major price difference in Hassey backs between matching S/N's (higher priced) and non-matching (lower priced).

Well - I don't think the thread topic was "getting into the 503CXi system" if I recall correctly (please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong). I think we're talking about getting a basic camera so we could shoot pictures. Anything "503CXi" or any other such fancy moniker is strictly for the 'fetishist' and it seems to me fair that the fetishist should be taxed as such. There's no RATIONAL reason to ever get into that, except to feed one's ego, such as it is.

It's still nowhere NEAR as bad as the more obscure rollei stuff, on average (is my point).

I would include the issue of matching back serial numbers in the 'fetish' category too. Zeiss, I'm sure you're aware, actually did a study on the matching serial number issue and found that it was completely irrelevant. It was just hype that hasselblad put out there to pressure consumers to buy new instead of used.

 

[copake_ham]

Well - I don't think the thread topic was "getting into the 503CXi system" if I recall correctly (please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong). I think we're talking about getting a basic camera so we could shoot pictures. Anything "503CXi" or any other such fancy moniker is strictly for the 'fetishist' and it seems to me fair that the fetishist should be taxed as such. There's no RATIONAL reason to ever get into that, except to feed one's ego, such as it is.

It's still nowhere NEAR as bad as the more obscure rollei stuff, on average (is my point).

I would include the issue of matching back serial numbers in the 'fetish' category too. Zeiss, I'm sure you're aware, actually did a study on the matching serial number issue and found that it was completely irrelevant. It was just hype that hasselblad put out there to pressure consumers to buy new instead of used.

Jeez...you always have to go for the juglar don't you?

What IS your problem?

You really should seek some help so you can find some peace with people.

 

[Sparky]

Sorry George! You know I respect you. I was just trying to make a point (singular though it was) -and, well... guess I was feeling pretty argumentative today!!! (oopsy!)

 

[Antje]

What you don't seem to realize is that once you jump to the 503CXi (or similar) and the more modern comparable lenses the prices take a major jump.

Also, remember, there is a major price difference in Hassey backs between matching S/N's (higher priced) and non-matching (lower priced).

Absolutely. However, a system that gets you started doesn't have to cost over 500 USD. I'm perfectly happy with my system. Although I'm sure I will end up buying newer lenses in the future when the Cs and T*s I have fail. That's why I firmly believe buying a Hasselblad will sooner or later lead to a significant investment - simply because the stuff is so nice and beautifully manufactured.
All my backs have matching serial numbers, btw.

Antje

 

[Richard Kelham]

Maybe things are different on planet UK. A quick trawl through current offerings on the Bay shows a 501CM (in good condition) for GBP720 – with nearly 9 hours to go. There is also a truly ancient 500C (with 12-on mag) with a starting price of GBP350 and a 503CW starting at GBP900, the last two with no bids yet, surprisingly enough...

Otherwise it's all bits and pieces.




Richard

 

[Sportera]

Ive been away for a while but thought I would interject my opinions.

I have a 500cm w/ 80cf and a 150 C (old silver lens). This combo is capable of first rate images and my choice for B&W portraits. With Hp5 I can handhold it in very low light levels.

The achilles heel is the cost of other gear. I would love a wide and super wide but they are simply still too far out of my price range. The older lenses are more difficult to focus and the new ones are still a bit pricy.

But having said that, the hasselblad system is one of the best on the market used or new. The system can be fitted to your needs and it has never failed me. I carry two backs, one with fast film the other with 100 speed film. When light levels diminish (and tripods are not an option) I switch to the faster film back.

 

[blueice]

I couldn't understand why people always say Hassy's handheld capability. People never use MLU? Yes, I know somebody will argue that we couldn't see anything after mirror locked up, however usually by then we already frame the picture and just fire the shutter right after MLU. I use 500CM and most of my hassy pictures don't need my quick reactions, so, low light is ok for me, 1/15 sec is also ok for me.

 

[PatTrent]

I couldn't understand why people always say Hassy's handheld capability. People never use MLU? Yes, I know somebody will argue that we couldn't see anything after mirror locked up, however usually by then we already frame the picture and just fire the shutter right after MLU. I use 500CM and most of my hassy pictures don't need my quick reactions, so, low light is ok for me, 1/15 sec is also ok for me.

I agree. Most of the time I'm using my Hassy on a tripod with cable release and MLU. Otherwise, if it's going to be a quick grab shot, I'll reach for the Nikon FM2n instead.

 

[copake_ham]

I couldn't understand why people always say Hassy's handheld capability. People never use MLU? Yes, I know somebody will argue that we couldn't see anything after mirror locked up, however usually by then we already frame the picture and just fire the shutter right after MLU. I use 500CM and most of my hassy pictures don't need my quick reactions, so, low light is ok for me, 1/15 sec is also ok for me.

I agree. Most of the time I'm using my Hassy on a tripod with cable release and MLU. Otherwise, if it's going to be a quick grab shot, I'll reach for the Nikon FM2n instead.

I concur with both of you!

Yesterday I took my Hassey out hand shooting. What a PITA! Juggling dark slides, lens covers, fidgeting with the shutter speed and aperture setting while checking the shoe-mounted light meter on a partly-cloudy day when the sun was playing hide-and-seek! And then remembering I'm supposed to also focus the damned thing!

I stuck it out - and likely have 24 shots of camera shake to show for my efforts. And all the while I fought a mental tug-o-war with myself as to why I didn't just grab the F5 from the car and fire away! :confused:

 

[Sparky]

I can't see any reason why you'd need to fumble... just carry it on a strap with the darkslide in your rear pocket - and leave the lenscap at home. No problem. Apart from the mirror slap - it should be nearly as good to use as a TLR.

 

[bdial]

Most of the time you don't need to meter every shot. (there is another lengthy thread about this...). Then as Sparky says, leave the darkslide in your pocket. Actually I'm more inclined to leave the darkslide home and the lenscap in my pocket, but either method works.
After a bit of practice you'll get the hang of it... or perhaps not, and there will be another bargain Hassy in the classifieds

My first Hasselblad, which I bought and later traded off several years ago had a prism finder. The one I recently aquired only has the waist level. For me they are easier to work with with a prism. If your's doesn't have one, then you may want to consider it for your next major addition. I was looking around for one last night, and they are not even very dear if you don't want to be too picky about looks.

 

[Sparky]

Personally, I prefer the WL over the prism - only because it results in lower-angle shots, which are more interesting and, well, a bit arbus-y or something for me. Also - I just LOVE groundglass images. It's like a living contact sheet.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I concur with both of you!

Yesterday I took my Hassey out hand shooting. What a PITA! Juggling dark slides, lens covers, fidgeting with the shutter speed and aperture setting while checking the shoe-mounted light meter on a partly-cloudy day when the sun was playing hide-and-seek! And then remembering I'm supposed to also focus the damned thing!

I stuck it out - and likely have 24 shots of camera shake to show for my efforts. And all the while I fought a mental tug-o-war with myself as to why I didn't just grab the F5 from the car and fire away! :confused:

George,

I should have just sent you my C330 with all three lenses, focusing hood, WLF, Porroprism and Paraminder rather than sell it to Samy's! You could have really learned about fiddle factor => that would have served you right. It was like using an 8"x10" without the fun.

Steve

 

[copake_ham]

Most of the time you don't need to meter every shot. (there is another lengthy thread about this...). Then as Sparky says, leave the darkslide in your pocket. Actually I'm more inclined to leave the darkslide home and the lenscap in my pocket, but either method works.
After a bit of practice you'll get the hang of it... or perhaps not, and there will be another bargain Hassy in the classifieds

My first Hasselblad, which I bought and later traded off several years ago had a prism finder. The one I recently aquired only has the waist level. For me they are easier to work with with a prism. If your's doesn't have one, then you may want to consider it for your next major addition. I was looking around for one last night, and they are not even very dear if you don't want to be too picky about looks.

I'll agree that the meter situation was a bit out of the ordinary yesterday. We had a constant march of puffy white clouds that kept playing havoc with the Sun. I just know they watched me meter at the classic Sunny 16 only to scoot over and cover things just as as I....

Oh, funny thing is, I started with the WL finder but got the PF thinking it would be easier! You know, more like my 35mm SLR.

I just may switch back. But then I have to figure out where to put the damned light meter!

Are we having fun yet? :confused:

 

[sienarot]

I've never had problems handholding my hassy. One of the big reasons why I bought one over some of the other 6x6 SLR alternatives was because of the lightweight.

 

[mcgrattan]

I don't have a Hasselblad but I do handhold my Salyut-C (which has similar ergonomics) most of the time. It's not a huge problem. Dark-slide in the back pocket, lens cap in the hip pocket. I usually just guess the exposure, but I usually have a small selenium light meter with me in case.

No mirror lockup, though.